Engine blew - Seeking advice before next steps.

[Scettles]

My 99 4.0 engine just blew like a month ago and I'm considering buying a rebuilt motor and transmission to make it like brand new! Money isn't the biggest issue... and this truck has huge sentimental value for me! I know it would be cool to try and do a 5.0 swap... but I would rather put a rebuilt engine in it then trying to find a wrecked explorer and swapping pats, wiring, etc... and getting an engine I don't really know much about. More about enjoying the truck driving around then putting a 5.0 in lol. I have changed clutches in trucks, cars, rebuilt suspensions in this truck, swapped radiators and water pumps, redone brakes, and changed fuel pump in this truck. But... I have never pulled an engine or put one back in and such.

I had thought about going and spending like 200-250 bucks at harbor freight for an engine stand and hoist. Taking tons of pictures and removing everything and labeling and such... My few questions are...

1. Are there any specialized tools I need for this?
2. Rockauto asks for VIN number to to verify these parts before ordering so I'll do that... but no access right now to verify that... but I'm guessing these are the right parts...?
3. What are some other things I could/should replace/upgrade while having the engine out that will be immensely easier and great preventative maintenance.
4. With my experience that I have told from a Youtube/reading online mechanic... is this a DIY-able job for me?
5. Anyone have any experience pulling this engine WITH the trans still attached as I would like to maybe pull/put back in that way to avoid issues I have heard of lining back up and such people have said.

Below is the 4x4 manual transmission that shows up on Rock auto. My transmission has seemed fine. Little vibration when clutch isn't pressed in. Goes away when pressed in. Few grinding between gears sometimes. But it is still the original clutch as well. Couldn't really feel anything negative about it. 210k on it. This is all a hobby for me and just a love of the truck. So, I'm considering either buying a rebuilt one here and putting it in... or possibly getting the manual on this transmission and a rebuilt kit for it and giving that a spin.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9910656&cc=1354799&jsn=450&_nck=ZExt1ysfqhqWnq+EvUNdS3Txyey60IDtnjPWF5UU9J0BWQv7pvqZbkEUk86+AYIh/8vGRbRbhjuRv3PrlD7/cxHklwOF6+5+M5AhIHBhP6m5iVfCp7uzfOZCx34zsF5gZ2yGO6P9GDqGSH8SWhTeZ0t7NALpjj4vXdARh3NmBr9GxfsxmPAf3Z3O+MuEr/dqtm3ia0RgXls+A6eTeZK+JknlI+KowhGWyDOMlkbIm8krIsRTSDhvbL4ihBDKMkcAPRkn4gg4YyPkiioE3pn4cMWdwWE2VnIEIl+7/87jB0rwy2W7hR1bRuMN+7R9G3REF5t6tFenHp19r5ccrF0XqAlxNOqp87oU

Below is the 4.0L V6 engine long block that comes up.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7126332&cc=1354799&jsn=452&_nck=ZExt1ysfqhqWnq+EvUNdS3Txyey60IDtnjPWF5UU9J0BWQv7pvqZbkEUk86+AYIh/8vGRbRbhjuRv3PrlD7/cxHklwOF6+5+M5AhIHBhP6m5iVfCp7uzfOZCx34zsF5gZ2yGO6P9GDqGSH8SWhTeZ0t7NALpjj4vXdARh3NmBr9GxfsxmPAf3Z3O+MuEr/dqtm3ia0RgXls+A6eTeZK+JknlI+KowhGWyDOMlkbIm8krIsRTSDhvbL4ihBDKMkcAPRkn4gg4YyPkiioE3pn4cMWdwWE2VnIEIl+7/87jB0rwy2W7hR1bRuMN+7R9G3REF5t6tFenHp19r5ccrF0XqAlxNOqp87oU

 

[RonD]

You have an M5OD-R1(M5R1) manual transmission and they don't fail very often, rare occurrence, they have 3 rubber plugs at the top back of transmission, these do leak and need to be replaced
Same for the BW1354 transfer case they last and last, their electric shift motors do fail, on the back of transfer case, easily replaced without pulling transfer case

No special tools are needed, good assortment of sockets, extensions and swivels/universals, and open end/box end wrenches
Fan clutch tool is about as exotic as it gets
In 1999 most should be metric..................most, lol

Look in the local buy and sell or Craigslist for used engine hoists, people often do what you are doing, they buy engine hoist and engine stands, the use them and then resell them
You can also rent them, for removal and then again for install

One thing to remember is that the weight of the engine is what is holding the front torsion bars(springs) 1/2 way down
When you lift the engine with a hoist the front end of the truck comes up as well, so you need a very high lift to clear the front end
You can remove front wheels and lower front end down to lower the lift height needed
On coil springs you can chain them to limit the lift as weight is removed, not sure you can do that with Torsion bars


You need a 1998-2000 4.0l OHV replacement, it had different heads that earlier 4.0l OHVs

Take LOTS of pictures, and yes labels are good as well
The wiring has been in place for 20 years so even after removal it will fold back into place pretty easy so "where it goes" will be fairly obvious.

Pulling engine with trans requires minimum 3 guys/people, two as guides(one under one over) and one running lift, and even higher lift, as the trans will be the lowest point
I smashed/cracked my windshield on my first engine/trans pull, lol, lots of weight swinging when it gets up that high, but didn't have a 3rd guy up top, 40 years ago, I'm over it, but sure was pissed at the time

I don't think I would pull engine and trans when its a manual transmission, manuals are not as hard to install on an engine as automatics, with the 3 or 4 flexplate bolts.
You can drop transmission and transfer case down and slide them out to inspect or replace
And if you want, install the clutch and bolt trans to engine for reinstall, I would install transfer case after engine and trans were in place

 

[Scettles]

You have an M5OD-R1(M5R1) manual transmission and they don't fail very often, rare occurrence, they have 3 rubber plugs at the top back of transmission, these do leak and need to be replaced
Same for the BW1354 transfer case they last and last, their electric shift motors do fail, on the back of transfer case, easily replaced without pulling transfer case

No special tools are needed, good assortment of sockets, extensions and swivels/universals, and open end/box end wrenches
Fan clutch tool is about as exotic as it gets
In 1999 most should be metric..................most, lol

Look in the local buy and sell or Craigslist for used engine hoists, people often do what you are doing, they buy engine hoist and engine stands, the use them and then resell them
You can also rent them, for removal and then again for install

One thing to remember is that the weight of the engine is what is holding the front torsion bars(springs) 1/2 way down
When you lift the engine with a hoist the front end of the truck comes up as well, so you need a very high lift to clear the front end
You can remove front wheels and lower front end down to lower the lift height needed
On coil springs you can chain them to limit the lift as weight is removed, not sure you can do that with Torsion bars


You need a 1998-2000 4.0l OHV replacement, it had different heads that earlier 4.0l OHVs

Take LOTS of pictures, and yes labels are good as well
The wiring has been in place for 20 years so even after removal it will fold back into place pretty easy so "where it goes" will be fairly obvious.

Pulling engine with trans requires minimum 3 guys/people, two as guides(one under one over) and one running lift, and even higher lift, as the trans will be the lowest point
I smashed/cracked my windshield on my first engine/trans pull, lol, lots of weight swinging when it gets up that high, but didn't have a 3rd guy up top, 40 years ago, I'm over it, but sure was pissed at the time

I don't think I would pull engine and trans when its a manual transmission, manuals are not as hard to install on an engine as automatics, with the 3 or 4 flexplate bolts.
You can drop transmission and transfer case down and slide them out to inspect or replace
And if you want, install the clutch and bolt trans to engine for reinstall, I would install transfer case after engine and trans were in place

Thanks for this info! I'll definitely check local ads for lift/stand. Sounds like worst case I replace just a few things on my trans. Those symptoms I listed sounds like mostly 210k miles clutch? Also assuming that long block I picked out is a good buy for my needs. I believe it comes with the heads? I'll just drop the trans first... Then pull the engine sounds like what I'll do. I plan to to a rear disk brake mod as well. And clean the frame up and repaint it and such so might as well get everything out of the way I can! Thanks for your knowledge and help! Probably get this thing pulled over to my house and pull this engine in the next few months before I even order the long block.

 

[RonD]

Short block means it has crank, connecting rods, pistons, rings and bearings installed, and in an OHV often the cam, its bearings and timing gears/chain

Long block means it has the above and also new heads, rockers, lifters and push rods are installed and in the case OHC the cams and timing gears and chains as well

Either can come with new oil pump, usually not installed because of transporting issues, but included

Just FYI, Ford V8s weigh about 500lbs, the Big Block 429 was 680lbs, so a 1 ton(2,000lbs) lift/hoist is OK, even it lifting transmission as well
Same for engine stands, most are rated at minimum 1,000lbs
So these would be fine for V6 which is about 400lbs

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Bein a 99 isnt that an SOHC 4.0?

 

[RonD]

No, Rangers used the 4.0l OHV from 1990-2000, then got the 4.0l SOHC in 2001 to 2011

Ford Explorers had them as an option from 1997-2000 then in 2001 they also got the 4.0l SOHC as the base model engine

Last model year with 4.0l OHV was 2000, Ford didn't make that engine after that

 

[sd359]

When you take the transmission loose from the engine you will need to replace the clutch slave cylinder. When I changed mine I used perfection clutch brand their hook up for the line is much simpler than the factory white ring you have to push in. Rock Auto has a good price on them. I am working on a 95 4.0l just got it on stand and pulled heads and intake today going good. Good luck with your rebuild.