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- Joined
- Nov 4, 2009
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- Location
- marquette, MI
- Vehicle Year
- 2000
- Make / Model
- Ferd
- Engine Size
- 4.6
- Transmission
- Automatic
Original Poster: Kroussinoffroad I'm sure im not the first one to think of this
Difficulty: 3 out of 10
Time to install: 2 hours pending on condition of original Brake line's
Disclaimer: The Ranger Station.com, The Ranger Station.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of The Ranger Station.com forums.
Brief Explanation:
Instead of ordering extended brake line's, this is a way to run front brake line's and keep them away from the coil spring's and tied to something outta harm's way
Tools Needed: Basic hand tool's
Drill, 1/2'' drill bit,
flaring tool,
welder.
Parts Needed:
bulk brake line and flare nut's
or premade length's with coupling's
Flare tee (not plumbing flare)
Original Brake hoses (at wheel)
95 cavalier rear brake hose 's (2)
hose clamps
short angle iron
Iso bubble to double flare adapter fitting
---------------------------------------------------------
Steps 1:
I ran from my porportioning valve to my tranny x-member with new hardline.
I then tee'd across to the passanger side . some may decide to have the tee at the axle. but didnt like how the rubber hose was if i ran it this way.
---------------------------------------------------------
Steps 2:
I then made two bracket's out of angle iron to hold the cavilier line's and welded one to the frame and clamped the other to the control arm. To do this i cut 4 pices of 1'' angle iron and drilled a 1/2 inch hole in it to run the line thru. some filing may be necicary. You may choose to bolt it to the frame that's up to you. The cavilier line's are bubble flare on both side's so this is where the bubble-flare adapter fitting's come in to play.
---------------------------------------------------------
Steps 3:from the cavilier line's another hard line is ran down the arm and connected into the factory rubber line that is clamped to the arm as well. Just make sure that the rubber line isnt going to rub on anything at lock either way or get kinked.
for a nice finished look (not in picture's) mark where the hose clamps are tightened to and slide a piece of heat shrink over the band cut to the mark on band (shrink the tubing) and reinstall.
Difficulty: 3 out of 10
Time to install: 2 hours pending on condition of original Brake line's
Disclaimer: The Ranger Station.com, The Ranger Station.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of The Ranger Station.com forums.
Brief Explanation:
Instead of ordering extended brake line's, this is a way to run front brake line's and keep them away from the coil spring's and tied to something outta harm's way
Tools Needed: Basic hand tool's
Drill, 1/2'' drill bit,
flaring tool,
welder.
Parts Needed:
bulk brake line and flare nut's
or premade length's with coupling's
Flare tee (not plumbing flare)
Original Brake hoses (at wheel)
95 cavalier rear brake hose 's (2)
hose clamps
short angle iron
Iso bubble to double flare adapter fitting
---------------------------------------------------------
Steps 1:
I ran from my porportioning valve to my tranny x-member with new hardline.
I then tee'd across to the passanger side . some may decide to have the tee at the axle. but didnt like how the rubber hose was if i ran it this way.
---------------------------------------------------------
Steps 2:
I then made two bracket's out of angle iron to hold the cavilier line's and welded one to the frame and clamped the other to the control arm. To do this i cut 4 pices of 1'' angle iron and drilled a 1/2 inch hole in it to run the line thru. some filing may be necicary. You may choose to bolt it to the frame that's up to you. The cavilier line's are bubble flare on both side's so this is where the bubble-flare adapter fitting's come in to play.
---------------------------------------------------------
Steps 3:from the cavilier line's another hard line is ran down the arm and connected into the factory rubber line that is clamped to the arm as well. Just make sure that the rubber line isnt going to rub on anything at lock either way or get kinked.
for a nice finished look (not in picture's) mark where the hose clamps are tightened to and slide a piece of heat shrink over the band cut to the mark on band (shrink the tubing) and reinstall.
Last edited:
