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I'll probably just stick with the OEM relay for now. Since I replaced the cap, it stays on tight and seems good.Reads like 9v battery is dead, lol
Can't explain that
Alright thanks. I followed that wire and found that there's no significant voltage drop until the connector that connects the wire coming from the starter relay post to the one coming from the ignition switch. I did notice something weird which was that one side of the connector seemed melted and was pretty hard to disconnect. I don't know why it melted but the metal seems pretty clean inside the connector. Not sure if maybe something else burned up along the wire to the ignition switch. It also seems to go through a few of these cylindrical things that I'm not sure what they are (They don't look like the fusible links, they literally just look like a black cylinder that the wire goes into)All fusible links connect to Starter Relay Post that has the Battery positive cable on it
Follow battery positive cable to one of the larger starter relay posts, with it will be several other wires, those are all fusible link ends
Often looks like this: https://www.broncozone.com/uploads/monthly_09_2008/post-889-1222112658.jpg
One post with all the 12v wires connected
Alternator, ignition switch, EEC/fuel pump power, main light switch, if it needs 12volts it is connected there in some manner
Nevermind about the black cylinder that I was talking about, I'm pretty sure that was a different wire going through that, hard to tell when its all covered in tape. Though I'm not sure how to further test that section of the wire to find the fault since it goes inside of the big wiring loom and into the dash. I was gonna take the actual wire out of the plastic connector and look over it, but it's stuck in there. I noticed it's a little melted inside the connector too which stuck the metal connector in place and I can't move the plastic tab that releases the metal connector inside.The melted connector probably had a loose connection, which causes heat. The heat may have been enough to start welding wires together.
Post a pic of the black thing.
And the real winner in that group was the guy that noticed a .22 cartridge was just the right size for replacing a blown glass fuse, and then caught some shrapnel when it cooked off.Someone had put aluminum foil around the brake light fuse.
I found a 12 gauge weatherpack 1 pin connector so I just bought that and put it in. Seemed to bring it down from a 150-200mV drop to a little over 100mV now. I tested it and got about 100mV drop and then about 200mV drop when the door buzzer was buzzing. I should mention that this is over the entire circuit. When I tested the positive drop specifically, I got 22mV drop key off at the ignition switch, then 23.5mV key off with the door buzzer buzzing. After that I tested with the ignition set to run and got 142mV drop and then 162mV when the door buzzer was buzzing. The ground side had no issues as it barely broke 8mV drop with the key in the run position. I also measured right before the connector in the engine bay with a sewing needle and saw 113mV drop with the key in the run position. It seems like the voltage is dropping over the entire wire. I got 100mV of drop at wire on the driver side of the radiator and then 60mV of drop on the passenger side. There's no clear point where its a normal amount of drop and then a large amount.You can get single wire connectors with leads attached
Cut that connector out and splice in the new connector
When testing voltage or ohms on an existing wire, sewing pins can be handy
You can put the pin in at an angle so it makes contact with the wire inside the insulation and then test the wire while its "live" if its a voltage test
You can also get "needle probes" that attach to current volt meter probes for the same purpose, also quicker for testing multiple wires
Neither of these will hurt the wires insulation