84 2.8 won't stay runnin'

[acelcobra]

Hi y'all...fairly new to the group. I'm having some issues with my 84 2.8 BII. I just bought it last month and rebuilt the carb, 'cause it was leaking fuel and flooding. Put the carb on a few days ago and can't get it to idle. It fast idles for about 30 seconds and then dies. Try to start it again and I have to pump it several times while cranking. Idles again for 10 seconds and dies. Try to start a third time and it bucks and sputters. Some of the vacuum lines were blocked when I got it and I'm not sure where they go, so I left them plugged. The diagram on the radiator support is difficult to decipher. Also, I've heard of a "nutter bypass", is that a possible fix?
Any help greatly appreciated.
Ace

 

[Jorley]

As someone has already suggested in another of your threads, do the duraspark conversion if possible. It allows you to get rid of the POS feedback carb, computer, the wiring that comes thru the passenger side firewall,all the emissions crap and all but 4 vacuum lines(dizzy, PCV, brake booster and cruise control).

You can try adjusting the mixture screws. They are located at the front bottom of the carb. Screw them all the way in. Not too tight or you may damage the seats. Screw them out 1 1/2 turns. With the engine running, turn the screws, one at a time in/out until the engine runs smoothly.

You can check for vacuum leaks using carb cleaner. With the engine running spray it around the base of the carb and the vacuum lines. The sound of the engine will change when you find a leak.

 

[acelcobra]

Sorry...Duraspark conversion

I apologize if I keep repeatin', I just want to do this once. With the duraspark conversion, does the carb HAVE to be replaced? or can the old feedback carb work for awhile? Only ask this 'cause I just blew $50 on the rebuild kit then. Anyway, I guess that'll be the next part of the project. Another thing....Is there an easy way to tell if the water on my passenger side floor is coming from the cowl or the windshield?
Thanx in advance
Ace