Explorer Axle Conversion - Forked (Dented) Driveshaft


PetroleumJunkie412

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He's got a welder. And cost for balancing is only about 50 bucks around here. My place does it on the car, takes about 30 minutes.
Ok. You have my.full attention. Have something I can.read to see what I.have to do?
 


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So, in getting ready to put the 8.8 Explorer axle in my ranger, I picked up a one piece driveshaft out of a 1999 extended cab.

The forklift operator at the junkyard I use typically annihilates driveshafts on pickups, and today I THOUGHT I got a hold of one that he didn't mangle.

Until I took it out of the bed of my truck when I got home.

So, the new one piece is dented from forklift forks. It's not "bad" per se, but it definitely has a flat spot in it. Maybe 1/16-1/8" deep dent, 6" long. It's forked up. (trying to make myself laugh here)

I'll post some pics tomorrow morning

So... What are my options?

about the fork lift driver? depends on how devious you are
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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about the fork lift driver? depends on how devious you are
Ratted him out to his boss this morning. They agreed to take a return.

Still interested in potentially repairing it. Well see I suppose.
 

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A lathe would be best to remove the welds holding the ends on. I know some have used v-roller stands and grinders to remove the welds. Welding the tube back on is pretty basic.
If you plan on spirited performance driving, a new or rebuilt shaft is recommended.
 

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I make a set of v stands from whatever scrap I have. Cut the yokes off leaving extra room (leaving the weld). Then with the yokes off carefully cut the welds and clean them up, check the ends are straight. Put the new tube on the v stands, very very lightly tack on the yokes and then use good squares to make sure they are dead center. If you've gotta break them off and reposition them a few times do it. Make sure they are clocked right as well. finish the weld, check again.

I built the shaft in my mustang and have driven that over 110mph with no vibrations. I also did the one on my old ram charger and never even bothered to balance that beast. It's really not a complicated job at all, just need to prep and check, and check and check then check again before finishing the weld.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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I make a set of v stands from whatever scrap I have. Cut the yokes off leaving extra room (leaving the weld). Then with the yokes off carefully cut the welds and clean them up, check the ends are straight. Put the new tube on the v stands, very very lightly tack on the yokes and then use good squares to make sure they are dead center. If you've gotta break them off and reposition them a few times do it. Make sure they are clocked right as well. finish the weld, check again.

I built the shaft in my mustang and have driven that over 110mph with no vibrations. I also did the one on my old ram charger and never even bothered to balance that beast. It's really not a complicated job at all, just need to prep and check, and check and check then check again before finishing the weld.
So what you're telling me is that I can get a measurement off this one, then use the 1995 two piece with the same ends and slip yoke and go to town with chromolly tubing?
 

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Well if you wanna use 4130 it's a tad more complex. You should use ER80S-2(6) wire and 98/2 ar/co2 instead of 75/25. You also need to pre-heat before welding 4130 to steel or it can crack. No post heat necessary but should be cooled slow, preferably in cat litter.

Maybe practice on a crappy shaft first...

Regular mild steel tubing is easy, just don't use flux core.
 
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He's got a welder. And cost for balancing is only about 50 bucks around here. My place does it on the car, takes about 30 minutes.
I can beat that. I know how to balance a drive shaft just using two hose clamps.
 

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All ears.
Draw four quadrants one your drive shaft, making lines in line with the bolts is easiest.

Put a single hose clamp on with the screw in any one of the quadrants. Test drive for vibration. Move the screw around the zones you marked off until you find the spot with the least vibration. If you can't find a spot with no vibration add a second hose clamp and repeat the process until all vibrations are gone. You shouldn't ever need more than two clamps.
 

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For the record I had the same experience trying to find a short bed regular cab 4x4 drive shaft when I twisted and bent mine while tractor pulling... couldn't for the life of me find one when I needed it so I took it to a driveline shop and had it redone which cost $450 if memory serves (like I said, bent and twisted, most had to be replaced)... a few months later I found one in a junkyard for $45... now I have a spare :)
 

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Having built a bunch of driveshafts at home... my method involves tacking the yokes to the tube, installing the driveshaft into the vehicle, and using a dial indicator while turning the shaft to reduce runout. It's VERY difficult to get it perfect.

My local shop charges around $150 to retube and balance a shaft - totally worth it if you care about vibration. My application is offroad use and I use 1/4 wall pipe - so vibration is expected but I do try and get them as close as possible.
 

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My head hurts from trying to make sense of that. I can even read french and spanish, and none of that helped. Can some one plz tell me what she said.
 

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Balancing a driveshaft with hose clamps isn't "ghetto", the procedure was in Ford's driveline vibration manual they released for the Fairmont.
If you re tube it yourself make sure you have the u joints in phase or you'll never get the vibration out of it. In phase means aligned exactly on the same plane.
 


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