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97 2.3 4x4 swap


3ncrypt3d

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Been wanting to 4x4 swap my ranger for a while. Before anyone tells me to sell it and buy a 4x4 one, I have a lot of emotional attachment to this vehicle.

What I understand I need the crossmember from a 4x4 one. I have a 4 inch lift kit on mine right now, so would that solve that problem?

I know 4 cylinder 4x4 transmissions are hard to come by, but a buddy has a 98 V6 4x4 transmission. Could I disassemble the two of them and swap the gears and shafts to mine? Both are transmission code M. Also both are manual transmissions.

Also, my rear end has 4.56 gears. I read that the TTB 4x4 uses reverse cut gears. I couldn’t immediately find any online, at least for a Dana 28 or Dana 30. I’m sure if I dig more I can find them, but does anyone know where I could find a set?

Lastly, wiring. This is the part I’m most concerned about. The trans my buddy has is electric shift 4x4. Manual shift would be a lot easier, but I can’t seem to find any at the local JY, or online.

edit: should add I’m fairly mechanically inclined, so I have no worries to do this. The only thing I don’t have/can’t do is a welder and welding. So any process to make this as bolt in as possible is definitely wanted.
 


adsm08

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Engine cross member: Your lift kit won't solve a thing because it isn't just a clearance issue. The 4x2 crossmember slings down lower, but the 2wd axle beams slip into pockets on the front and back of the crossmember, while the 4x4 beams attach to drop brackets that come out from the bottom of the crossmember. Just drilling the holes for attaching the brackets isn't a good solution either because the geometry of the piece is all wrong.

Swapping the crossmember without welding is similarly to be considered a non-viable option. It needs to be welded to the rails to give the frame proper stiffness. In addition to that there is another plate on the frame that covers some of the attaching rivets that have to be removed, and one of the larger existing welds that need to be cut. This plate gives the steering box a place to mount, and is held on by two welds, one top one bottom, each about two feet long. These welds have to be cut and this piece removed to remove the engine cross member.

Welding these pieces to the rails, and having them welded in well and correctly is non-negotiable. This is a major safety issue, and if done incorrectly can and will make your truck undriveable, unstable, unalignable, and a few other unpleasant things.

Transmission: You don't want his gears if he has a 4.0 truck. If your prospective donor has a 4.0 you want to use all the guts of your existing transmission and put your speed gears on his output shaft, then put if back in your case. If your donor has a 3.0 it is much easier/faster to just swap all of the guts over to your existing transmission case and then install the extension housing.

Gears: Look for gears from a Dana 35. I don't think 4.56 gears were made for the 28 because the diff chunk is too small to handle them. TTB Rangers never had a Dana 30. The Dana 35 has had 4.56 gears made for it, and if you can score an axle from 95-97 you get the better brakes too.

Wiring: GFL. You will need to sit down with the wiring book from a 97, review what all is involved in the 4x4 system, and add the appropriate parts and circuits to your truck. You may need to get ForScan and do some tweaking of the software in existing modules, or replace the PCM outright with one for a 4x4. I am not sure of the specifics of this part of the swap, but a manual transfer case would be much much easier. You should be able to use any unit from 1991 up, so try broadening your search parameters. You do have a complete donor with a full working system, so you may have everything you need, but I don't know how much the 98's architecture will differ, or how involved other modules may be in the ESOF 4x4 system.

Other thoughts: I understand doing tons of ridiculous and unnecessary work to get a single option you want on a truck you are attached to. I also understand the philosophical issues of combining trucks.

The only way to make this swap a bolt-on affair and have no welding is to swap frames with a 4x4 truck.

Have you considered a solid axle swap? It won't be no welding, but it may be less welding.

Do you know anyone who welds? I don't weld myself, but I have a few friends who do. I was able to get my engine crossmember welded in, a hole in my frame patched, and a few body mounts rebuild for the price of a CO2 keg for a kegerator.
 

4x4junkie

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The only way to make this swap a bolt-on affair and have no welding is to swap frames with a 4x4 truck.
This.

In this instance, if it were me, I'd do the SAS.
 

RonD

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Yes, solid axle swap(SAS) would be the way to go

4x4 is not an "option" on Rangers, the assembly line doesn't just start installing front axles and transfer cases on a Ranger, like they might with power window doors

A Ranger is a 2WD or a 4x4, by the frame it starts off with, just FYI, most 4x4s are this way
Which is why people recommend selling a 2WD and buying a 4x4
 

scotts90ranger

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yeah, I was lucky enough to find a 4x4 frame that was on an identical truck (only a few months apart really) and that was an easy swap for a newb to mechanicing... If it were now I'd consider a D30 SAS or just go all out like I'm going to do on my Explorer and go silly with a D44/D50 TTB hybrid...
 

scotts90ranger

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I will add that for wiring, I'd consider a "Shiftster" if they are still a thing, or I've considered making a cable go into the gear with some detents...
 

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