98 Ranger problems after over heat


LeeAlexander93

New member
Joined
Jun 23, 2019
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Houston Texas
Vehicle Year
1998
Make / Model
Ranger xlt 2.5L
Transmission
Manual
Sorry if I make any mistakes posting or replying, this is my first time on a thread.

I have a 98 ford ranger 2.5L 4 cylinder with a manual transmission. Just before I got home my truck shut off on its own. I started it back up with no red flags on the gauges. I got across the bridge and it died again. I started up and pulled into the gas station. Popped the hood and it was smoking and could smell the burnt coolant. I was 1 mile from the house so I decided to putt home. On the way home my gauge was reading hot. I feathered the throttle all the way home keeping it off the red line. I had the heater on as well for emergency relief and I was getting cool air out the vent.

Repairs made prior to the first start up:
My initial thought was thermostat and water pump. Repairing those I noticed my timing belt was rotting so I broke her down more and changed the timing belt. During the whole process I triple checked my timing to eliminate that as the problem.

Current running issue:
Idle is great and my top end is great. But I’m having acceleration hesitation from a dead spot. I’m not throwing a code at the moment since I haven’t drove 25 miles after disconnecting the battery.

Trouble shoot as well as additional repairs:
Initially I bought new spark plugs and wires but i didn’t want to throw everything I had at it at first before I ran it after the water pump and thermostat repair. Prior to changing the plugs I changed the coil pack on the exhaust side because of a assumed bad connection. We still remained to have the same issue. I have now since changed the other coil pack as well as replaced the spark plugs and wires. The only other thing I trouble shot was the Mass air flow sensor by unplugging it during idle as well as throttling from the dead spot. Unplugging the MAFS immediately almost kills the engine before it recalibrates and picks right back up. To me that tells me the MAFS is not the issue.

The only thing I haven’t changed is my heater core or my radiator besides just a basic flush.

As it runs I have no signs of knocking or bad shaking. It doesn’t seem like I’m dragging a piston either. On the initial start up before the plugs and all it did seem to have a slight tick or knock but with in 30 seconds it was gone. Now that noise is almost intermittent. Thinking about it, it might do it from a cold start. Anyways that is where I’m at, any thoughts or opinions would be much appreciated, thank you.
 


Rock Auto 5% Discount Code: 248EE46702D889 Expires: October 1, 2019

Denisefwd93

Well-known member
Joined
May 20, 2015
Messages
2,230
Reaction score
53
Points
48
Location
South East PA
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
stock, may get leveling springs in front "somday"
Tire Size
235
Check the cat converter, when they are blocked they cause a real overheat in the exhaust system but not necessarily the engine which could be why you didn't get any indications on your gauges that it actually happened to me!
 

LeeAlexander93

New member
Joined
Jun 23, 2019
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Houston Texas
Vehicle Year
1998
Make / Model
Ranger xlt 2.5L
Transmission
Manual
In order to check that I’m assuming I need to get a gauge and check the back pressure in the exhaust system. If that’s the case I need to get my hands on a gauge and check back once I’ve tested. Thanks for your speedy response!

Update as well: I’ve put 32 miles on the engine and still no code. (Which I should because I had a code prior from my egr valve I had already replaced hoping to clear it, along with the.. sensor..? But I do have one stray wire hanging from the connector so I assumed that may be the issue) Before I changed plugs I was jumping around through first and second as my rpms built up. Since the spark plug replacement that jumping is gone. Now I just have a slight hesitation in my lower end. For example if I get up to 50-55 in fourth and go to fifth with my rpms up I can stay steady in 5th unless I back off the throttle any. If I do I have to get back in 4th bring my rpms up and get back into 5th. Thanks again, I figured the more detailed I am the better.
 

LeeAlexander93

New member
Joined
Jun 23, 2019
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Houston Texas
Vehicle Year
1998
Make / Model
Ranger xlt 2.5L
Transmission
Manual
I changed my cat converter out and I owe you a huge thank you. It fixed the issue! I got the power back in the low end. Thanks again!
 

Denisefwd93

Well-known member
Joined
May 20, 2015
Messages
2,230
Reaction score
53
Points
48
Location
South East PA
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
stock, may get leveling springs in front "somday"
Tire Size
235
Congratulations! They are very overlooked
 


Top