Clutch chirping

[helpme]

Well, I took my Ranger to a transmission shop for a new clutch slave & master for $675. I don't have access to a lift or I would have done it myself. The clutch disc was not slipping.
I get it back and it started chirping upon take off. But now its chirping all the time. Also I am detecting that its not dis-engaging all the way. Still have trouble up-shifting from 1st to 2nd when its cold. Have to double clutch it. Also can feel some rumble when coasting downhill when shifter is in 1st. Can shift out of 1st with some effort.
Is there anybody (national chain) who's good on these things as I think these guys are principally automatic mechanics?

 

[helpme]

As I understand it they put in a Luk master and slave.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

I avoid national chains at all costs.

Ive found that finding a local, small shop that kinda reminds you of cooters from dukes of hazzard to be the best place for nuts and bolts stuff.

 

[RonD]

Well there are good and bad mechanics same as good and bad Doctors

If the "chirping" goes away when clutch pedal is down even a little its the throw out bearing making the noise when it has no pressure on it
This would not effect shifting, but air in the clutch system would

If the noise is only when clutch pedal is down, its the pilot bearing
This would effect shifting as the pilot bearing allows the input shaft/clutch disc to spin at a different speed than the flywheel

When you are stopped, the transmission is at 0 RPMs, it is hooked directly to the rear wheels
Engine/flywheel is at say 700PRMs
When you press down on the clutch pedal the clutch disc is released, so input shaft can slow down to 0 RPMs allowing you to shift into a gear.
The pilot bearing supports the end if the input shaft inside the flywheel, spinning at 700RPMs, if pilot bearing is not free wheeling then it won't let input shaft slow down to 0 RPMs easily.
So hard to get into gear stopped and hard to shift gears driving because input shaft RPMs are staying at engine RPMs

When clutch pedal is up all the way the engine/flywheel and input shaft are all spinning at the same RPM, so pilot bearing is not being used

 

[helpme]

Thanks all. Yeah it was an independent shop locally. They have done excellent work on previous vehicles. I thought $675 was a little high for just a clutch slave and master. Took them a whole 2 days to do the job.
I'm thinking the noise is emanating from the slave's contact with the fingers of the old pressure plate. The wear patterns are different and that's what is making the chirp. But a little grease here would probably solve the problem
I'll take it back next week and see what they say. If that fails there's big shop 4 miles up the road.

 

[helpme]

Something new I discovered. When its been running a while, after you park it (engine off) , you can slam the passenger door and hear the same kind of chirp coming from underneath. Hmmm. Think I'll go under there and check the Y pipe bolts ,etc.

 

[helpme]

This is wierd. When I am driving down the road, and hearing the chirping, I can see flutter in the speedometer needle to the rhythm of the chirp.

 

[O No 3.0!]

I would bet your problem is in the master/slave cylinder not being bled out completely, still has air in it. Hydraulic clutches are notoriously hard to bleed, so much so that Gm sells a complete master/slave cylinder already with fluid & properly bled. Best way ive found to bleed them is to raise the rear of the vehicle while bleeding.

 

[helpme]

The chirping turned out to be a loose bolt on the cat.
I'm beginning to think this might be a scam in order to do the clutch and pressure plate job since all I had done with them was the clutch slave.
Maybe they just rushed the job. (I didn't rush them.)
You just never know.
So for any chirping issues, CHECK THE CAT BOLTS FIRST!!!
Thanks all.

 

[RonD]

Good work

Thanks for posting the FIX