2.9L Vacuum Diagram


my77cobra2

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i need a vacuum diagram for a 1987 ford ranger with a fuel injected 2.9L.....i cant find on online ANYWHERE....please....if you have one......post it....im in desperate need....im goin on a 700mi. trip to college an then to and from school/work......

here's whats happening on a cold start....

1. start the engine..... engine stalls... multiple times
2. finally once the engine is running... barely... the RPM's fluctuate up and down until the engine is warm....
3. if i try to drive while the RPM's are fluctuating... obviously the engine will stall.....
4. the engine does this for a good 5-10 minutes......

believe that this is a vacuum issue.... i could be wrong....

but PLEASE post...... tell me whats wrong.... and how to fix it
 


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holyford86

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you need to pull codes, or have someone do it for you. Without the info from the KOEO and KOER tests you are guessing.
 

my77cobra2

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ok great thanks.... but where do i get the code reader for my truck? obviously its OBDI and ery manufacturer has a different OBDI connector....
 

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my77cobra2

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Found The Diagram!!!!!

heres the diagram tht i ws lookin for:

[/URL][/IMG]
 
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heres the diagram tht i ws lookin for:

[/URL][/IMG]
I needed this diagram as well; thanks for posting it. But umm... for those of us less mechanically sound on older vehicles, could you please translate it into english? :D
 

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It's a pretty straight forward vacuum system. Which parts of it do you not understand?
 
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I just don't understand the abbreviations for all the components; there are some of them that I'm not familiar with. I grew up during the OBDII age, where everything is electric. Lol. Not that I don't love my old 86.
 

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Ah.

There isn't much on there that is any different in name or function than the OBDII parts. Just the air diverter.

FPR is the fuel pressure regulator. It's the round thing by the fuel line connections at the rail.

Man Vac is manifold vacuum, usually found on the tree.

EGR is the EGR.

EVP is the carbon canister by the LH headlight.

MAP is the sensor hanging off the firewall.
 
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Thanks for clarifying. I just started school up in Bessemer, AL in August; training to be a Ford technician. Still not an expert! Lol.
 

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My advice, go find something else to do for a career. Auto tech, especially at the dealership level is not worth it anymore.

You spend minimum two years to get trained to be the best on the market. Then you go get a job at the top of your field, and because you offer a premium service people complain that you charge a premium price (something I don't see anywhere else right now). Then you get under paid for the crap you have to deal with. I make $15/hour, plus I buy my own tools, I have to explain to people why their vehicle isn't broken, and it doesn't matter how much they paid or how unhappy they are, I can't change a normal characteristic of the vehicle. Now we have unskilled Subway workers, who don't have to spend thousands of dollars on the equipment they need to do their jobs but do get paid the same if they stand around doing nothing or bust their hump demanding to get paid the same as me.

Then, warranty sucks. You get less than half the time a job should pay to do it ever expanding requirements to prove it's covered under warranty that you don't get paid extra to meet and then people get upset with you when Ford declines to cover something under warranty because it looks like the customer damaged it.

Good cash jobs are drying up because the manufacturers are trying to make maintenance free cars, extending warranties, and if something major fails out of warranty people would rather just trade it in and get something else.

On top of all that, it tears your body up badly. I am not quite 28 and have a number of issues that are more appropriate to someone over the age of 60, all from work-related wear and tear on my body.

This just isn't the business to get into. Go be a lawyer or an accountant.
 

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Very helpful diagram! i was just squinting at the one in my chilton's book but it's tiny and you can't read any of the abbreviations because it's badly printed. :annoyed:

I have a question, though. I'm trying to figure out what the two vacuum hoses that go into the air box do. they're connected to some thing on the inside of the box. what is that?

reason being, I'm wanting to replace the filter with a round filter so it can breath better. I'm thinking i'll reattach the vacuum hoses and such on the new intake but i wanted to know what they do before i go dorking around with it.

I fix computers for a living. not trucks. Thanks for understanding.
 

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No tips on the air box question? Sorry if I'm asking a "noob" question. If anyone has a resource they can point me toward instead, I will gladly try to find the answer myself.


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adsm08

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Sorry, I'd would have answered two days ago, but I missed the thread being updated.

I am not 100% sure on the exact function, but as I understand it, it's a thermostatically operated vacuum switch for the air diverter.

There is a second intake duct down on the bottom of the box that pulls from a shield around the passenger side exhaust manifold in cold weather to help get the engine up to temp faster. This is in addition to the cold air ram that pokes up behind the grill.

I believe that the piece in question is part of the system that works the flapper to block or allow the hot air from around the exhaust to be used.

You won't need to worry about those lines if you switch to a hot air intake with a conical filter that deletes the factory box.

I switched to headers a few years ago and that also deleted the hot air setup. I have yet to notice a negative effect.
 

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That's great! I didn't know the truck was "intelligent" enough to switch between hot and cold air intake.
What's the recommended action for removing the vacuum lines? Plug the open port or leave them open? .....or is that last question unnecessary since the flapper assembly will also be removed.


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