99 Ranger V8 swap and manual to auto conversion

[don4331]

So he can use the mountaineer GEM with no problems? Use the mountaineer GEM with a manual lever transfer case?

The Mountaineer GEM works with a manual lever transfer case. If you want electric shifting, you need Ranger GEM (and the Ranger GEM needs all the correct options - Power windows, power locks, 4x4, and a/c)

Does the Mountaineer even have low range lights on the dash? (I wouldn't worry about the lights with a manual transfer case, but I'm old).

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

The V8 Explorer/Mountaineer was either 2wd or an AWD t-case with no options for shifting or low range.

Both times I’ve done the swap I’ve opted to just use the AWD case as-is. Dad’s went together fine. Mine I had to shorten the rear driveshaft, but that also could be a product of lowering significantly and/or using the Explorer rear axle. Dad doesn’t off-road and I wanted a lowered street ripper. If I need a 4x4 truck, I have my F-150 and Choptop for now. More 4x4 trucks to come when I can get to them. The AWD works pretty awesome under all conditions. Currently I have 31’s on it because it’s what I had, but they don’t work well on a significantly lowered truck. They rub, a lot. Fine on stock height though. I did upgrade to all of the Explorer suspension goodies (front sway bar, rear sway bar, rear traction bars and I stuffed extra clutch disks into the rear. It grips and goes, and the only way it will spin tires is in a 4-wheel drift.

Torque Monster and OBX versions of the TMs are all that will work unless you can find some old Ford Racing headers for the Explorers (they’ve been out of production for many years). Everything else doesn’t work. Factory exhaust manifolds on the Explorer/Mountaineer are horribly restrictive.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Yes the Explorer setups have the lights, there's apparently a way to wire them up but I haven't bothered on my '00, assuming I'm driving I know what is going on, when the wife is driving she knows how to get it in and out of low range but wouldn't know if it was in 4hi and would probably complain about the steering... although with it's current welded rear diff it's bad anyway

 

[stretchstick]

I can't begin to express how grateful I am for all the incredibly informational responses.

My Ranger is pretty basic (manual windows, no power door locks, etc.). So it sounds like I am in need of sourcing up a GEM from a Ranger that has the power package? If this is correct, does anyone know of the part number I will be after?

A manual shift doesn't really fit into my final build desire. I would like to keep it appearing as original as possible.

 

[stretchstick]

Picked up the transmission today. Here it is, all rebuilt and cleaned up with a new converter and the 1354 adapter installed.

They said the 1354 should be just fine back there. I am retaining the original adapter and output shaft just in case.

Also dropped off the intakes and valve covers at the machine shop. He has the paint code and is going to paint them to match the truck.

Not much going on here, but exciting to me! Probably going to be a while before any updates in this department.

 

[stretchstick]

Some more wiring questions...

Circled is the bulkhead on the drivers side that connects the dash harness to the door, everything overhead, and the rear of the vehicle. There seems to be a lot more going on here than necessary. What is the best way to weed out what is not needed? For instance, from what I understand, the rear harness for the Ranger is under the cab on the frame. So this section of the Mountaineer harness would be redundant.

However, there are some functions of the Mountaineer that I would like to retain (power seats, power door locks, possibly power mirrors, but I don't want the power windows). The Ranger is manual everything and does not currently have any of these power functions.

And circled here is where the dash harness feeds through the firewall. It doesn't appear to meet the engine harness directly, but connects to another harness for everything else in the engine bay, including the fuse/relay box. This Mountaineer fuse box differs from the one in the Ranger, so I assume this 'third' harness will need to be swapped over as well?

Off topic, we've been having night time intruders stalking the neighborhood looking for unlocked cars. They help themselves to whatever they may find of value and move on to the next automobile. They could care less about being discreet, as they have been on video from several neighbors security cameras. Well, when I went out the other day the drivers door on the Mountaineer was open. Can't imagine what they thought when they saw the condition of the interior!

Thanks again for all of the great info!

David

 

[RonD]

Power mirrors are a self contained system you can easily wire yourself

Pull drivers door power mirror with wiring and switch
Pull passenger door power mirror

Below is a 1999 power mirror setup
Literally 12volt and ground wire to switch, and 3 wires to Passenger door mirror

You can try to separate the 3 wires out of dash harness, but........its 3 wires, I would just run 3 new wires