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87 Ranger 2.9 stroker (210 ci/3.5 L)


bobbywalter

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so did you make it work.


or did common sense strike you like a lightening bolt?
 


TheChimera

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What common sense?

Been very busy for the past few months, so progress on the Ranger has slowed to a crawl. However I have built the free float valvetrain described in Sven's book, turned one cylinder sleeve to size, started on a second and built the blueprint and CNC program for the deck spacers. Should be able to use the equipment at school next semester to cut the spacers quicker than on a manual mill, but if I must...
Right now the engine is back in the truck getting the engine bay wired up to the MS3X and CDI, along with fabbing an intake that will work with the snorkel. It'll have to come back out to reassemble the engine, however that can wait till I have the parts done. Basically what I'm building are wet sleeves which will replace the original walls down to 1/2" above the main web, with three steps to be interference pressed into counterbores in the web and the the spacers, which should provide enough clamping pressure on the lower head gasket, a locating bore and a rigid collar at the deck surface to keep things from moving around. The spacers will be cut from 3/4" 514 T1 steel and the sleeves are lathe turned from 4.5" .500" wall DOM tube. After they are pressed in, they will be honed to what remains of the original walls, however they are long enough that the ring package and most of the skirt will not leave the sleeve. Thought I had more pictures on my laptop, will upload them as soon as possible. Some of the dimensions on the prints have been changed after doing more material strength math, mostly to equalize the steps inside the spacer c'bores to hopefully extend longevity. But that's the nature of R&D, I guess.
I know that I has been a bit of an ass on my previous posts, however this is the path that I am taking my build down and could do without the negativity. We each have our own visions of what we can make our respective trucks. Technical assistance is welcome, judgemental stuff not so much.
 

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TheChimera

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Pics

So here are some pics of the rocker arm shafts with spacers. Under oil pressure, they should be running .003-.005" oil clearance between any reciprocating parts, need to turn down the OD just a touch as they barely contact the spring retainers when assembled to the heads. Unfortunately, broke my spring compressor installing the valves to check fitment. :annoyed:
Couple other pics, including the engine on the stand and 2000Lm spots under the visor. Will be putting in a 20,000Lm spot/flood bar in the middle, if it stops raining this weekend.
 

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alwaysFlOoReD

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I just watched a vid on sleeves. In it they said that they aided cooling of the cylinders by cutting in slots on the part that is in the water jacket. Creating more surface area to transfer heat.
PS, I like the duct work....
 

TheChimera

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Meh, the duct work is more of a stand-in so i can route cables and such. Plan on making a better intake tract and box next semester in the welding shop (need access to a TIG welder). I had debated putting in radiused grooves, may still. The sleeve walls right now are .060" thicker than the existing cylinder walls, which is going to negatively effect the cooling system capacity. Hopefully the spacers will offset that a little bit.
Thoughts on straight knurls to increase surface area? Just don't feel like taking more metal off the sleeve OD.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Knurls would increase surface area.
And I figured the duct work was temporary. I just thought the dichotomy was priceless, lol.
 

Flat_Bottom

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I am not engine builder so I have no advise to share. BUT I will say that I too am one of the types that would rather build something than buy it. You sir, seem to be doing both. It looks like you have done a great job thus far and I cant wait to see the end result. Keep up with the great progress.
 

TheChimera

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Head sealing

I could turn the cylinders down a dozen or so thou, and get it back with knurling, just need to go slow cause the wall thickness is around a quarter inch for most of the bore. How would you suggest sealing the spacer to the block? I was thinking of cutting the fire control ring out of the head gasket to the sleeve OD. Would silicone be easier, since the plate is fairly rigid? I'm leaning towards getting a custom ARP set of head studs. What if I could find threaded rod with properties similar to the head bolts? Grade 12.9 nuts.
 
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TheChimera

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I watched a vid of some sleeves with O-rings being installed, but the Darton literature I read said to go for an interference fit of ~.002". Would it be beneficial to put a set of rings at the main web interface in the original cylinder as a precaution, or would metal-metal be fine for this purpose?
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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This type of engine building is far beyond my knowledge. I'm sure there are people here with the knowledge but can't say if they will see this thread. There is another site I go to to learn skills and there is no bullshit allowed, they probably have a member with the knowledge you seek.
http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/index.php
 

dangerranger83

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This build is a good read this point so I will be following it.

300ft-lbs of torque will be impressive. I do say, while at this stage you plan on making it able to run e85 since it is cheap high octane fuel?
 

TheChimera

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Design changes

I'd like to just say quick I really appreciate ya'lls support on this project and the flow of ideas. And yeah, I've thought about running E85, since the MS3X is already hardwired to be compatible, but that $500 sticker on the sensor and its propensity to quit have tempered that urge a bit. Not ruling it out though...

After talking to a drivability tech I know, he suggested dropping the compression and running boost to minimize knock potential. Out of curiosity, crunched some numbers and checked some comp flow maps, it seems if one were to snag a pair of K04 turbos off the VW GTI, they would be able to keep the cylinders full up to fuel cut, around 6700 rpm. Was able to find some at a local yard for $75 each, so I'm not ruling it out. Should probably pick brains in the Forced Induction forum, but since this thread is already going...

Was also considering taking out the VVT cam phaser from a GM 3900 OHV V6 to get some dimensions, since this setup is going to require a custom cam anyway. The Ranger V6 and the GM 3900 cams are both chain driven, I'll measure the clearance behind the timing cover, but there's quite a bit. Would be a fairly simple matter of talking to the engineers and have them redesign the cam core with provisions to mount the phaser in the snout. Question is: Since the ECU that's going in can control VVT solenoids, including the vane actuator on the 3900, anyone have thoughts on the concept of a twin turbo VVT V6 in an old school Ranger? Gotta say, the idea of a bespoke engine makes the blood run south...

All pictures are of the 39000 cam phaser so you can see what I'm talking about.
 

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bobbywalter

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Location
woodhaven mi
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1988
Make / Model
FORD mostly
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V8
Engine Size
BIGGER
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
sawzall?
Tire Size
33-44
My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
well, if we were having a conversation in person you would easily infer my interest....and not being negative.


with full sleeves in wet style you have some potential, but making power with the little bit of structure you have to work with is pretty risky. i work on and rebuilt several styles of wet sleeve diesels, one 4404/5 jhon deere style i had considered for my ranger because its so ridiculously easy to work on and brutally robust. but not big on power.

the loss of coolant capacity i dont see as an issue at all with the sleeve size...as long as you can tune around the soak.


doing something just to do it because it has never been done before and you want to is living life to the max if it is truly what you want to do...


so do it.....get it done!
 

dangerranger83

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Boost...go on :)
 

Mightyfordranger

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Do more stuff I ran out of posts to read!!!!!
 

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