96 4.0 Explorer XLT 4x4 Getting it back on the road

[Josh B]

Well I tore it down again today, at least to the lower intake manifold, all I need do to remove it is to pull the 8 bolts that are holding it in place.
I'm wondering though if I've done it for nothing because the lower intake manifold gaskets I've been seeing around are different than the ones I have.
The ones I have are two separate gaskets that would go on each side but not across the bottom as the others I've seen do, and I could mess up by pulling that intake before knowing for sure if the gaskets I have will even work.
I'm having to think no, because I see no way anything in my set would seal across the bottom

These are the ones I have

This is one that 97RangerXLT posted in his help thread
How to: replace valve cover gaskets, fuel rail gaskets and lower intake gaskets

I just don't see any way I can use the ones I currently have

 

[4.0blue98]

I think they will both work but the new design is a one piece. Seems like the one piece would be much easier anyway. I'd say you'll have to remove the lower intake to see how the current one mounts. May be a support under the manifold between the two sides that needs to be reused and sealed with RTV. I never got that deep into mine.

Personally I'd get the one piece.

Here's another writeup I found a while back. Can't even remember where I got it but they used the one piece too. Read the comments, there are some interesting ones in there.

 

[Bgunner]

I have seen where the intake gasket is a 4 piece total gasket. The two, like you have and 2 rubber slide on style pieces. This style you needed to put a small dab of RTV in the corners to seal it. Now I have never torn down your motor but wanted to let you know this is a style out there and because of this makes me wonder 2 things. First is your kit missing parts? And second if not then are you supposed to use RTV across the back and front as a gasket.

Wish I could be more help but the RTV across would seem to be the proper option here. Did they give you a tube of RTV? If so I would likely think this is the way it is done.

 

[Josh B]

Thanks a lot fellas(97RangerXLT also got back to me on his thread), at least I now know it's their design, however good or bad it may be. I've really gotten stuck here between a rock and a hard place, it's either put it back together(as is) and try finding a one piece gasket, or use these and see how long they last, I'm opting for the latter

I did go back to find the instructions, and although I cannot remember reading it before, probly just glanced over it then, and what it said didn't really stick at that time.

I had earlier considered using some Fel-Pro make a gasket I've had here for awhile, and still may use a single strip across there, and a double bead of silicone(plus the extra in each corner)

 

[Bgunner]

Personally I would just use the RTV and not add a gasket material in between them. It is not uncommon for these parts to be just RTV. I would do it as the directions state unless someone with more knowledge says to add it in. This part is not for air but to keep the oil inside the motor so a simple RTV gasket is enough since there shouldn't be much pressure.


EDIT: I would clean the bolts and have every thing prepped before applying the gaskets but that is just me thinking fore thought. It could take a while to clean and lube the bolts for proper torquing.

 

[Josh B]

EDIT: I would clean the bolts and have every thing prepped before applying the gaskets but that is just me thinking fore thought. It could take a while to clean and lube the bolts for proper torquing.

Thanks Bgunner, I'll do just that.
What would you lube them with? Motor oil? I generally use some anti-seize on bolts prone to the elements, rusted or seized, but haven't ever just oiled them.

Thanks a lot for your advice

 

[Bgunner]

They have assembly lube for the bolts but once cleaned I usually use https://arp-bolts.com/p/arpultratorque.php but this is what I have used. Others may recommend different lubes but the purpose of lubing the bolts is to allow the friction of crud on the the treads to minimal so the torque is accurate and not skewed by any odd crud or minor defects on the threads.

 

[Josh B]

I'll be having to do mine today and will need to use what I have available, which is basically limited to oil, grease, and some very old vaseline. Also things like Never-Seize. That ARP says diesel beside it, I also have some of that here
What about the fuel injector o-rings, what's good to use on those?

 

[Bgunner]

If you don't have the " proper " bolt lube put some motor oil on the bolt run them in and back them out and re-lube them and then install manifold. This will lube both sides of the threads, motor and bolt. This will get you to where you need to be.

Injector O-rings I have heard of using Vaseline but I usually stick my finger in a clean oil jug and cover the O-ring. the purpose of lubing these is so that then seat in the manifold properly and don't get hung up on sticky part of the hole keeping the o-ring from seating all the way in. This is why I just use motor oil, there is no moving part once installed, so it slips in to place without damage.

 

[Josh B]

After a rain day and a needed day off I got back into it today. Almost had it ready to dismantle, so finished that, tied the wires up where possible, and gave it a good swoosh of 150psi to hopefully dislodge any loose debris.

Here I've got it ready to take apart

The Fuel Injection Supply Manifold was a real rascal to wrestle loose so I suppose it's never been touched

Pulled the Valve Covers and Lower Intake, looks like an overly smoked duck in there

Not sure what to do with those coolant ports but after getting it back together I'll give it a good Seafoam treatment in the tank and(after acquiring the spray) in the intake.

Not sure how to clean those gasket surfaces, they're all aluminum and the last intakes I pulled were all cast iron
I don't think a sharp chisel would be the thing to use on aluminum :/

This is the lower intake after getting it off the motor

 

[4.0blue98]

Geez that thing looks pretty neglected. You can get plastic scrapers to clean the gasket surfaces. I guess some people may try some sort of scrubbing pad but the actual gasket mating surfaces don't look that bad. Might be worth a coolant system flush after you get it back together. The seafoam treatment might be a good idea but that's some serious crud in those ports. Might need a couple treatments to do much of anything.

 

[4.0blue98]

I didn't go back and read all the posts but you did change the plugs right? What did they look like? Any pics?

 

[Josh B]

I didn't go back and read all the posts but you did change the plugs right? What did they look like? Any pics?

I had put those in a different thread Blue, photos are on page 2 post 21

96 4.0 OHV Plugs and Wires

I'll try to get some pics of the plugs I remove. I think even Plats should be changed every 60-70k. I've been tempeted to try other types like Iridium but always like to use a stock type. I have a Sienna we bought brand new in 08. It's got Iridium plugs and the OEs were changed at 125k. The...

www.therangerstation.com

 

[4.0blue98]

Ahh yes I remember now. Those plugs look surprisingly good considering the crud in the intake ports.

 

[Josh B]

It was running like a top till I replaced the plugs and wires :/

Figured I had leaned on it a bit to heavily while trying to wrestle those things in and out of there and disturbed the old gaskets.

Fact is the gaskets all seemed to been very well attached.

Did only the upper intake last week and it seemed to helped a bit but not nearly enough