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4.0 Bronco II headers?


Dunk67

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What headers will fit a 4.0 in a Bronco II? Specifically a '94 Ranger 4.0 into an '88 Bronco II, though I don't imagine that makes any difference.
 


BroncLander

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How's your tig welding? Could get a stainless kit, bolt the flanges on, and tack it to suit the application. Pull them back out and clean em up.
I've always wanted to do this. Problem is, I can't weld worth a crap
 

Rustbucket350

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Honestly I wouldn't bother. The factory manifolds are more than adequate but they did used to have some headers for 2-300 bucks. What really makes a difference is getting it to run right and having the sensors functioning properly. I can spin 32" mud tires in fifth with 3.73s and last time I checked the mileage it was 25 with burnouts and highway driving.
 
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bobbywalter

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Honestly I wouldn't bother. The factory manifolds are more than adequate but they did used to have some headers for 2-300 bucks. What really makes a difference is getting it to run right and having the sensors functioning properly. I can spin 32" mud tires in fifth with 3.73s and last time I checked the mileage it was 25 with burnouts and highway driving.

25 kilometers per gallon?
 

Dunk67

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How's your tig welding? Could get a stainless kit, bolt the flanges on, and tack it to suit the application. Pull them back out and clean em up.
Never tig, mediocre at mig but could probably make it work if I had to. I don't want to spend that amount of time on this vehicle though. I'll have plenty of time into building the 4.0 and probably more into wiring. Prefer exhaust not be a big project.

Any 4.0 headers for a Ranger up to 97 should work, the suspension was all the same…
The handful available for the 4.0 mostly look very similar shape, at least the ones that list truck/SUV application. JBA makes a stainless header, which would be preferable to have fewer rust issues. Not sure how I'd plug the EGR port. Unsure what application of the 4.0 had EGR but maybe it's threaded and I can figure a plug, or get whatever attaches to it and weld or clamp that closed.

Honestly I wouldn't bother. The factory manifolds are more than adequate but they did used to have some headers for 2-300 bucks. What really makes a difference is getting it to run right and having the sensors functioning properly. I can spin 32" mud tires in fifth with 3.73s and last time I checked the mileage it was 25 with burnouts and highway driving.
I have super crusty manifolds deeply pitted and broken off studs. I could drill out the studs, tap, and install new studs, blast and paint but I'd rather not spend that amount of time. If I'm buying new manifolds I may as well get headers if they're available. Every little bit helps.

Dorman and ATP manifolds are available but I'm highly skeptical of the quality, flow, and fit. I tried aftermarket manifolds when rebuilding my 7.3 IDI to save time on broken studs. They weren't even close to factory, no way to fit the turbo even if I made my own crossover pipe as there would be no room for the downpipe. ID on the manifolds was also a bit smaller than stock, finish rougher and passages had sharper turns than. Ended up returning them, after drilling and tapping for the thermocouple since they looked ok at a glance. Granted I can probably find serviceable 4.0 manifolds in a junkyard but here in the rust belt I'm likely to still end up dealing with broken studs.
 

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@Dunk67

Stainless, IMHO, is required in the rust belt, lol. I believe the EGR port is threaded, so ideally a stainless pipe plug would fix that. I believe 95-00 4.0s had EGR. I’m not sure if it was just part of the OBD2 changeover or if it was to meet tougher emissions or what. The basic motor is the same. I have a 95 4.0 in my 89 Choptop right now, I just pulled the upper intake, fuel rail and injectors, wiring harness, and exhaust manifolds. Between the manifolds and the upper intake the EGR was gone. Bolted my headers on and used my fuel stuff, wiring and upper intake that was from a 91 Ranger when I originally did my 4.0 swap.

Oh, and I hear you loud and clear on the often terrible aftermarket quality
 

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The egr port is metric threaded. Iirc m22x1.5 It's somewhere in my low buck race truck build when I put on headers.
 

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