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84 bronco II duraspark and carb conversion


mjr46

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If you think it runs good with the vacuum advance not hooked up you're going to love it once you get that done,too. Thee vacuum port you want to use is under the front of the carb near the mixture screws, it should increase vacuum as you accelerate. If you use manifold vacuum it'll advance at idle and steady cruise but the advance will drop out when you step on it or climb a hill.
yeah, i know , i actually already had the line plugged into the ported port just not plugged onto the vac canister on the distributor, i was working on putting the passenger side radius arm bushing tonight, gonna finish that job tomorrow :)
 


19Walt93

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235/55R16
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If you don't have time to do it right will you have time to do it over?
A 2.8 duraspark distributor is from the years when power wasn't as important as emissions compliance, you can probably improve it more by recurving the centrifugal advance. With the engine running, a timing light attached, and the vac hose removed and plugged, slowly raise the rpm's while watching the timing advance. For best performance you want the centrifugal advance all in by around 3000. I'll bet it isn't, my 77 Mustang distributor wasn't all in until 4500 rpm's. The centrifugal advance mechanism is under the breaker plate and you can tune it some without a teardown. There is a rectangular hole in the breaker plate( not really a breaker plate but it's what the stator bolts to) and with the distributor rotated by turning over the engine you can see the tabs that anchor the springs. One spring will be fairly stiff and ride loose on the tab, the other is lighter and should be at least slightly under tension. If you bend the tabs in the direction that loosens the springs it will advance faster, I'd try just the tab with the stiff/loose spring first. Go easy, one tab at a time, a little at a time. You can see the hole in the attached picture.
Scan_20191207.jpg
Scan_20191207.jpg
 

mjr46

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A 2.8 duraspark distributor is from the years when power wasn't as important as emissions compliance, you can probably improve it more by recurving the centrifugal advance. With the engine running, a timing light attached, and the vac hose removed and plugged, slowly raise the rpm's while watching the timing advance. For best performance you want the centrifugal advance all in by around 3000. I'll bet it isn't, my 77 Mustang distributor wasn't all in until 4500 rpm's. The centrifugal advance mechanism is under the breaker plate and you can tune it some without a teardown. There is a rectangular hole in the breaker plate( not really a breaker plate but it's what the stator bolts to) and with the distributor rotated by turning over the engine you can see the tabs that anchor the springs. One spring will be fairly stiff and ride loose on the tab, the other is lighter and should be at least slightly under tension. If you bend the tabs in the direction that loosens the springs it will advance faster, I'd try just the tab with the stiff/loose spring first. Go easy, one tab at a time, a little at a time. You can see the hole in the attached picture.View attachment 34377View attachment 34377
thanks for the info...i appreciate it.......i may mess with it in the future, i hooked the vac advance up this morning and finished the radius arm bushing and took it for a drive, ran the best it ever has in 10 years, this b2 isn't even tagged, it just plows my community i live in and if i have to take it down the road to my moms to plow her driveway i just run a dealer tag as i'm in the business......heck, how bad it ran for the last 3 years, i didn't trust going around the block. one last thing to do is install the new spacer plate that'll be here monday for the vaccum leak it has then fine tune the choke.....got that set to loose, didn't come on this morning.....hopefully this evening i'll hook the plow back up and work on a few leaks that it has, and post some pics :)
 

19Walt93

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3"
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235/55R16
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If you don't have time to do it right will you have time to do it over?
If the choke didn't come on make sure the cap isn't getting power with the key off.
 

mjr46

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If the choke didn't come on make sure the cap isn't getting power with the key off.
it's not, it's hooked up to one of the wires on the back of the alt that, only has power with key on......choke didn't come on because i had rotated it way back because when it came out of the box they had it adjusted so it almost never came off, so i dialed it way back so as to not idle at 2500 on start up, i just need to readjust it all and fine tune it.
 

mjr46

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34651
 

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mjr46

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mjr46

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mjr46

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mjr46

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so above are what it all looks like, she's not pretty, but it gets the job done and runs 100 percent better after the conversion!!!
 

mjr46

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UPDATE: small storm rolled through today and had a whopping 1.5 inches, enough that i had to scrape our community road off and salt....we have large hills, but the B2 performed flawlessly........best it's ran in years!!! conversion was well worth it!!!
 

19Walt93

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Location
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Ford Ranger
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V8
Engine Size
351
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Drop
3"
Tire Size
235/55R16
My credo
If you don't have time to do it right will you have time to do it over?
Ford guys aren't supposed to be surprised when they run right.
 

mjr46

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no, we're not....but when you buy a cheap china 75.00 carb.........you expect it to have issues and not work, but this surprised me at how well it runs and works with very little adjustment.......this has breathed new life into this truck!!! :)
 

RobbieD

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Toonces drives a Ranger . . . . just not very well.
Thanks for the pics. You did a good job with the conversion, and I like your B2; bet it makes a good plow truck.
 

19Walt93

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V8 Engine Swap
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Location
Canaan,NH
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
351
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Drop
3"
Tire Size
235/55R16
My credo
If you don't have time to do it right will you have time to do it over?
Change the inline fuel filter please, that thing's as dark as a politician's soul.
 

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