fresh OH ~runs hot

[IMenriched]

Ok got spark now...runs good...very good...maybe too good?

I've been working on this thing after work, weekends..etc...30 some odd miles away from home....mostly due to the overhead hoist available there.
Got it running pretty good after a .04 overbore and mild cam, (cam craft) over haul. NEW, waterpump, thermostate 180deg, temp sensor for the gage.

Brought the beast home....runs abit dogish, like it was laboring to get to speed, got a minor exhaust leak too, which doesn't help the feeling of labored accelleration. I feel that a minor retiming would help that.??

it was heating up pretty well on the way home, towards "H", had to stop, ~ cool down~, so I pulled the thermostat out, buttoned it back up, topped everything back off, checked for leaks...headed for the last 10-12 miles for home. even then it was runnning hot toward the end,(the last mile er so), mind you with no thermostat. I was going to get a new radiator cap, cheap, easy to replace just didn't get one yet.

What did I do wrong.??
BTW, all fluids stay in correct places & levels. new interior gages purchased-just not installed yet.

What ELSE should I check?

 

[rickcdewitt]

since you have a different cam i wonder if the fuel mixture is off?did you pull out the little plug while timing it?cooling system pressure test?

 

[IMenriched]

since you have a different cam i wonder if the fuel mixture is off?did you pull out the little plug while timing it?cooling system pressure test?

by "little plug"...do you mean the little thin red spade like item in the plug connector on the TFI module....then yes... I pulled it set timing @14...tighten it down the distrib...& reinstalled said thin red spade. admittingly it would be good to recheck the timing.

as far as the radiator goes...no it wasn't pressure tested...looked good , blew out the fins, cleaned up the outside best i could, inside appeared good. I can't see that it is leaking any where!

when I stopped on the way home, it was in car wash station...so I washed the outside while waiting for it to cool down...then on rinse, (cooler water), without pulling the triggerfor high pressure , I ran it over the radiator inside and out, mostly out. On restart, the factory fan pulled all water in the radiator fins thru and just soaked the engine, i might as well have threw a pail of water on it....so I feel realtively sure that it is getting good air flow.

Is the 4.0 radiator thicker? i'm not sure whether the 2.9's radiator is 2-3core?
is the 4.0's 3-4core?? IS it a direct fit/replacement?

 

[Psychopete]

Is the 4.0 radiator thicker? i'm not sure whether the 2.9's radiator is 2-3core?
is the 4.0's 3-4core?? IS it a direct fit/replacement?

Yes, the super cooling max a/c auto 4.0L radiator is thicker. I remember when I was looking for at Napa, there were two brands, one was just a little smaller for some reason. Just measure the stock one so you know what you're looking for height and length wise.

The stock is a 1 row. The 4.0L radiator above is a 2 row. Some 4.0L radiators were 1 row (eg. manuals).

The radiator itself bolts right in, you will need to reuse the shroud from the 2.9L radiator. Some people have stated issues with the upper hose hitting the alternator belt pulley, I did not have this issue on my '88. I did have to trim about an inch off the lower hose (it was a brand new hose..). The correct hoses have been stated in the old forum data, perhaps someone could chime in with that information.

IMO, this probably isn't going to fix your problem.

Pete

 

[IMenriched]

Yes, the super cooling max a/c auto 4.0L radiator is thicker. I remember when I was looking for at Napa, there were two brands, one was just a little smaller for some reason. Just measure the stock one so you know what you're looking for height and length wise.

IMO, this probably isn't going to fix your problem.

Pete

OK~ well.... what, pray tell, is the core issue/problem?

nice to know that there is a heavier duty option from the 4.0, thanks
did the 2.9 with auto tranny and a/c also have heavier duty radiator? or not as heavy duty as the 4.0?

 

[BOSS302Man]

Maybe the engine is that tight when it was put back together it runs hot. Would explain the laboring when driving it. Did you have a 50/50 anti freeze mixture? Too much anti freeze % will make it run hot also. Don't ask how i know.

 

[rickcdewitt]

by "little plug"...do you mean the little thin red spade like item in the plug connector on the TFI module....then yes... I pulled it set timing @14...tighten it down the distrib...& reinstalled said thin red spade. admittingly it would be good to recheck the timing.

stock base timing on a 2.9l is 10degrees,does camcraft tell you to run 14?if its 14 you might run 89 octane instead of 87 to prevent detonation. also the timing plug should be in the harness above the pass. valve cover.if you aren't sure you pulled the right plug rev the engine with the light hooked up and the timing won't advance with the plug out.it disables the computer advance.my 2.9l runs very cold with a man. tranny 4.0l radiator,you shouldent need the huge auto tranny radiator.as far as the mixture -looking at your exhaust and the deposits it leaves will help determine where its at.

 

[Hahnsb2]

DONT trust your stock gauges, put an aftermarket gauge in there and see what's what...

 

[IMenriched]

really appreiacte the all feed back!!!

What is the trick to changing the fuel filter??? it registering high on the/my hemiriodal ricter scale...(aka PITA)

NO... I don't trust the factory gages, just had simular repairs to our sedan...head gaskets...etc. Its temp gage now reads 14degs warmer than actual. New guages bought for ranger, need to install yet.

Yes 50/50mix.
could be tight...could roll over fairly easy...with no plugs. with plugs diffirent story.

will reset to 10 deg on the timing see what happens.

but as Paul Harvey says....the rest of the story;
discovered that mouse moved into the air box....yes I checked the air filter BEFORE, this overhual started, late last fall, it was good then....filter was not compromised, just packed with nest materails. CLEANED/evicted the rodent, wasn't home anyway....new filter.

NOW it really hunts for idle -surges-, once warmed up it flatens out.
thought i would change the fuel filter too....(see above 1st question in this reply)

It ran better with half a tank of gas and mouse laiden filter box...now with full tank &new filter...
on the way back from topping off the tank it just died....I suspect fuel...walked home. I got the wife to push me back home (2-3 blocks mostly down hill)...{yeah guys, with the other car ~what a gal}. tried to restart on the way home...just sputtering, turned the corner to the drive way....and it fired up Like nothing was wrong??? a real charlie brown moment...AAAAHHH

ran it the garage & ran fine...

 

[Psychopete]

I honestly couldn't tell you what's wrong with it, hard to tell on an aftermarket application.

Almost sounds like it's running lean. An A/F ration gauge might be of some help. What year is it, do you have a CEL present, and have you pulled codes yet? It might not be a bad idea to send the oil in to have it analyzed. Another thing that comes to mind, is the actual cam timing. You might also test the cooling system pressure, or have it tested. I believe too advanced timing increases chamber temps. also. How did the water pump look, and are you getting good coolant flow? Does one side of the radiator get hot, and the other stay cold?

Pete

 

[IMenriched]

I honestly couldn't tell you what's wrong with it, hard to tell on an aftermarket application.

Almost sounds like it's running lean. An A/F ration gauge might be of some help. What year is it, do you have a CEL present, and have you pulled codes yet? It might not be a bad idea to send the oil in to have it analyzed. Another thing that comes to mind, is the actual cam timing. You might also test the cooling system pressure, or have it tested. I believe too advanced timing increases chamber temps. also. How did the water pump look, and are you getting good coolant flow? Does one side of the radiator get hot, and the other stay cold?

Pete

Sorry It's a 86'
NO CEL...yet
yes, new waterpump. new pvc valve,
yes flow appears to be good, I looked after I removed the thermostat could see it moving right along. Can't say whether one side was cool or one side was hot on the raditator...hadn't tried that yet...will check
the snorkle from the factory air intake prior to the filter box to the behind the grill, happen to not be connected, so it was sucking in warm air from the engine bay. BUT I really don't feel that is a problem. thought i would mention it in case the Guru's here on TRS may feel that it is.

I'll have to check vac lines for leaks, recheck timing, O2 sensor & AIC...

I did do the zip tie thing on the foot pedal on the throtle to gain stroke back.
i'll see how much I can get done, Daugther is having knee surgry tomorrow, ACL reconstruction. SO it if I don't reply much I'm busy with that.

 

[Psychopete]

Sorry It's a 86'
NO CEL...yet

And you won't, either. Pull codes!

Pete

 

[IMenriched]

OK will pull codes.
Just got back sunday afternoon, daugthers hospital stay was longer than expected.
BEfore I left I did manage to recheck the timing...reset now @10tdc....at 1st appearance, it seemed to help with temp. (no real time to test completely).
I also have a pretty healthy oil leak up front, either front main seal or pan...not sure yet??

I plan on getting a new inertia switch. judging from the TRS tech library that is what I'm experiancing, maynot explain high temp, but should help with the stalling thing. also a 02 sensor, & AIC wouldn't hurt either....between those 3 things should clear up my issues. along with getting that pesky fuel filter changed and new gages installed.

thanks again

 

[IMenriched]

Where, pray tell, is the fuel filter??....I found the pump...the accumilator, working back toward the tank. Can't see behind the tank very well, but don't see it. I suspect/fear mine has been devoriced out. OR is it possible it is built in to the fuel pumps??

Still have this stalling problem....left me walking twice. checked the inertia switch, jumber wire around, no change. The last time I was checking afew things fuseable links by the battery...coil has power...took off the TFI again...checked, seemed OK regreased a bit heavier reinstalled...IT STARTED right up???!!!

rechecked the timing, after it warmed abit, cracked the throttle, a bit boggie, was standin on the passanger side of the truck, tring to watch the tail pipe too...didn't see great clouds of black, so I don't think that its running rich. slowly ramped up the R's , trying to simulate getting up to speed, got to about 2k and it coughed a coouple of times, like it was back fireing....so i let go of the throttle, it ran for about a minute er 2 then just died again...No spark again???

any ideas??

 

[Psychopete]

Where, pray tell, is the fuel filter??....I found the pump...the accumilator, working back toward the tank. Can't see behind the tank very well, but don't see it. I suspect/fear mine has been devoriced out. OR is it possible it is built in to the fuel pumps??

Mine's located inside of the frame rail, drivers side, right next the to drivers side exhaust manifold. It's kind of a pain, be sure to de-pressurize the system before you pull the fuel clips and fuel lines out. If you didn't know, there will be a plastic arrow looking piece at each end of the fuel line, I used a flat blade screw driver, got under that clip and pulled down. *I didn't pry on anything, they come out fairly easy. Then the line just slips off.

I didn't know this, but apparently you can install the new clip into the fuel line and "click" it into place as you're re-connecting the fuel line. I replaced the fuel lines and carefully clicked the clip back in over the fuel filter barb. After that, I turned the key on 'run' then 'off', pushed on the schrader valve and a ton of air/gas came out, repeated the ignition sequence and checked for any leaks.

Still have this stalling problem....left me walking twice. checked the inertia switch, jumber wire around, no change. The last time I was checking afew things fuseable links by the battery...coil has power...took off the TFI again...checked, seemed OK regreased a bit heavier reinstalled...IT STARTED right up???!!!

rechecked the timing, after it warmed abit, cracked the throttle, a bit boggie, was standin on the passanger side of the truck, tring to watch the tail pipe too...didn't see great clouds of black, so I don't think that its running rich. slowly ramped up the R's , trying to simulate getting up to speed, got to about 2k and it coughed a coouple of times, like it was back fireing....so i let go of the throttle, it ran for about a minute er 2 then just died again...No spark again???

any ideas??

Almost sound like a wiring problem? I've never really had to deal with intermittent spark, there's some good info out on the internet in regards to testing the TFI module and the circuits that make all of that happen. I did have problems with my truck just dying when htting a bump, turned out to be a corroded positive wire to my coil. I found it by just jiggling wires around.

I would start testing to see where the voltage is missing to determine what the cause might be. Even on a larger scale, like is the PCM and fuel pumps still functioning when this happens?

Pete