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Back Again with another Ranger 4x4


PaulZ

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Hey I'm still registered! So some years ago I had a '92 Ranger 4x4 with a cracked head 2.8. Used it around my ranch that way, no coolant but could drive it 5 minutes or so. It got beat up and rotting so I sold it.

Now I just bought a '99 4x4 for daily use on and off road. 170k miles but runs great. Been fixing little things and wondering about others. Can I get rid of the donger that warns you when the keys are in the ignition? And that little tab you have to press to get the key out, can that go away?

Probably going to need ball joints and a clutch at some point but starting with easy stuff.

34220
 


RonD

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Red Ranger, nice, nice nice (y)

Yes, you can pull the clam shell off from around steering column and disconnect the single wire on the ignition key slot that causes the donger to activate.
I believe when key is in that wire is Grounded so when door is opened donger goes on, if wire is cut or disconnected then no ground so no donger, but test that

Not sure on the tab though, but you should be able to see its mechanism with clam shell off, maybe you can figure away to keep it pressed down all the time
 

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I've had 2 Ford's that I don't even need a key to turn the switch. I never dug into it to see why. One was a ranger, the other a f150.
 

Josh B

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I learned to just grab the key with my pointing finger towards that tab, and turn the key and press the tab in the same motion.

I hated those dingers too, telling me my door's open(Iknew that!) and my seatbelt's not fastened(knew that too!)and whatever other dumbells they had, I only wanted to hear the engine when it first started, but them dang bells kept chiming.
The only one's I liked was the lights on, and one other I think, not sure what it was. I got my wiring diagram and when tracking down some radio wires I snipped the bell ones
 

PaulZ

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Thanks guys, I'll have a look at getting that clam shell off the column. Oddly enough, I don't get the donger when I don't use the seat belt. Also not when I leave the lights on, the only one I wouldn't mind having.
 

RonD

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The GEM(generic electronic module) runs all the cab electrics, which includes the dinger/donger
GEM is located behind the radio, so if for any reason you will be pulling out the radio I would have a look at the wires, and maybe test voltages

I don't have 1999 but 1998 and 2000 GEM wiring is the same so 1999 should be as well
The 3 wires on connector 221, 10, 11, and 12 are the ones you want to check
 

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Welcome back.
 

PaulZ

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Thanks guys! So yesterday a friend called, was headed to PicknPull 'cause he got in a fender bender in his car and needed some body parts. I went along and am happy to report they probably have more Rangers than any other truck. Plus Explorers. My cruise control power switch is broken off the steering wheel and dangling by the wires so I grabbed on of those. Just nice to know I can get parts easily. Saw one with the radio out and got a look at the GEM dingus.

I'm getting a squeal once in awhile when I let the clutch out quickly from a stop. Stops as soon as the clutch is all the way out. I think it might be the pilot bushing. The thowout bearing makes no noise when the clutch is in. Doesn't happen very often, hoping I can live with it until clutch time.

Last night I drove to my cabin and tried to put it in 4WL to get up there, which I have done before. This time the 4by dash light started blinking and it wouldn't go in. Had to walk the hill. Of course when I got back home it was working fine. I see there is a lot of electrics that go with the transfer case switching and they can be problematic, don't need that. We'll see. I also have those vacuum hubs.
 

RonD

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The flashing 4WD lights means the shift motor did not activate when GEM(4x4 controller) sent 12volts to it
This means the switch on the dash and GEM are working
And if it started to shift again then its not the shift motor fuse

The shift motor uses brushes that can get stuck or dirty so no or poor electrical connection to the rotor, tapping on the shift motor can often get it to work again, until next time
Which is why it started working again after driving it some more, i.e. hitting bumps in the road

Shift motor rebuild seen here: https://www.therangerstation.com/how-to/transmission-transfer-case-driveshaft/rebuilding-a-ford-transfer-case-shift-motor/

Best practice to keep shift motor working longer is to shift it into 4low and back to 2WD once a month, just sitting in the driveway, it keeps brushes clean.


1995 to 2000 use the GEM as 4x4 controller and there is also a dual relay box located behind the GEM that is used to send the 12volts to the motor, these rarely fail, but thats not never fail
While the shift motor is the more likely issue, just a heads up that the dual relay box is there and would also show the flashing 4WD lights if it failed, but..............its less likely to start working again
 

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Hello and welcome to TRS!!
 

PaulZ

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Thanks again guys, great explanation on the transfer case switching.

OK, now I would like to run a couple of wires through the firewall, where is a good existing hole to use?

And on that confounded donger, I figured I'd just tape the door switch closed, since I don't really want the interior light on when I leave the door open, but they did a pretty good job of hiding the switch, where is it?
 

RonD

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1995 and up Door switch is on the door latch, at the bottom, inside the door
Switch is OPEN when door is closed, so you can remove door panel reach in and unplug the switch to disable it, it would be always OPEN when unplugged

There should be a grommet in the firewall for automatic shifter cable and e-brake cable that wires can fit thru
 

PaulZ

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Thanks again Ron, my new best friend. Once I get the door panel screws out, does it just pop off with a pry? Will I be down at the auto parts looking for plastic clips?

I also want to get the dash bezel off, gas gauge light out and I also want to mount a switch up there somewhere. Does that just pop off?
 

PaulZ

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Thanks again Ron. Couldn't find a good existing hole in the firewall to pass wire through but I was able to drill one about an inch to the center of the steering column and fit a grommet.

I have to shake my shifter to get the reverse lights to come on. Mazda 5 speed. I guess there is a switch screwed into the trans I can take out and test/clean/replace?

I'd also like the headlights to be brighter. I have used plastic polish on the lenses, one looks like it might be dirty on the inside. Can't see the backside without taking them off, are the bulbs removable? Any recommendation on brighter lights? My old eyes have a tough time with night driving.
 

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