Frame compatibility, regular cab long box

[6bt]

Hi all, former 1995 ranger owner here, put 100k happy miles on it.

So a good buddy got screwed 6 ways to Sunday on a 1998 ranger. Regular cab, long box 4x4. Truck came from the south, but the dealer failed to mention the frame is junk. Paper thin in spots, lots of non factory holes, patched behind the cab, but not straight...truck and box meet crooked.

Was hoping someone could tell us what years are useable for a donor frame. If someone knows of one in the Northeast, please le me know. Truck isn't really safe to drive at this point. He's in too deep now and I feel a frame swap is the best bet at this point.

 

[snoranger]

Regular cabs grew 3” longer in 1998 and the frame stayed pretty much the same for the rest of its run... So any 98+ regular cab, long bed will work.

 

[stmitch]

Just to add on to what snoranger said, there are two front frame sections used on 98+ trucks. Coil spring, and torsion bar. You need the torsion bar front suspension.

All coil spring front ends were 2wd. They usually were in XL or XLT trim trucks.

The torsion bar front ends were used on all 4wd trucks, and some 2wd trucks. The 2wd, torsion bar trucks were Trailhead, Edge, or Sport trims.

 

[don4331]

If you want to be real specific, there are 8 - 98+ Ranger frame sections:

Rear sections:

Short - found in Regular Cab Short box and Supercabs.​

Long - found in Regular Cab long box (it's 6" longer from rear axle to bumper).​

​

Front sections

SuperCab coil spring​

SuperCab torsion bar*​

Regular cab coil spring short box​

Regular cab coil spring long box (6" longer from back of cab to end of rail as compares to RCSB)​

Regular cab torsion bar short box*​

Regular cab torsion bar long box* (6" longer from back of cab to end of rail as compares to RCSB)​

​

*There is a minor variant to the torsion bar frames: 2WD versions are missing the tab to mount the front axle. But, in theory, you could salvage that from your existing frame (or any Explorer/Ranger 4x4 in wrecker if yours is rusted too bad). It does need a weld ground out to remove, and needs to be welded back into new frame - the slot to install it exists on all 2WD torsion frames.

Of course, the rarest beast is the Regular Cab torsion bar long box front section. If you can locate a long box rear section, there are options to modifying a front section:

By extending back of the front section of SuperCab and/or front of rear section of Regular Cab long box, is how you make a SuperCab long box which several of us have done. (you need to increase wheelbase 6" one way or the other). It assumes you (or someone you know) are comfortable with welding a frame back together.​

 

[6bt]

Thanks for the replies guys, still weighing options here. The frame has a quarter sized hole near the front drivers side cab mount, played behind the cab, crooked no less, and thin where the shackle mounts are in the rear of the frame. I can cut and weld, and repair heavy equipment for a living, so shouldn't be hard for me. But in the Northeast, it's difficult to find any decent steel.