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chevy dana 60 and a 14 bolt matched


madmax401

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I just aquired last a matched dana 60 set from a 81 or so chevy k30.(havent located the front mod numbers yet) the rear is a 14 bolt and the numbers are all over it .both housings are stamped GM6 and i cant locate any numbers in the tech library under the 60 identification other than what i found casted in the housing #4030376 . l need to know how to make this a left side drive,the guy that sold them to me said the tubes can be swapped from side to side-just a lot of work and welding . dana 60's are soo damn hard to find I JUST SNATCHED THEM UP . should i put them in the 88f250 and ditch the 44 ttb or should i put them under the project 88 supercab 357 c6 4x4 ? the ranger still doesnt have a t'case except for the 1356 which will need frame mods to use. suggestions anyone_? im on a tight budget and winter is creeping up on me. all my work takes place in the driveway - the motors not done yet and the ranger sas sure would be easier without the motor in it . either way i go---- driveshafts will have to be made as well . decisions / decisions - if they need to be shortened for the ranger.....what should i expect to spend and what sort of shop specializes in that? links and pictures would be helpfull too. the 60's are in the back of my f250 and need to get the hell out of it ,cause the 357 gets picked up next week. what should i do? id hate to sell them ,but will if i have to .:sad:
sincerely ( confused ):icon_confused:
 
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metalmacguyver

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check out pirate4x4.com search it and you will find your answers. insane amount of info over there. D60/14B is pretty much standard equipment for rigs over there.
 

dirtraider

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Isn't the axle Passenger drop? Thats going to make it hard to run with ford stuff...
 

projectnitemare

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It's kinda a bitch but not impossible to swap the tubes. To do this correctly you need to build a jig to hold everything square for when you weld it back up. You need to be able to drill out the plug welds and usually you will need to cut the knuckles off and swap sides with them as well. Not quite a driveway project. Pirate will have some info.

Matt
 

Toreadorranger

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It's kinda a bitch but not impossible to swap the tubes. To do this correctly you need to build a jig to hold everything square for when you weld it back up. You need to be able to drill out the plug welds and usually you will need to cut the knuckles off and swap sides with them as well. Not quite a driveway project. Pirate will have some info.

Matt
No need to swap knuckles just unbolt them and swap them side to side. the inner C is the same on both sides.
 

madmax401

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Ok, i cant find any shop in my area to drill the welds and pull the tubes. the 1 shop i talked to said that they have no-way of separating the tubes from the dif, because of its super tight fitting press fit. they also said if i drill the welds and pull the tubes ....they would do it . hell , i could handle i wouldnt need them guys. im gonna try to seperate the tubes myself.......any suggestions. those tubes are probably going to kick my ass . how have you guys done them ?
 

madmax401

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still cant find a shop to swap the tubes on my 10 bolt gm straight axle. there is a shop that will only do dana's for 250 bux. argh!! looks like the 68 f250 d44 will be going in.
 

Toreadorranger

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what shops are you dealing with? they seem like a bunch of idiots.
 

madmax401

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IDIOT'S IS RIGHT !! nobody wants to earn a check, they just want the gravy work . i've called every pro street performace shop--guys who build dragsters-custom pro street classic hot rods . these guys narrow rears for their own progects and have the nerve to tell me that they cant pull my tubes out of a gm 10 bolt front . i did find a shop yesterday ....an hour a away for $250. drilled - pulled - swapped - reinserted and rewelded . thats sounds reasonable to me considering how much is involved + the fact what progect nightmare said "not a driveway progect". i think the 10 bolt front might get tossed. not hardly worth it----i should just put the d44 in and call it a day.
 

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