fresh OH ~runs hot

[IMenriched]

Mine's located inside of the frame rail, drivers side, right next the to drivers side exhaust manifold.

Agreed, that is where I've been looking too...nadda nothing there...there is a little plate covering the fuel lines....it is not anywhere deep enough to house the replacement filter I have...so I'm doubtful if its there. but will remove and see.

[/QUOTE]Almost sound like a wiring problem? I've never really had to deal with intermittent spark, there's some good info out on the internet in regards to testing the TFI module and the circuits that make all of that happen. I did have problems with my truck just dying when htting a bump, turned out to be a corroded positive wire to my coil. I found it by just jiggling wires around.

I would start testing to see where the voltage is missing to determine what the cause might be. Even on a larger scale, like is the PCM and fuel pumps still functioning when this happens?

Pete[/QUOTE]

thanks Pete
I was a wiggling all kinds of wires can't get it to repeat for definate to say "OH that's it"...I'll swap out the O2 this weekend and do more testing too. I did have a green wire to the coil that was suspect so I spliced in a new one, & again a green wire that had a inline resistor that was broke too...just took out the resistor, (wire was broke right beside it)...but no affect on spark. the only ground I'm missing is the cab ground to the exhuast pipe. plan on redoing that as well.

thanks again

 

[Natedog]

... I did have a green wire to the coil that was suspect so I spliced in a new one, & again a green wire that had a inline resistor that was broke too...just took out the resistor, (wire was broke right beside it)...but no affect on spark. the only ground I'm missing is the cab ground to the exhuast pipe. plan on redoing that as well...

That is prolly a diode, not a resistor. Was it about 3" long kinda flat sides and grey/black color? Should be a molded in diode sign on it. Not sure what they are for, but diodes are made to only let current flow in one direction....that could be a problem.

 

[IMenriched]

That is prolly a diode, not a resistor. Was it about 3" long kinda flat sides and grey/black color? Should be a molded in diode sign on it. Not sure what they are for, but diodes are made to only let current flow in one direction....that could be a problem.

Agreed diodes allow only one way current flow.

No I don't think it is a diode....there is several others of these diodes "inline" and they are all marked "diode" right on the plactic/rubber molding. this one had a zig-zag /\/\/\/ with a arrow following. I'm pretty sure that is a resistor symbol...not going to say that it couldn't be a diode....But your discription is acturate, this one is gray &about 3" long. I clipped another one out of the donor truck that I have & will splice it in....and see.

the last time this thing the ignition disappeared, I did unplug the coil connection & check for voltage there...hmmm I'll revisit that too...thanks for the reminder.

 

[IMenriched]

Well been checking this and that....found the orange ground wire by the TFI.
had gotten under the lip of the valve cover. Got it out, spliced in a new chunk of wire and reattached the ground.

Still no spark....I can get spark from the #5 TFI port (KOEO) when running it to the ground....according to the tech library here that hint that the coil is suspect.....BUT it is a brand new coil (Accel).

Checked for resistance and so forthon the coil...it checks fine independently.
so I' at a loss for what else I can check??

How do you check the pick up coil, (under the dizzy) ??

 

[john5482]

Check your exhaust ports and make sure they are not plugged up, it's a common problem with overheating. With your engine temp going to HOT, you may have cracked the heads, a magnaflux test would be a good idea. Do a compresson and a leak check to see if heads, valves, pistons and rings are worn or damaged. If you have a ECT sensor, check to make sure it's working. Remove the oil pan and check the end play of the crankshaft, check bearings. Bent rods cannot be easily seen, they are usually tested.

 

[IMenriched]

thanks John5482

I think It maybe time to recap....at the start of this thread it was running...& running warm to hot with no thermostat and with factory gages after about 3years of sitting.

to get to this point, I Overhauled the engine, .04over, new everything.
One of The last times it was running...I readjusted the timing, it was heading toward 22deg btdc, now it is at 10btdc. that was in the last couple of weeks. I feel that running warm to hot has been corrected. but it also has an intermitant stalling issue, see below.

within the last 3-4weeks it developed a stalling issue. Everytime was after it was warm, as it was coasting to a stop sign it would stall & not start....no spark....I can hear the fuel pump start so I don't feel that it is NOT a fuel problem...just yet. with the stalling thing it been difficult to trust it to go anywhere but just short trips uptown. SO just to for prospective,this rebuild only has 35-45 miles on it.

Ive checked the tfi, coil, plug wires...but as mentioned earlier...I'm not electrically inclined ....so I could have checked something and thought it was good & not realized it wasn't....anyway i've wiggled &checked wires till I'm blue in the face. with no real Gommer Pile moment...."Shazam"...thats it.

yesterday I headed to pull the entire distributor, (going to replace the pickup coil), got the cap off and removed the rotor and noticed that metal end that sweeps around was loose...really loose....so I checked for resistance from the center tab out to the end and go some really wild readings..so the theory is that if is that intremittant just wiggling that what would it be like under a idle situation where it would likely/maybe to have the most vibration...just a theory mind you. it was just late enough that the parts store was closed....SO I'll get a new one and see if that makes a difference.

really apprecaite all the input..thanks

 

[IMenriched]

OK I replaced the pick-coil....got the spark back!! I mentioned this on another thread

I feel that Iv'e gottn the distrib back in correct ..but the I swapped out whole distributors and the one (best one I had- used) has extra boss on the outside of the housing...for the octane rod. My original distrib housing did not have this. This Extra housing boss is limiting me from setting the base timing....as I rotate ccw (looking down on the distributor, grill is 6 o-clock)to get more advance the housing hits the back most injector. hmmm right now it is running (badly) at or past TDC.

can I just pick up the distributor and rotate it 1 tooth on the cam to get the advance i need ???

OR do I have to put in the original distrutor and put the pick-up coil parts in that???

ALSO as read someone elses simular issue, to check the wires in the harness.
so I do....I peeled back the tape, working from the TFI connector back. found a unisulated braided wire not hooked to anything???? what is that for????

 

[IMenriched]

running good again

Ok as mentioned in the last post I replaced the pickup coil.
Still was not getting the advance I needed I swapped out the distributor for one that didn't have the octane rod...dropped it in but ended up being 1 tooth off pulled it up and rotated it the distributor the correct direction this time... got it running pretty darn good.

BUT
still had a surging idle...repalced the following ;
the O2 sensor....little improvement
the AIC controller...some more improvement, but marginal
the tps, this showed the greatest improvement
none of these were new items, except the O2 sensor

runs pretty sweet now.

thanks to all that chimed in and offered support, advice and encouragement

 

[rickcdewitt]

assuming everything else is behaving itself what about the IAC valve?is the idle surge a regular interval and similar rpm difference when it happens?probably IAC.
alright now for the important question...hows it feel with the motor work and that cam?you know i was wondering about the new cam and low end torque. i want my build to focus on low end torque retention for towing mileage and idling it down for creeping around the trail.the camcraft tech wasen't very helpful and most write ups don't say much about the best torque set up(besides a 4.0l).

 

[IMenriched]

assuming everything else is behaving itself what about the IAC valve? is the idle surge a regular interval and similar rpm difference when it happens? probably IAC.
alright now for the important question...hows it feel with the motor work and that cam?you know i was wondering about the new cam and low end torque. i want my build to focus on low end torque retention for towing mileage and idling it down for creeping around the trail.the camcraft tech wasen't very helpful and most write ups don't say much about the best torque set up(besides a 4.0l).

Yes when it "surges" it is regular and consistant intervals....I just tryied to clean up 2 different USED IAC's...I may have to break down and get a new one.

DID YOU CHAT WITH CHARLIES at Cam craft?? I did maybe I caught him on a day where he wasn't busy??? don't know.... but he was really chatty for myself. I just small talked abit and he was interested in what I was trying to do....which is a Daily driver...dependable and flatten out the power band
improve the breathing abit...so to speak. you get the idea. I wasn't going for low end grunt. I have barked the tires (4sp auto w/ auto 4x4) if that helps you.

to be honest, I Havn't tested it much yet....want to replace the front main seal again... got pretty healthy leak there....but intial results seem good....
I havn't spent a lot of time in/behind the wheel other Rangers of simular type so my comparision is limited.

after sitting for about 3yrs prior to my aquirment...the tranny (although OH )may need to get a new filter and oil...maybe a shift module??

To be honest it isn't running as hard as I was hoping for.... yet... it may need some other tweeking. I feel the "core" of the work done is solid...just sensors or minor adjustments... etc. I only have 45 miles on this OH so "break in" most likely isn't done.

thanks again

 

[rickcdewitt]

yeah i talked to charles and he said that all the cams are good for 4x4's.he talked about the cams in general and recommended the cam you have.he said to ask about it here for experiences.he could have been busy,i diden't talk to him very long.i should call back and ask about retaining low end torque.

 

[IMenriched]

yeah i talked to charles and he said that all the cams are good for 4x4's.he talked about the cams in general and ,i diden't talk to him very long.i should call back and ask about retaining low end torque.

the other thing id din't mention is I'm unclear as to what gear ratio I have in my punkins...they maybe fairly low 373 er so??? I yet to confirm what I have

if your going for low end... you may already be getting there just with your 410's and manual gear box which by nature will help the low end.
or do the stacked transferr cases theat are listed in teh tech library here.

hope that helps

 

[IMenriched]

still likes to run warm/hot

Running again....ya mentioned that already

it is official...I have no visable fuel filter??
IS it possible.... that on some rangers had the filter is included with the 2nd pump on the frame rail?? in the tank?? no splices where it may have been removed.

still likes to run warm/hot after 7-10 miles er so?? slow climb in temp.

thanks