Coolant loss....


85_Ranger4x4

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Swapped the cap off the 77 and all seems to be well.

The spring on the old one was pretty easy compressable. Im thinking it was opening to fast and making a geyser.
No overflow tank?
 


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rusty ol ranger

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bobbywalter

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@bobbywalter
What is an air lock?
What causes it?
How to prevent it?

It's the real reason these have such a bad rep at cracking heads. They heave a bit and the overflow hose may have a hole/cracks in it or just a bad cap or buildup from lack of maintenance and when it cools it get a gulp of air...here....a gulp of air there....about the time you notice the noise or boilover it is too late.
 

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Rusty, have you tried Tile?

Put it in your coolant and it will let you track the coolant. Gotta pair is to your phone first though.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Rusty, have you tried Tile?

Put it in your coolant and it will let you track the coolant. Gotta pair is to your phone first though.
yNlQWRM.jpg
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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It's the real reason these have such a bad rep at cracking heads. They heave a bit and the overflow hose may have a hole/cracks in it or just a bad cap or buildup from lack of maintenance and when it cools it get a gulp of air...here....a gulp of air there....about the time you notice the noise or boilover it is too late.
Odd you say that... I had read a few places now that the North American exhaust manifolds were almost entirely to blame, and the euro/Merkur ones didn't suffer the same issues due to a more efficient design (in terms of disappating heat).
 

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Rusty, have you tried Tile?

Put it in your coolant and it will let you track the coolant. Gotta pair is to your phone first though.
Never heard of it.

It only blew coolant out a day or two. Never overheated. Nothing in the oil. Im sure its fine.

I always heard they cracked because the casting was to thin on the 86TM heads. They are fine untill shit gets hot and they crack.

Ive also *heard* that some 2.9s dont crack. I say it was just a faulty design on fords part. I would think it should handle one minor overheat. But some people make a habit of it.
 

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The exhaust flanging and thin castings are why it won't take an air bubble. They need quality oil and to be kept cool.....do that and the lil mongrels will run like Energizer bunnies. In other words careful maintenance.



The flanging cooks the fawk out of shitty oil and loads/cokes up the base edge inside the head.....and propagates the oil leakage from hell they had from the valve covers.

Luckily even shitty oil today is better then many of the top 80,s-early 90,s oil and makes a pretty big difference.
 

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The exhaust flanging and thin castings are why it won't take an air bubble. They need quality oil and to be kept cool.....do that and the lil mongrels will run like Energizer bunnies. In other words careful maintenance.



The flanging cooks the fawk out of shitty oil and loads/cokes up the base edge inside the head.....and propagates the oil leakage from hell they had from the valve covers.

Luckily even shitty oil today is better then many of the top 80,s-early 90,s oil and makes a pretty big difference.
So keep running headers and Mobil 1?

:threadjacked:

Thread jacking this because I wanted to pick your brain...

Been considering running a BMW e-pump on my heater hoses as a backup/secondary oil system. Also been considering an oil cooler now that I have the big-assed M328 oil pump.
 

bobbywalter

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I run a ce pump with alternate fuel and had good success...what is the BMW pump rated for? The e pump is just for low vis cooling right? That would be the predication for use. Is it for oiling or cooling?
 

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I run a ce pump with alternate fuel and had good success...what is the BMW pump rated for? The e pump is just for low vis cooling right? That would be the predication for use. Is it for oiling or cooling?
Sorry. I completely botched that. Edited it to make it make sense.
 

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