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87 Ranger 2.9 stroker (210 ci/3.5 L)


TheChimera

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So I have an 87 XLT 2WD that is nearing the end of its engine life as far as I can tell. Been nursing it but not sure how long after winter it has. In planning for its overhaul, I've decided to pursue a 3.5l high compression V6 OHV. Using the FRPP engine dimensions, looks like a 4.0l crank, 3.0l Vulcan con-rods and 2.8l .030 flat top pistons will net a 3.320" stroke and 3.670" bore and approximately 10.5-11:1 compression. I picked up the pistons, crank, bearings and one rod to test fit and they look like they should all work together sizewise. Need to clearance the piston skirts a bit for the crank throws, but all of the components mate nicely. Can spin the rod on the journal several times with one finger. I'll see what the block needs after the engine passes on and I yank it out.
Putting all the parts values into DynoSim engine software, with the Camcraft 252/256 cam and free-floated rocker arms, the engine should make 227 hp @5k and 300lb-ft @ 2.5k. Also should make over 200lb-ft from idle up to 5500 rpm and over 170 hp from 3000-7000.
I plan on backing this with an M5OD and BW1354/50 doubler, sent to D44/9" axles running 35/10.5/15s. Will be installing 4.0l clutch and eventually rear discs. Also 2" thick radiator and remote mounted oil filter and cooler.
So my question goes: Has anyone attempted this kind of homebrew stroker and if so, how long did it last? Also, does anyone have actual measurements on the deck height for the 2.8, 2.9 and 4.0l engines? The FRPP info says they have the same deck height, but that doesn't seem right as the 4.0l stroke is so much longer than the 2.9. Way too much to be taken care of with wrist pin height and rod length adjustments.
And before any of you say it, I WANT to stick with the 2.9. Not swapping. Be about the same price, but I won't have to monkey around with harnesses and adapters or worry about the health of the donor motor. And it'll be a true sleeper if the engine still looks like an old beat up 2.9. :icon_thumby:
 
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Jsommers

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Sounds cool! Build it and take lots of pictures. Id love to see how it does when its all done.
 

BabyBronco89

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Yeah I'm pretty sure the 2.9 n 4.0 blocks are the same casting, 4.0l just has a bigger bore, I've put the two side by side, n you can't really tell the difference


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TheChimera

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Brown paper packages tied up with string...

Parts ordered. About to be one happy guy in the next few days. Every single part for the rebuild is one its way. Now just need either the cold or the motor to break and the project can get started. :yahoo:
 

TheChimera

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So, just realized that my new engine combo will be needing a new tune. Was thinking of grabbing 4.0l fuel rail, tank and pump from a local source, but should i grab the EEC while i'm at it? And could i splice the connectors or would i need the whole harness? If the tune is setup to run a 4.0, it shouldn't have any problem fueling a slightly smaller engine. My concern is the 2.9 sensor signals may not be understood by the 4.0 PCM. Advice?
 

dangerranger83

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Will be watching this. Since you are using a block with a dizzy, maybe find a v6 computer and harness close to the size this will be and go from there, like 3.8. You can the 4.0 tuned, a guy on here, think it's plum crazy, is doing a blown 4.0 in his ranger.

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TheChimera

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Big pile o' parts

So most of the engine components and ancillaries have shown up. :icon_thumby:

First picture is what I'm starting with. A 1987 2.9L Cologne V6 somewhere between 182340 and dead. The odometer works when it feels like it, so the mileage has only increased by 2k in the last two and a half years.

Second picture is the parts laid out. 4.0l clutch, fuel pump and filter, 2.8l flat top pistons with rings and pins, 3.0l connecting rods and bearings, 4.0l crank (not pictured), timing chain set and tensioners, fittings for -10AN oil cooler, head bolts, pushrods, tail light harnesses to convert to Gen 3 LED assemblies, motor mounts, radiator hoses, radiator cap, 180* thermostat, oil pump and pickup, freeze plugs, camshaft bearings, gasket set, oil pump intermediate shaft, new battery terminals, GlowShift oil temp and fuel pressure gauges and 8 circuit fuse panel. Also waiting to be installed but not pictured are a 2.75" core aluminum radiator, aluminum oil cooler, 4.0l flywheel, 20W CREE LED spotlights, 1100W Jensen amp, 2.0F capacitor, 170 amp Motor City Reman alternator, second battery (isolator already installed underhood), oversized intake and exhaust valves, lifters, fuel reservoir and lines, heated leather bucket seats, custom console and a whole lotta fuses, relays, switches and wires.

The third pic is a bit of whimsy, got tired of my old beat up grill badge. *adult content*

Fourth picture is the connecting rod fitted to the crank. Had to file ~.1" off each side to get the BE thickness down to the throw width of .8205" with a side clearance of .003.

Now to twiddle my thumbs till the weather gets back up above -40*. :annoyed:

But after the engine comes the drivetrain. :D Full width D44 SAS, 9" rear, EB lift coils, extended shackles and blocks, Posi rear, Spartan locker front. Then grab driveshafts and a 4x4 trans and TC, and the operation will be complete. For at least a day or two. :p Rear disc brakes one day?...
 

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TheChimera

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Update

So, it's been a while since the last update on this project.
As of right now, the engine has been stripped down, degreased, measured, painted and honed. The 2.8L pistons fit perfectly in the bores, so all that was needed to refresh the cylinders was a few passes with the Flex-Hone. The crankshaft fits nicely in the block, minor clearancing is needed near the oil pan rain to clear the connecting arms and middle counterweights as they swing. The crank timing sprocket needed to be notched to fit over the woodruff key (the 4.0 and 2.9 sprockets are one tooth different, but didn't feel like taking chances), but the original pulleys will fit. After I file down the rest of the connecting rods to fit the journals, the reciprocating assembly will be sent out to be balanced.
The heads will need to be opened up to piston diameter as the current dry runs have near zero deck height with the head gasket on. So those will be brought to school and touched up with the mill. The upper and lower intake manifolds have been gasket matched and received a port/polish. The heads will also be getting this treatment. The valve seats will need to be opened up to accommodate the oversized valves. The lifters will be converted to solid lifters with the use of hardened washers and the the rocker arm shafts free-floated. The aim is increased head cooling and oiling, as many of the original passageways were clogged.
As for the electronic control side, I'll be contacting DIY Autotune for one of the standalone kits they produce. Having software, electrical and mechanical engineers in my immediate family will definitely come in hand in the next few months. :-D 24 lb/hr injectors should allow for any future upgrades, for instance perhaps a low (3-4 psi) turbo, which could compensate for altitude changes, as I do intend to take this truck to some fun places once it's back up and running.
Simultaneously, I've been working and adding 12 new circuits to the electrical system to allow future electrical additions without the need to splice into the existing harness. Also modified the bench seat into heated leather buckets and am constructing a custom center console to house the stereo upgrades, electrics and other things. After all this is done, the bed will be replaced with a 95-98 bed since I could not get the LED taillights to fit the '87 holes without significant modifications. And maybe then start working on mounting the D44 under the front end.
 

dragogt

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Stupid question but If the 2.8/9 and 4.0 blocks are the same why not use 4.0 heads??
 

TheChimera

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Simple answer: I don't have a set of 4.0 heads. However I have also read that the intake manifolds are not compatible and the ports don't look similar, so that could mean I'd need more than just the heads. Without a pair for comparison, I can't be sure. SuperSix Motorsports offers a set of heads for the 4.0, but the ports look slightly different. Further, IIRC the 2.9 had smaller combustion chambers than the 4.0, which will offset the material removed for piston clearance at TDC and help maintain the high compression ratio I'm looking for.
 

Twister

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Subscribed, very interesting build, can't wait to see how it turns out. Good luck
 

dragogt

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Simple answer: I don't have a set of 4.0 heads. However I have also read that the intake manifolds are not compatible and the ports don't look similar, so that could mean I'd need more than just the heads. Without a pair for comparison, I can't be sure. SuperSix Motorsports offers a set of heads for the 4.0, but the ports look slightly different. Further, IIRC the 2.9 had smaller combustion chambers than the 4.0, which will offset the material removed for piston clearance at TDC and help maintain the high compression ratio I'm looking for.
Ah ok that makes sense..
 

TheChimera

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Progress, in a sense.

So after months of balancing school, work and projects, some progress has been made on the truck and engine reassembly is not far off. Because of the length of this build, I figured while the engine is out would be a good time to repair some of the other issues on my Ranger. Namely, floor pans, cab corners, rocker panels and the entire seam at the rear base of the cab, where the back wall meets the floors. All of these sections suffered from considerable rot, mostly due to salty roads and years of field service in farmland. The first picture shows the new floor pan welded in (I believe this is now the strongest part of the truck :icon_welder:). The second is the audio system build which is finally about ready for final installation. The third picture is of the clearancing involved getting a 4.0L crank to swing 3.0L rods in a 2.9L block. Just some oil pan rail notches and thinning the dipstick guide boss. The fourth picture is the clearancing necessary on the cylinder walls themselves. It looks like a lot of removed material, however the notches were cut without bearings in the main bores, so having the rods just scrape the cylinders should give me a running clearance of roughly .060" when the bearings are installed. Fifth picture is the negative deck height the piston/rod package delivers; need to look into thicker or custom copper head gaskets. The sixth picture are the colors I've decided to use. Black graphite metallic block, titanium silver valve covers, timing cover and upper manifold, featuring red heads (personal bias). Finally, the last picture is a comparison shot of my modified intake runners to the stock ports. The entire intake tract has been port matched from throttle body to valves, so with the right camshaft this engine should be quite free-flowing. The amount of test fitting has slowed my timeline by a bit, however the reprieve from early snow has allowed work to progress longer than anticipated this fall. :icon_thumby: But things checked off the list so far;
- wire triple gauge cluster
- port/polish heads and intakes manifolds
- machine connecting rods to smaller crank throw width
- repair floorpan/crappy metal ; reinforce where necessary
- build/install/test audio system
- modify 60/40 cloth bench into dual heated leather bucket seats
- install replacement aircraft style 3 point seat belts
- build foam plug for custom fiberglass console
- build switch panels for off-road lights/inverters/winches/ etc.
- redraw wiring diagram and add 10 new circuits to body electrical
- begin construction of custom perforated steel mesh grille
- wire in hazard strobe lights
- install lockboxes/center console
- clearance engine block and cylinder heads
- clean/prime/paint/polish engine components

I'm sure there are other updates, but at this point it has become making little gains in one place to allow progress on some other section of the build. It would probably go much faster if I weren't working alone, but wah-wah-wah.
 

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jhammel85

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Looking good! Progress!

Sounds like you have rust in the same spots i do. Fun stuff isnt it?
 

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