Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and LeeAlexander93
New Member
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2019
- Messages
- 3
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 1
- Location
- Houston Texas
- Vehicle Year
- 1998
- Make / Model
- Ranger xlt 2.5L
- Transmission
- Manual
Sorry if I make any mistakes posting or replying, this is my first time on a thread.
I have a 98 ford ranger 2.5L 4 cylinder with a manual transmission. Just before I got home my truck shut off on its own. I started it back up with no red flags on the gauges. I got across the bridge and it died again. I started up and pulled into the gas station. Popped the hood and it was smoking and could smell the burnt coolant. I was 1 mile from the house so I decided to putt home. On the way home my gauge was reading hot. I feathered the throttle all the way home keeping it off the red line. I had the heater on as well for emergency relief and I was getting cool air out the vent.
Repairs made prior to the first start up:
My initial thought was thermostat and water pump. Repairing those I noticed my timing belt was rotting so I broke her down more and changed the timing belt. During the whole process I triple checked my timing to eliminate that as the problem.
Current running issue:
Idle is great and my top end is great. But I’m having acceleration hesitation from a dead spot. I’m not throwing a code at the moment since I haven’t drove 25 miles after disconnecting the battery.
Trouble shoot as well as additional repairs:
Initially I bought new spark plugs and wires but i didn’t want to throw everything I had at it at first before I ran it after the water pump and thermostat repair. Prior to changing the plugs I changed the coil pack on the exhaust side because of a assumed bad connection. We still remained to have the same issue. I have now since changed the other coil pack as well as replaced the spark plugs and wires. The only other thing I trouble shot was the Mass air flow sensor by unplugging it during idle as well as throttling from the dead spot. Unplugging the MAFS immediately almost kills the engine before it recalibrates and picks right back up. To me that tells me the MAFS is not the issue.
The only thing I haven’t changed is my heater core or my radiator besides just a basic flush.
As it runs I have no signs of knocking or bad shaking. It doesn’t seem like I’m dragging a piston either. On the initial start up before the plugs and all it did seem to have a slight tick or knock but with in 30 seconds it was gone. Now that noise is almost intermittent. Thinking about it, it might do it from a cold start. Anyways that is where I’m at, any thoughts or opinions would be much appreciated, thank you.
I have a 98 ford ranger 2.5L 4 cylinder with a manual transmission. Just before I got home my truck shut off on its own. I started it back up with no red flags on the gauges. I got across the bridge and it died again. I started up and pulled into the gas station. Popped the hood and it was smoking and could smell the burnt coolant. I was 1 mile from the house so I decided to putt home. On the way home my gauge was reading hot. I feathered the throttle all the way home keeping it off the red line. I had the heater on as well for emergency relief and I was getting cool air out the vent.
Repairs made prior to the first start up:
My initial thought was thermostat and water pump. Repairing those I noticed my timing belt was rotting so I broke her down more and changed the timing belt. During the whole process I triple checked my timing to eliminate that as the problem.
Current running issue:
Idle is great and my top end is great. But I’m having acceleration hesitation from a dead spot. I’m not throwing a code at the moment since I haven’t drove 25 miles after disconnecting the battery.
Trouble shoot as well as additional repairs:
Initially I bought new spark plugs and wires but i didn’t want to throw everything I had at it at first before I ran it after the water pump and thermostat repair. Prior to changing the plugs I changed the coil pack on the exhaust side because of a assumed bad connection. We still remained to have the same issue. I have now since changed the other coil pack as well as replaced the spark plugs and wires. The only other thing I trouble shot was the Mass air flow sensor by unplugging it during idle as well as throttling from the dead spot. Unplugging the MAFS immediately almost kills the engine before it recalibrates and picks right back up. To me that tells me the MAFS is not the issue.
The only thing I haven’t changed is my heater core or my radiator besides just a basic flush.
As it runs I have no signs of knocking or bad shaking. It doesn’t seem like I’m dragging a piston either. On the initial start up before the plugs and all it did seem to have a slight tick or knock but with in 30 seconds it was gone. Now that noise is almost intermittent. Thinking about it, it might do it from a cold start. Anyways that is where I’m at, any thoughts or opinions would be much appreciated, thank you.
