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95-97 Ranger radiator options?


PlumCrazy

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I have searched for weeks with no luck.....I am looking for a bolt in 3 row radiator for a 95-97 Ranger with a 4.0.

Does anyone know of any place that makes/made them? I can find pre 95 all day long as well as 98+, but the newer rads are too wide and the older ones have interference issues with the intake tube and upper hose barb.
 


projectRanger93

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I have searched for weeks with no luck.....I am looking for a bolt in 3 row radiator for a 95-97 Ranger with a 4.0.

Does anyone know of any place that makes/made them? I can find pre 95 all day long as well as 98+, but the newer rads are too wide and the older ones have interference issues with the intake tube and upper hose barb.
Didn't find anything on Rock Auto? They seem to have a lot of options.
 

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I didn't realize there was ever an OEM 3 row. Plenty of 2 rows to go around, but I've never seen anything thicker than that.
 

black_demon69

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Try the OSC on rockauto it is a very thick 2 row it is just over 2 inches thick.

And yes I have 1 in my 94 w/4.0l
 

PlumCrazy

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Still looking....put a new 2 row in hoping that maybe my original was clogged or something, but no dice. Even with no thermostat and a 3000cfm electric fan I still run 210 and climb to 230 quick if I beat on it
 

fastpakr

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No chance it's a pump issue?
 

adsm08

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Still looking....put a new 2 row in hoping that maybe my original was clogged or something, but no dice. Even with no thermostat and a 3000cfm electric fan I still run 210 and climb to 230 quick if I beat on it
What pakr said.

I know you know what you are doing, but even towing up a grade both my 4.0s top out at 210. It sounds to me like there is a coolant flow problem.

Does running the heater bring it down any? Heater core is the top of the system, so cooling it should start a thermal siphon, and bring temps down a bit if there is a pump-related flow issue. If the block passages are just that cruddy well....


Also have you tried adding any sort of surfactant to the coolant? Those help break up the surface tension and lower temps.
 

PlumCrazy

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I put a new pump in when I built the engine. New hoses, added engine oil cooler, replaced rad, 3000 cfm 16' fan covering 3/4 of the rad , and coolant is nice even 50/50...

Issue is that its a 10:1 CR 4.0 pushing 6 pounds of boost at 2-3 mph.lol Next rig will be a huge bed mounted rad, but i was hoping for a short term solution.
 

bobbywalter

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how is the mid and total timing and fuel pressure/volume? that radiator should be close...


short term and long term is likely a 25x19 summit unit. less then 200 bux...

low speed loading is always an issue...with big tires and lift its like pulling a 3-4 k trailer behind you all of he time.

just discussing this in another thread....as ac makes it worse. it is why i open up the core and put a big fat bastard radiator in. big power needs big power cooling if it is actually being used.

i like having as much use of the bed as possible. and as much reserve cooling as possible. 29 to 33 wide x 17-18 tall overall dimensions have been fitted for turbo v8 trucks that cruise in southern heat with good success...

my radiator basically goes from headlight to headlight.... but idi diesels make stupid heat when worked. for your application if the winch is not already frenched into the grille/bumper for ideal approach angle, fitting up a 25x19 with the fan you have is likely a good solve and you can make enough room so you can swap out the water pump and work on the fead with ease....a little work is a win win win....
 

bobbywalter

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sawzall?
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what fan are you using?
 

PlumCrazy

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It's a Spal fan, fuel is perfect, idles 14.7 and runs 12.1 WOT

Mid throttle is 13-14 range. I had him tune on the safe side with timing.

I have a tubular core support already, but the frame width is my limiting factor.

I couldn't find a generic rad with a low enough inlet to clear my intake. The 95+ had the Barb 6" down on the right end tank
 

bobbywalter

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V8
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BIGGER
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Automatic
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4WD
Total Lift
sawzall?
Tire Size
33-44
My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
yeah...you would need a 17 or 16 high probably to cross over the rails......the 24x16 i would be skeptical....even with a intech fan.

12+ to one wot and 13-14 mid should be keeping the heads plenty cool...


there is a 24 x 19 uni as well.
 

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