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Can't Get '85 2.8 to run


1984ranger28

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I dont know how to tell the difference in exhuast vs compression stroke without taking a valve cover off? I honestly need another set of hands to help.
When I was swapping my ignition to duraspark, I took all the spark plugs out except for cylinder 1 and turned it over by hand until I could feel the compression stroke.
 


ford4wd08

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When I was swapping my ignition to duraspark, I took all the spark plugs out except for cylinder 1 and turned it over by hand until I could feel the compression stroke.
Hey that's pretty clever. Thanks for the info.

Not a bad idea. Just put all new plugs in, should be easy enough to get them back out.
 

Redranger90

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Im having trouble getting the 2.8 in my B2 running. It seems like it wants to start, but just won't do it.

I have cleaned and rebuilt the carb. I was a little off on float adjustment, but believe i have since fixed it.

I know the fuel pump is working. It fills the carb bowl up.

So this leads me to belive that it is the ignition. I bought a new coil pack and installed it.

Still won't run.

I am going to look into timing and the distributor cap next i guess....

Any other suggestions?

The B2 has sat for about 6 or 7 years, but only has 60,000 miles on it....
Have you checked for spark at the plugs? Or checked the gap and condition of the plugs?
 

Bird76Mojo

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Pro-tip that will come in handy after you get it running and you're setting and then confirming the final timing..

Use something like a scotch-brite pad to smooth up the dampner around the timing marks, then rub some chalk or white paint in to the timing marks, and wipe off the excess with your finger or a paper towel.

This will make the timing marks very easy to see with the timing light as it's running, and makes your final timing setting much more accurate.
 

ford4wd08

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Have you checked for spark at the plugs? Or checked the gap and condition of the plugs?
I installed new plugs gapped properly to the specs on the sticker under the hood
 

ford4wd08

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OK, another update from last nights work.

Had friend come over and dig into the ignition.

We confirmed TDC and got the timing to 12 degrees BTDC.

We were able to find the the distributor hold down bolt. Geez who's idea was it to put it way down there!!!

We have since tightened up the distributor and have a pretty good idea we are in good timing.

And.... it still won't run.

So, we decided to pull a couple plugs and see it they were wet from fuel. They seemed kinda dry.......

I rebuilt the carb and I know the fuel pump is putting gas in the bowl.

I'm starting to wonder if the intake manifold is clogged or something. There were dirt dobbers nest all over this engine. There was also some in the carb intake. I guess they could climb down into the intake manifold and make a nest too.....

I'll start by pulling the carb and having a look around again.
 

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Bird76Mojo

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Pour a small amount of fuel down the throat of the carb and see if it runs for a few seconds. Be ready for it to possibly belch fire out of the carb though.. STAND BACK WHEN CRANKING IT OVER.
 

ford4wd08

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Pour a small amount of fuel down the throat of the carb and see if it runs for a few seconds. Be ready for it to possibly belch fire out of the carb though.. STAND BACK WHEN CRANKING IT OVER.
We have been trying starting fluid and it still won't go.

I don't think fuel is getting to the cylinders.
 

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If it won't fire with starting fluid, you don't have a fuel issue.
 

ford4wd08

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If it won't fire with starting fluid, you don't have a fuel issue.
The spark tester lights up on cylinder one when i turn it over.

I have replaced coil, condeser, distributor cap, rotor, plugs, and plug wires.....

What is left? TFI on the distributor?

If that has failed would it spark at all?
 

fastpakr

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Two things come to mind.
1- make sure you're really timed to the compression stroke. Pull the #1 spark plug and feel for compression at the plug hole as you turn the crank to TDC. Make sure the distributor rotor is coming up to the #1 spot on the cap.
2 - pick up a cheap spark tester. That will tell you for a certainty that the plug is firing. Something like this :
Lisle 20610 Inline Spark Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002STSC6
 

Bird76Mojo

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It certainly sounds like you either don't have spark to all cylinders or your lower intake is completely clogged with debris/mouse or wasp nests, etc..


By "still won't go" do you mean it doesn't even try to run at all? Or what? It should at least try to sputter and run..
 

ford4wd08

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Two things come to mind.
1- make sure you're really timed to the compression stroke. Pull the #1 spark plug and feel for compression at the plug hole as you turn the crank to TDC. Make sure the distributor rotor is coming up to the #1 spot on the cap.
2 - pick up a cheap spark tester. That will tell you for a certainty that the plug is firing. Something like this :
Lisle 20610 Inline Spark Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002STSC6

Ok, i'm sure you haven't read every line in this thread, but i have that exact inline tester which I just stated I used mutilple times to confirm spark.

I have also confirmed the compression stroke and the current timing. I've been through it 5 times and had another set of eyes on it.

I'm not saying I know everything or that I don't make mistakes, but if the plugs aren't wet and I know I'm getting spark via the tester, what else could it be?
 

fastpakr

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Sorry for missing some of that in your responses. If you have spark and it's at the right time, and it won't fire with starting fluid...
Sorry again for not reading all the previous posts, but where do you stand on compression?
 

ford4wd08

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It certainly sounds like you either don't have spark to all cylinders or your lower intake is completely clogged with debris/mouse or wasp nests, etc..


By "still won't go" do you mean it doesn't even try to run at all? Or what? It should at least try to sputter and run..
Really no sputtering at all. I think I'm going to pull the carb tomorrow and have a another look into the intake manifold.

On the spark, if i have it at the #1 cylinder, and a new cap and rotor, i would think i would have it all? Guess i can check with the tester. Would be easy enough.
 

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