DVDSWAN 02 Sport Trac Build/Maintenance thread

[dvdswan]

Well as it begins, there are a few items that need to be addressed for my Sport Trac. Don't actually have time until this Friday to start troubleshooting but I've been looking / researching the items.

So the first big issue is the 4WD operation. The "4x4" and "4L0" lights on the dash do not come on when the truck is started for the bulb check. Fixed, poor connection at 4wd selector switch.
I went to the tech section Transfer Case Troubleshooting - The Ranger Station Under the Trouble Shooting for the 1995 & Newer Transfer Cases:
Symptoms:

1) When starting vehicle, the “4WD” and “4WD LOW” lights on dash never illuminate. NO LIGHTS

2) After turning 4WD switch (knob on dash) there is no response at all, 4WD light on dash never illuminates and no clicking. Not lighting or flashing

3) 4WD will not engage. Not engaging

I plan on going through steps 1-5 on Friday.

Next Item will be the Power Mirrors being inoperative. So, I'll be checking the fuse for that then testing the switch for power and operation. Fixed bad power mirror switch.

I noticed that a couple of body mounts were toast so those will be coming soon.

Missing antenna and jack. I'll grab those from the junkyard next time I go.

Tailgate handle is hard to operate. Suspect linkage is either bent or plastic clips are starting to fail. Fixed. Clean and lube latch mechanisms.

Thermostat housing is the plastic one, so that's added to the list.

Tensioners as well.

No oil on the driveway but undercarriage is wet. Need to clean up and check for leaks.

Change fluids and filters.

Replace burned out dash lights. 4x4 switch back light, rear window switch light. CC switches on the r/s of steering wheel are out, but I image that would be a whole switch replacement.

I'm sure I'll find more down the line.

 

[dvdswan]

Went through and checked all the fuses, pulled the connections on the 4X4 CM and checked that for any visually bad components. All good. Checked relays. All good.,

So, I'm ordering a 4X4 CM. Big bummer.

Power mirrors... verified power to the switch but couldn't check continuity of the switch because I didn't know which pins were what. Since both mirrors don't move, I am ordering the switch.

Started digging into the radio operation, works great as I stole the antenna off the wife's Explorer. Next problem is I need to change it from Espanol to English. Tried to do a factory reset but that just wiped the channels and maybe old phones. Not sure about the last part, I didn't look there.

I do have a question on the fuse cover in the engine compartment. Is it suppose to match the layout exactly?

This is the layout...

but the cover looks like this... just imaging the numbers are facing correctly.

 

[Josh B]

it;s a mirror image

 

[dvdswan]

Went out and played with the switch. Disconnected the wiring, checked for power and ground. Plugged it back in and the 4X4 light came on then off. Weird. Turned the switch to 4x4 and the light came on, turned it to 4LO and the light came then off. Put the bezel back in place started the truck and turned it to 4x4, light came on and heard engagement. SWEET! Put in neutral and placed in 4LO, light came on and heard it shift. SUPER SWEET! Drove the truck and it worked in 4WD.

So, the "fat electron" has left the building thanks to PFM.

 

[rumblecloud]

Just found this string. I'll be following since I have an 02 as well. Mine (actually Ann's), is down waiting on new rear brake lines.
We have 228K on the OD. Ann loves this truck and it will be her daily since we turned in the Taco.
Good luck.

 

[dvdswan]

Today, I picked up the power mirror switch. Pulled off the dr. door panel, 4 screws 5.5mm head (2) behind the pull handle and (2) at the bottom of the door panel. There is a little plate at the door handle, it has integrated flat clips on the top and bottom of the plate. It pops of very easily. The multifunction window switch has (2) metal clips, (1) in front and (1) in back. This lifts up fairly easily as well. Disconnect the door lock switch connector and the (2) connectors for the power windows. Pop out the clips (2) at the bottom of the door and (3) on the front and (3) on the back.

It's a lot easier if you have an interior trim tool kit.

Once all the door panel clips are disconnected, you can just lift straight up to detach it from the window belt trim. You can now disconnect the mirror switch. The mirror switch has (2) clips (1) on top and (1) on the side. If you push in the (1) on the side 1st it will be easier to get it out after pressing the top clip. Once the new switch is installed you can just put the panel back on. The 1st step is to line up the window belt trim, have the window down then start with the back of the door panel 1st at a slight angle, line up the lock knob and with the corner of the panel in window belt trim track the panel will just guide itself in the trim track. Then reverse the process of removing the door panel.

This whole job took about 20 minutes total. If it's your 1st time go slow so you don't break any plastic clips or the parts that hold the clips on the door.

The next task was to find out why my tailgate handle was difficult to operate. You would have to pull up really forcefully to get it too unlatch. I was thinking that something was bent or a plastic clip was going to fail. There are (6) T30 Torx head screws towards the top of the tailgate. (2) on the left side, (2) in the middle, and (2) on the right side. Then there are (4) body clips at the bottom.
Once the panel was off, I could tell that all the mechanisms were dry and dirty. Took some brake cleaner spray and sprayed the mechanisms, the latch and (2) locks on each side of the tailgate. Once that dried, I sprayed WD-40 on them with a good soak. Unfortunately, I didn't have any lithium grease which would have been better. I have plans that I want to do to the tailgate so I will coat latches at that time.

While I was doing this I noticed the poor install of the 3rd brake light on the topper. One of the wires was broken. Surprise there.

I'm not a huge fan of butt connectors just for the simple fact that they can fail. These have been open to the elements because the back glass is missing. The wires have corrosion on them as well. I threw some new butt connectors on to get by until I have the proper connector for this.

 

[rumblecloud]

Good stuff. Lots of detail.
Odd about the trim kit -- I lust picked one up from HF. I needed it to put a back-up cam in our Escape -- it really did make the job much easier without breaking any of the trim pieces - which is what would happen with a screw driver.

 

[Ranger850]

Congrats on the new tro you Sport Trac. I had a 2nd gen 2wd, probably the most fun and versatile vehicle I've ever owned. My buddy had a 1st gen like yours, and his was just as cool as mine. His was actually the reason I got mine.

One thing I remeber doing is putting 2x4's in the slots on the bed floor to baffle the wind when I had my back window open all the way. If i didn't put the 2x4's there, the wind would suck debris into the cab. You shouldn't have that issue with the topper, but IF you ever removes it . . .

 

[dvdswan]

One thing I remeber doing is putting 2x4's in the slots on the bed floor to baffle the wind when I had my back window open all the way. If i didn't put the 2x4's there, the wind would suck debris into the cab. You shouldn't have that issue with the topper, but IF you ever removes it . . .

I had the problem on my 720 I had. Got hit in the back of the head with can of soda, empty of course.

I found a tonneau cover and bed separator for free. I pick those up weekend after New Year.

 

[dvdswan]

Today, drove down to Portland to pick up a factory bed cover and bed divider for the truck. Turns out I picked up a bike rack as well. All FREE!!! Well, 80.00 for gas, so good purchase anyway. With keys and hardware.

 

[rumblecloud]

That's a great find. And a nice drive.
I'm setting up to pull the bed and work o n rear brake lines over the next couple weeks. I pulled the bed earlier th...LAST YEAR...geez it's hard to remember....so it shouldn't be too bad.
Congrats on your find.

 

[bobbywalter]

oh.....you lucky bastage....good deal.

hope it keeps up. cant beat it for the money.

 

[scotts90ranger]

That's a good score! I wouldn't call the Seattle area to Portland drive "nice", it's not too bad in the daylight but at night it's straight and boring... really hard to stay awake around dark noon...

 

[dvdswan]

It's usually an uneventful drive. They do have a new billboard up heading south around Centralia. Something about how soldiers from WWII didn't fight so you could get free money from the food stamps. LOL Great statement though. I was going to get a picture on the way back but couldn't remember where it was.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Interesting on the billboard. My only problem with the drive is how straight the road is and just a tunnel of trees for a good portion... then the Seattle traffic starting around the Kent area... not too bad on the weekends.