Error Code 214 CID circuit failure


blairwag

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Hi Gang. I changed the oil and flushed the antifreeze Sunday, routine maintenance. Shortly after, the CHECK ENGINE light is on. I have an AutoXray 5000 engine scanner. Pulled the codes and got a 214 memory error code: Cylinder Identification circuit failure. I've reseated the connector to the distributor block and to the crankshaft sensor. Still no good. I cleared the code, but it returns almost immediately. Error remains consistent.

I've read this is likely a wiring/open circuit issue, or a sensor/electronic problem. I tend to doubt wiring is bad, so I suspect a sensor. Supposed to be one of the following: Crankshaft position sensor, Camshaft Position sensor, Ignition control module, or PCM.

Question: How do I scan or pull "p-codes" or, basically, how do I diagnose this to the ailing unit?
 


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MAKG

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If you "tend to doubt" that wiring is bad, this is over your head.

Bad wiring is a very frequent cause of codes.
 

blairwag

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Well, I'm not sure I agree. I guess a better way of say it would be: I'd like to rule out the sensors. I suspect testing the sensors would be easier to do than testing for faulty wiring. I'm pretty convinced that replacing the sensors would be easier to replace than faulty or gone-bad wiring. So, I'm *HOPING* my problem is a faulty sensor.

It's not exactly over my head. I may not be a pro mechanic, but I think I have the aptitude and ability to address this error code. The Ford service manuals aren't (that I have) written for the DIY guy at home (like me). So, I'm just looking for a little help from someone who knows.

I've read about tests using a DVOM (digital volt meter), set to monitor <5vDC using a break out box (likely one I'd have to fabricate) to test for a > 0.1 volt variation in signal from both the CMP and the CKP. I can do this. I was kind of looking or clarification as to whether this is the best approach.
 

MAKG

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The technique for avoiding a breakout box (which no one -- including a number of dealers -- really has) is called "backprobing." Use a straight pininserted into the computer connector, and grab it with an alligator clip. You can often stick straight probes right in.

The easiest way is to voltage-probe the functioning circuit and see where the signal gets lost.

Ruling out sensors requires checking power and ground for each of them. Not a bad idea, but it's not called for if you can see the sensor output....

This would be quite a lot easier to do with a DSO, but you can probably use a tach to detect the signal.
 

blairwag

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Backprobing! I can handle that. I've read about it, but never gotten such a good description. It makes sense. And, I can definitely do that. Seems easier than making a breakout box or block. Question: when back probing, do I do this with the wiring harness connected to the sensor in question, or do I disconnect the wiring harness connector from the sensor? Would seen to me that it should remain connected, but I don't know if the load from the circuit would skew my measurements.
 

shadetree63

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I've got the same persistent code on my 94 Explorer Sport 4.0, V6, stock.
I also have a problem after 20-30 minutes run time of engine cutting out under acceleration. Runs perfect when it's cold on short trips.
I left it idling after running about two miles yesterday and after 10 minutes got back in and ran down the road. I could barely accelerate from a stop or going down the road.
If I put the pedal to the floor, it would clear up and accelerate. To overcome the situation, I have to keep the engine north of 1500rpm or it won't go...
The only code at the moment is the 214...
Any ideas where to start?
 


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