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Common starter issue, fix??


Terry

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I just finished doing a bunch of work to my truck that started when my starter ate my flywheel ring gear. I replace almost every seal, and all other wear parts as well as the clutch assembly and flywheel. My new starter sounded good at first, but then back to the same grinding issues. I have a idea what the problem is. I have read posts on here and just about every fix does not fix the issue. I am thinking that the plate between the motor and bell housing becomes out of flat where the starter goes over time. The starter gets put in and set where it sounds good. After a few cranks the starter moves back into the area where it is worn. I am going to check the thickness of the plate between the starter and bell housing and buy some material the same thickness. I will cut off the entire area of of the old plate and replace it with a new plate under the starter.
 


donaldcon

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I just finished doing a bunch of work to my truck that started when my starter ate my flywheel ring gear. I replace almost every seal, and all other wear parts as well as the clutch assembly and flywheel. My new starter sounded good at first, but then back to the same grinding issues. I have a idea what the problem is. I have read posts on here and just about every fix does not fix the issue. I am thinking that the plate between the motor and bell housing becomes out of flat where the starter goes over time. The starter gets put in and set where it sounds good. After a few cranks the starter moves back into the area where it is worn. I am going to check the thickness of the plate between the starter and bell housing and buy some material the same thickness. I will cut off the entire area of of the old plate and replace it with a new plate under the starter.
I don't know if it will work but could you just get a second plate and install it for extra thickness???

It's funny that you mention this being a common issue because on another website I was pretty much called a dumbass for suggesting that these things eat starters.

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alwaysFlOoReD

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I don't think the plate thickness is the issue. That could be fixed inside the starter housing nose cone with adding/removing shims that the over running clutch drive [bendix] bangs into on the shaft. My theory it's an issue of the hole in the plate being offset moving the starter in/out in relation to the crank. I don't know the fix. I've had the same problem with an 89 2.9/ standard but scrapped the truck because rust. I've heard of using a different numbered tooth count of the bendix ; 10 vs 9. I've also heard that standard vs auto nose cones make a difference. But I can't confirm either.
 

Terry

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They are known for doing this. Anyone that called you a dumbass is the real dumbass.

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johnnyhadouken

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The issue with mine wasn't the plate, I had to repair the threads where the starter bolts into the bellhousing. If you're not stripped , I'd recommend getting a starter shim. And maybe replace the solenoid while you're focusing on the starter.

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Terry

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My 2.9 has thru bolts. My old starter ate my flywheel. I pulled the motor, trans and transfer case. Cleaned and replaced most parts. New flywheel, starter same issue. The plate looks like it is curling and this is why I am suspecting the flatness of this plate. I could check it on a surface plate if it was out. I will check it with a straight edge and feeler gauges.

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wildbill23c

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My fix was a scrapped my 84 Bronco 2. This seems to be a more common problem with the manual transmission 2.8L and 2.9L vehicles. Nobody really seems to have a true fix, rust and having a starter that wouldn't stay properly positioned led to the demise of my 84 bronco 2. There's only 1 starter for the vehicle there isn't a difference between auto or manual starters, at least I haven't found an auto and manual starter listed anywhere. The starter in my 84 bronco 2 had through bolts, cranking those down as tight as I could with locking washers, and locking nuts and lock-tite didn't fix the problem either.
 

Terry

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My fix was a scrapped my 84 Bronco 2. This seems to be a more common problem with the manual transmission 2.8L and 2.9L vehicles. Nobody really seems to have a true fix, rust and having a starter that wouldn't stay properly positioned led to the demise of my 84 bronco 2. There's only 1 starter for the vehicle there isn't a difference between auto or manual starters, at least I haven't found an auto and manual starter listed anywhere. The starter in my 84 bronco 2 had through bolts, cranking those down as tight as I could with locking washers, and locking nuts and lock-tite didn't fix the problem either.
I think you hit the nail on the head. The starter does not stay in position. My theory about this is the metal plate gets deformed under years of use. It has like a memory. You put the starter where you want it and the torque moves it back to where the old starter wore a spot. I will get under the truck when our weather goes away and take some measurements. I have been a machinist for over 30 years and have seen the same issue with other things.
 

wildbill23c

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I think you hit the nail on the head. The starter does not stay in position. My theory about this is the metal plate gets deformed under years of use. It has like a memory. You put the starter where you want it and the torque moves it back to where the old starter wore a spot. I will get under the truck when our weather goes away and take some measurements. I have been a machinist for over 30 years and have seen the same issue with other things.
In reality that plate should have nothing to do with it because once you tighten those bolts down with the starter in the right position that damn starter shouldn't be able to move. I never messed around with mine too much I just got pissed off to the point it just went to the scrap yard...sadly the day I took it over there it started right up and I drove it over there to them all for $350.
 

Terry

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The starter moves because the worn area is not as thick as the rest of the plate. Least path of resistance.

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wildbill23c

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The starter moves because the worn area is not as thick as the rest of the plate. Least path of resistance.

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Add a washer in there to correct the thickness issue, you'll still have the same results. I gave up, got tired of messing with it and not knowing if it would start. Combined with the rust issues, it lent itself to the crusher. I now have an 88 Eddie Bauer B2 that is mostly my daily driver now. Really enjoy driving it. I do have a few things I still need to do but are pretty expensive repairs so putting them off until the budget allows. Gotta have the engine replaced in it as the rings are obviously shot as it burns oil pretty bad, plus the normal lifter rattle. Still runs and drives really good though.
 

Terry

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I bought this 87 after my 86 got beyond what I wanted to do for a 2 wheel drive. I bought this truck for 300 dollars. I have more work and money than I thought it would be. I will fix this problem. Got a few ideas and I will share my findings. I have to climb under it and measure the material thickness.

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wildbill23c

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I bought this 87 after my 86 got beyond what I wanted to do for a 2 wheel drive. I bought this truck for 300 dollars. I have more work and money than I thought it would be. I will fix this problem. Got a few ideas and I will share my findings. I have to climb under it and measure the material thickness.

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I think that spacer plate is aluminum, whatever it is its not that great, maybe if someone could fabricate a better one with better material? I didn't bother wasting anymore time on mine since the rust was taking over anyways.

After about 3-4 starts the starter would slide down away from the flywheel causing grinding and eventually just a free spinning starter. Both bolts in mine were through bolts so it was locked down as tight as I could turn the wrenches, still didn't help. That spacer plate or whatever its called didn't seem to be worn too bad, even swapped in another plate still had the same issues.

Let us know what you come up with. This has been a common trouble spot for many with really no permanent fix.
 

Terry

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I think that spacer plate is aluminum, whatever it is its not that great, maybe if someone could fabricate a better one with better material? I didn't bother wasting anymore time on mine since the rust was taking over anyways.

After about 3-4 starts the starter would slide down away from the flywheel causing grinding and eventually just a free spinning starter. Both bolts in mine were through bolts so it was locked down as tight as I could turn the wrenches, still didn't help. That spacer plate or whatever its called didn't seem to be worn too bad, even swapped in another plate still had the same issues.

Let us know what you come up with. This has been a common trouble spot for many with really no permanent fix.
I think I will have some time after work to look at one of my other starter as well as my parts truck has the motor is out and and it has an a4ld trans in it.
I will check the surface of the trans and see if it is flat. Another idea I had was to drill and tap a few holes in the trans where the starter mounts. Grind points on some screws so the points stick up. When you bolt up the starter they should dig in and not allow it to move.
 

wildbill23c

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Total Drop
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Tire Size
215/70-R14
My credo
19K, 19D, 92Y, 88M, 91F....OIF-III (2004-2005)
Just weld the starter in place LOL...that'll keep it from moving, might be a small problem if the starter fails in the future but hey it'll fix the dang starter jumping out of place problem HAHA!!!
 

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