Cam Synchro - Not Exactly Accessible....

[8thTon]

I was checking out the territory as I need to attend to this job. Had to get something to stand on, and this is the view I have:

That harness may as well be cast iron for all the movement I can get on it. Maybe on a warmer day? Job looks like a PITA. At least the bolt is easy to get to, but marking the position of the base won't be fun - is this typical?

 

[mikkelstuff]

I've replaced mine twice! (2002, 3.0L Ranger). It's really not all that bad.

However, I highly recommend using a camshaft synchronizer alignment tool rather than attempting to align with a mark at the base. Also, spend more and buy a Motorcraft unit (DA2089 F8DZ 12A362 AA). I bought a Dorman the first time and had to replace it within a year.

If you PM me an e-mail address, I will send you a detailed procedure that I put together from my experience.

 

[8thTon]

I've replaced mine twice! (2002, 3.0L Ranger). It's really not all that bad.

However, I highly recommend using a camshaft synchronizer alignment tool rather than attempting to align with a mark at the base. Also, spend more and buy a Motorcraft unit (DA2089 F8DZ 12A362 AA). I bought a Dorman the first time and had to replace it within a year.

If you PM me an e-mail address, I will send you a detailed procedure that I put together from my experience.

PM sent, thanks. This is just a distributor, which is something I could pull and replace in my sleep back in the day so I'm not actually concerned about that part. It's just that damned ECU cable harness right over top of it!

What happened to the Dorman part?

 

[mikkelstuff]

My 3.0L would hit and miss at 75+ mph especially in the winter. Replacing the cam synchronizer with a Dorman unit fixed that - for about a year. Then the same miss again along with a check engine light showing a cam synchronizer problem. Changing again to the Motorcraft unit has been a good fix now for a couple of years.

 

[8thTon]

My 3.0L would hit and miss at 75+ mph especially in the winter. Replacing the cam synchronizer with a Dorman unit fixed that - for about a year. Then the same miss again along with a check engine light showing a cam synchronizer problem. Changing again to the Motorcraft unit has been a good fix now for a couple of years.

My 3.0L would hit and miss at 75+ mph especially in the winter. Replacing the cam synchronizer with a Dorman unit fixed that - for about a year. Then the same miss again along with a check engine light showing a cam synchronizer problem. Changing again to the Motorcraft unit has been a good fix now for a couple of years.

Since I'm curious about the root cause of these synchro failures, what did you find when you removed the Dorman? Was the gear worn or the bearing failing?

 

[Fordblue213]

If it helps any, this is the view of a new synchronizer installed in the correct position with the #1 cylinder at top dead center.

Also, take a air gun and blow off the back of the block around the synchronizer before you remove it. Any dirt around there will fall in the hole as soon as you lift it out.

 

[8thTon]

If it helps any, this is the view of a new synchronizer installed in the correct position with the #1 cylinder at top dead center.

Also, take a air gun and blow off the back of the block around the synchronizer before you remove it. Any dirt around there will fall in the hole as soon as you lift it out.

Thanks! I intend to spray down the area with brake clean and the air hose - dirt getting in there was already a concern.

 

[8thTon]

I finally got around to looking at this today. After cleaning and blowing off junk with the air hose I removed the sensor (screws are 5.5mm btw), and all looked good in there. Then I checked for radial play and backlash on the gear at 6 places through 1 rotation of the synchro. There was very little play in either dimension anywhere, and little vertical slop either.

I don't know what happens to some of these, but there are no symptoms and no indication that there is anything wrong with the one in mine so I'm not messing with it further. My only question is this: in the picture below does the REMFG indicate that it's been replaced before? It's clearly not very new.