93 Ford Ranger Dana 44 Install


Jim Oaks

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6-inches
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33x12.50x15
Thanks for the update!
 


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evanesce69

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i have posited updated photos in posts 2 and 3... the center chunk on the bench and in the truck., photos showing how much to shorten the inner shaft

the shortened inner shaft is being sent to Moser for making a new one. also going to have CTM u joints put in the differential joint (1350 style) and the outer joint with new short stub
 

Jim Oaks

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1996 / 2019
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Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
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4WD
Total Lift
6-inches
Tire Size
33x12.50x15
Looking good. Thanks for the update!
 

evanesce69

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I've got the front end together. I'm going to resize all my photos so that I can post more pics. Had Moser Engineering make a custom length right inner shaft along with the left inner and both outer. That are all 4140 chromoly with CTM u joints installed (PNC144-1881).
 
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bobbywalter

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woodhaven mi
Vehicle Year
1988
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Engine Size
BIGGER
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4WD
Total Lift
sawzall?
Tire Size
33-44
My credo
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i am shocked one would not simply install the d44 ttb at normal width....ESPECIALLY using these quality brackets...you simply add a hole drilled inboard on the front bracket and the rear slightly re positioned with new holes in the k member to keep the max advantage of no custom parts install. shocked is definitely not overkill to describe it.




i plan to build another ttb truck with the intention to run it in the emc challenge as a 4600 vehicle if that competition still exists once competed. i caught flak for that among-st a group of peers i consult with.

i can see limiting the rbv to 4cyl and 6 cyl as fair, but i should be able to build whatever 4 or 6 cyl i want... my only issue originally was having to keep the cologne engine as i would rather run the cyclone....but the engine block and transmissions have to be platform origins....there is no boost or power adders allowed as these rbv were always n/a.

well i assumed it also had to stay ifs, and iirc it did initially and the rules i guess now allow any axles (have not looked careful at current rules)...just have to have leaf rear and coil front like the original platform.

so to use ttb in the eyes of my peers is stupid...links and coils on a 60 are the easy button.. so i will have to really have a look at the current rules.

though in any case i still want to run a ttb.





Please post a pic when you get your D50 chunk installed. On my '89 BII there was zero clearance 'tween the D35 chunk and the 6" drop bracket/pass beam assemblage. Much judicious grinding followed.

sounds like you have a drop plate...which actually can make swapping in a d44 ttb easier depending on your ride height goals and intended use.



I've got the front end together. I'm going to resize all my photos so that I can post more pics. Had Moser Engineering make a custom length right inner shaft along with the left inner and both outer. That are all 4140 chromoly with CTM u joints installed (PNC144-1881).
and this brings me to my reason to take time to post.

first thing....thank you for taking the time to document your choice of process. i do not mean to knock what you have done in any way. if it comes across as insulting it is not intended.

i assume you wanted max strength and to narrow it a bit if possible to keep the tires inboard as much as you could. i have done several variations of this over the years and prefer to be able to use easily sourced junkyard parts...especially axleshafts which i fawk up regularly.

you dont seem to be in for max travel and speed so i can see this working out good. but a trans yoke can really make a difference running the 1350 style joint for more engaged travel in the slip spline. the d50 is not made to move much in its leaf congiguration so the spline area is not too much if your running hard with long travel....

but the ttb 44 can be outfitted with rcv shafts...(which drew the fire on me) in the oem configuration as bolt ins. and regular shafts are still readily available for it...so the kick in the balls i was getting along with laughing and pointing was i can drive to the junkyard and buy/ bolt in a d44 for under 200 bux and no custom parts save for home mods to the pivots, and then spend 2 thousand on rcv axleshafts.... but the nice thing is junkyard shafts...easy to get and very cheap.


it makes sense to me:dunno::dunno:







your choice of taking the cheap and easy out of this scenario having to mod the axleshafts perplexed me...i even used all 3 of my brain cells:icon_twisted: last i looked to do that with all ctm with max travel setup exceeded 1300 for something i knew would break quickly if i was in a steering situation.....so 2 k for the rcv seemed a better way to go because they are stronger full lock steering then even the bad ass setup you have with wheels straight. of course if your under 600 then i would have to say that is fair way to go.



inboard coil mount on beam for better articulated travel on the trail or outboard the buckets for stability. if it is a long range driver/trail machine i would never use coilovers personally

the ol f250 shock tower mount on the frame and just do a mount on top of your radius arm like a normal ttb 150 to get the brake clear of your shock.


either way, its is really appreciated that all the ways to skin the cat are getting covered. i am not one to take the time. great work on this:icon_thumby:
 

evanesce69

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Bobby-

I had looked at the RCV shafts... if I have issues with these in the future that is the way I will go. I haven't done a lot of high travel situations so I stuck with the D50 inner stub and slip yoke. I did have the right side inner shaft made with extra spline length just in case... so the trans yoke is always an easy option. I didn't want to modify anything major like the drop brackets... so I chose to shorten the inner right had side... it was only $210... the rest was just a splurge because I have to get a new outter stub anyway... at that point it seemd dumb to "cheap out" on ujoints... Then I discovered the full circle clips for those CTM joints wouldn't work on a stock axleshaft.... so I had the left inner shaft made as well.

yeah... it's kinda like this... "Hey man, I'm gonna make this strong... it's only a few hundred bucks..." So I get into it and say well I've already done this so I have to do this now... and then i start thinking damn this is expensive... but I cant stop now! So I now have all alloy shafts and expensive ujoints... It was vicious cycle. As for your guess of $1300, it isn't that far off, a little lower but not by much.

I'm definitely gonna have to do something with the shocks though... it sure isn't fun pumping up the brakes every time I have to make a tight turn... I'm also gonna do something with the radius arms... with breaking in the front gears I removed the rear driveshaft and have been driving the last day or so on the front.... Alot of slop in there plus the clutch in the Auburn elocker is pretty tight... makes for some squirrelly driving. I'm thinking of moving the rear mounts out to make them parallel to the direction of movement or simply have longer radius arms made an move the mounts back a foot or so and add hemi joints... That'll reduce the angel a bit.

I've also looked at shock hoops and coilovers but don't have any experience with them. Why do you not recommend them for a daily driver... other than on a cost vs usage/performance basis?

ultimately I want to be able to lock the front in and be able to pull straight line all 4 tire with no issues... I'm building a 2.3 turbo stroker in the future and have gone through the drivetrain first... made no sense to me to put a lot of power under the hood on the stock parts... i'd break stuff the first time out...

most importantly, i REALLY appreciate your input on all this... and thanks for the compliments!!! By no means is any one person right on everything... I accept the constructive criticism openly. It helps to make a more informed decision.
 
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bobbywalter

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sawzall?
Tire Size
33-44
My credo
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ahhhh yes...the laws of incrementalism. hindsight usually is a kick in the berries...

i hope your setup is failure free, and unless your getting stupid it sure as hell looks as heavy duty one can get conventionally. i would wager your in great shape with this setup.












if you were using a oem readily available coilover, or did not mind purchasing and carrying a spare unit, coilovers are good and usually the best option performance wise.


i drive a ridiculous amount of miles and sometimes cross the country to go to work. so using parts that are readily available is my preference.


the later generations of builder parts and heim style joints have also come a long way and can work for many for steering and suspensions....but iprefer easily sourced parts.


if you use it....you will break it if your having fun at the edge..


hard to have fun unless your exploring limits.
 

evanesce69

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Took her to the beach over the weekend... Made over $200 pulling people out of the sand, donation only of course (cash, beer, soda, water, pizza, links...). Was axle deep in loose sand pulling cars, 2wd trucks, SUV's, broke 4x4 trucks... front axle spun both tires consistently even without the differential locked.... that is one tight limited slip in there (cone type) The true trac ran great too.

I walked through idling where other were blasting through and getting stuck, forward, reverse, turning around... it didn't matter... was like being on pavement

It was great!!!

I do need traction bars on the rear though... there were a few instance of wheel hope in reverse... I surely don't want to break the rear driveshaft because of bad angles on the ujoint.

I also need to upgrade my cooling and get a tighter clutch as well. Think I'm going to get a set of 35x12.5R17 Firestone Destinations... or the Mud Claws that I currently have... but 35's
 
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