• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Alternator clicking noise 2.3L SOHC


tomw

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Aug 15, 2007
Messages
1,613
Reaction score
46
Points
48
Location
toenails of foothills NW of Atlanta
Vehicle Year
1985
Make / Model
ford
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
lima bean
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
vertical and above ground
I did not listen to the noise, but just wanted to note that there are several parts sources online(in USA anyway) for alternator repair/rebuild parts. They sell brushes and diode arrays, and maybe bearings. If you cannot find bearings at those sites, you may want to check Fastenal, another web source that besides nuts, bolts and other fasteners, also vends bearings. If you are near a store, they will 'ship to store' bearings for minimal cost for those things not stocked.
Given the minimal volume and mass of a regulator assembly, a diode array, or a set of brushes, shipping to other countries via mail should not be super expensive. Credit card companies are perfectly willing to take francs, lira, marks and pounds(Euros also) for an additional fee. Some are not friendly, and tend to take advantage of their customers, so be aware before using a specific card.
tom
 


EnzoSZ

Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2020
Messages
61
Reaction score
10
Points
8
Location
France
Vehicle Year
1995
Make / Model
Ranger Splash
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Yow!
I received the parts yesterday, regulator and brushes.
The noise was a brushe so it's all good about that BUT my alternator doesn't work.. Got the battery light on the dash when ON, and 12V at the battery when I test it.
I've checked all the connector, wires, fuses, all are goods... So I bet it's time to spend some more money into a new alternator.. yeay
And I noticed when i playu with the throttle, on high rpm, like 3000, the battery light disappear and get back when i release the throttle.

I'm such an idiot, for 20€ plus I could had an alternator but I took the parts..
 
Last edited:

EnzoSZ

Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2020
Messages
61
Reaction score
10
Points
8
Location
France
Vehicle Year
1995
Make / Model
Ranger Splash
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Think of it this way Enzo, you still have us :D

Shipping has long been a problem here also. I remember when the foreign manufacturers were getting a foothold here, one of the primary complaints was having to wait 3 months for a part.

If you can do Spanish you may find better rates out of Mexico(or maybe even Canada) (I cannot at all fully endorse this route as I've never actually tried it, although I did get the idea from someone who had) here is an Autozone link https://www.autozone.com.mx/ (mexico)
Canada doesn't show a lot but I saw this thread that might give you a start for Canada https://forums.anandtech.com/threads/autozone-canadian-equivalent.262165/
I just checked for the alternator on the mexican website... Well.. 2629£$ :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 

EnzoSZ

Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2020
Messages
61
Reaction score
10
Points
8
Location
France
Vehicle Year
1995
Make / Model
Ranger Splash
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Yow!
I received the parts yesterday, regulator and brushes.
The noise was a brushe so it's all good about that BUT my alternator doesn't work.. Got the battery light on the dash when ON, and 12V at the battery when I test it.
I've checked all the connector, wires, fuses, all are goods... So I bet it's time to spend some more money into a new alternator.. yeay
And I noticed when i playu with the throttle, on high rpm, like 3000, the battery light disappear and get back when i release the throttle.

I'm such an idiot, for 20€ plus I could had an alternator but I took the parts..
Edit about that, I've rechecked all the fuses, the 15amp in the motor fuse box was dead, i changed it. Wonderful the battery light is off!
But cause there's always a but... now when I kick the throttle up, the battery gauge go to high and I've got the battery light. And it get back to normal position znd battery light shut off when I release the throttle.
 

sgtsandman

Aircraft Fuel Tank Diver
TRS Forum Moderator
U.S. Military - Active
TRS 20th Anniversary
TRS Event Participant
Ham Radio Operator
GMRS Radio License
Joined
Mar 11, 2017
Messages
12,695
Reaction score
12,390
Points
113
Location
Aliquippa, PA
Vehicle Year
2011/2019
Make / Model
Ranger XLT/FX4
Engine Size
4.0 SOHC/2.3 Ecoboost
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
Pre-2008 lift/Stock
Tire Size
31X10.5R15/265/65R17
It sounds like the voltage regulator is bad.
 

EnzoSZ

Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2020
Messages
61
Reaction score
10
Points
8
Location
France
Vehicle Year
1995
Make / Model
Ranger Splash
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
It does that with a brand new regulator, I've put the old regulator back on with the new brushes, it seem like it doesn't charge the battery but I just did 1h of road and the gauge haven't moved. So I don't really know what to think.
And I still have the battery light on.
 

RonD

Official TRS AI
TRS Technical Advisor
Joined
Jun 2, 2012
Messages
25,292
Reaction score
8,298
Points
113
Location
canada
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
If battery light is staying on then alternator is not charging battery

Battery light circuit is pretty easy to understand
What happens if you hook up a 12v light bulb's 2 wires both to 12volts?
Nothing, no light, to get the bulb to light up you need 1 wire at 12v and the other wire at 0volt(ground), then it lights up

With key on the battery light gets 12volts on 1 wire, the other wire is the Light green wire at the alternator
When engine is off the alternator is a Ground, 0volts, so battery light is on
When you start the engine the alternator SHOULD generate power so NOT a Ground, 0volts and battery light would be OFF, both wires have voltage so no light
 

Josh B

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
TRS 20th Anniversary
Joined
Aug 15, 2019
Messages
3,958
Reaction score
1,960
Points
113
Location
Oklahoma
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Did you pull that thing apart and sand all the contact points(forgotten what they're all called) same as you would a starter(is it armature on both?)
Those things are so easy to dismantle and clean up.
Also there's a way to test the windings, not sure that either but it's fairly simple, I think with an ohm meter?

You may still have a chance Enzo if anyone could fill you in on those things.

What all did you get in your rebuild package, was it only brushes?
 

EnzoSZ

Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2020
Messages
61
Reaction score
10
Points
8
Location
France
Vehicle Year
1995
Make / Model
Ranger Splash
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
If battery light is staying on then alternator is not charging battery

Battery light circuit is pretty easy to understand
What happens if you hook up a 12v light bulb's 2 wires both to 12volts?
Nothing, no light, to get the bulb to light up you need 1 wire at 12v and the other wire at 0volt(ground), then it lights up

With key on the battery light gets 12volts on 1 wire, the other wire is the Light green wire at the alternator
When engine is off the alternator is a Ground, 0volts, so battery light is on
When you start the engine the alternator SHOULD generate power so NOT a Ground, 0volts and battery light would be OFF, both wires have voltage so no light
I understand that, no problem


Did you pull that thing apart and sand all the contact points(forgotten what they're all called) same as you would a starter(is it armature on both?)
Those things are so easy to dismantle and clean up.
Also there's a way to test the windings, not sure that either but it's fairly simple, I think with an ohm meter?

You may still have a chance Enzo if anyone could fill you in on those things.

What all did you get in your rebuild package, was it only brushes?
That thing? the regulator?

I bought one regulator and the brushes who comes like so
35926


To sum up:

*New regulator + new brushes:
No battery light when engine on, engine idling
Kick up the throttle, the battery gauge goes to high, battery light ON and +- 16V on the voltmeter
And the fuel pump did more noise, I guess because it was over alimented in energy

*Old regulator + new brushes:
Engine idling, battery light ON and gauge around 6/7mm over the Low line, 12V on the voltmeter
Stay at 12V if I play with the throttle

As I needed to move, and I don't want to cook my battery, I've put the old regulator in place.
 

RonD

Official TRS AI
TRS Technical Advisor
Joined
Jun 2, 2012
Messages
25,292
Reaction score
8,298
Points
113
Location
canada
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
New regulator is not working, 15v is the upper limit
Running "working" alternator voltage should be 13.5-15volts
The voltage regulator sends 7-9volts to the Rotor(via the brushes)
The spinning "powered" rotor's magnetic field creates AC volts in the alternators 3 Fields, in its case, AC volts are put through 2 diodes for each Field to change AC to DC volts

The voltage regulator adjusts the 7-9volt rotor voltage to raise or lower the OUTPUT voltage from the alternator
 

Josh B

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
TRS 20th Anniversary
Joined
Aug 15, 2019
Messages
3,958
Reaction score
1,960
Points
113
Location
Oklahoma
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD

EnzoSZ

Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2020
Messages
61
Reaction score
10
Points
8
Location
France
Vehicle Year
1995
Make / Model
Ranger Splash
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
New regulator is not working
I'll send it back then.

I thought you were working on an alternator ;)

Did you get it working?
I do ahah but no I haven't removed the alternator from the car, I changed the parts with the alternator in place.
 

EnzoSZ

Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2020
Messages
61
Reaction score
10
Points
8
Location
France
Vehicle Year
1995
Make / Model
Ranger Splash
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Well,
what a great situation, DHL website doesn't work on the schedule pickup part so I can't send back my regulator since 5 days.. All my money's out cause I'm actually on my way to creat my business, I got no car and a really important meeting the 5th February, and I need an alternator..
So I'm looking for someone around the world (I'm in france) who got an alternator who could save me. As long as the alternator do his job even for few months. If the brushes are dead isn't a problem cause I got some new at home.
Obviously, the lowest price is, the better it is for me ^^'

Thanks
 

Josh B

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
TRS 20th Anniversary
Joined
Aug 15, 2019
Messages
3,958
Reaction score
1,960
Points
113
Location
Oklahoma
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Did you ever pull that thing apart and see what's going on inside it?
 

EnzoSZ

Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2020
Messages
61
Reaction score
10
Points
8
Location
France
Vehicle Year
1995
Make / Model
Ranger Splash
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Nothing seem to be bad in it.. So an alternator or few regulators could be usefull ahah
I mean, I had a new regulator it doesn't work, so obviously I'd like to test with an other regulator but actually I can't send back the regulator I bought
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Staff online

Today's birthdays

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Truck of The Month


Kirby N.
March Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Top