How to: replace valve cover gaskets, fuel rail gaskets and lower intake gaskets

[97RangerXLT]

I used the orange / red rtv. For the intake bolts I used a bar style torque wrench. 20 bucks at Sears (but that was 20+ years ago...)

AJ

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 while sitting in my underwear

 

[MagicMexican]

I used ultra black.
I also used the torque wrench from Harbor Freight, worked just fine for me. Who knows how accurate it actually is, but it got the job done.

 

[brokenbolt]

For the lower gasket, do I need to put RTV on just the two ends, or on the 6 holes too?

 

[97RangerXLT]

I only put rtv in where the heads met the block if I recall correctly. (Been 6 years since I did this, I have slept since then lol) the lower intake that I used had silicone or neoprene mating surfaces and as long as you carefully and thoroughly clean any surface on the block /heads and intake, you should be fine.

The reason for extra rtv in the valley where the heads meet the block is because of slight mismatch in in the height of the metal of the head and block and that the gasket will not be bent sharply enough to fit in those corners flat up against the block/ heads.

That said, you can put a very light bead around the mating surfaces to help tack down the gaskets while you place the lower intake.

AJ

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 while sitting in my underwear

 

[detherth]

Is there a reason you replaced the thermostat? Is it prone to leaking or going bad? Thanks

 

[97RangerXLT]

Yeah, my tstat never got any way near 192*...so it was due and it is way easier to change with the intake out of the truck.

AJ

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 while sitting in my underwear

 

[detherth]

Alright, im looking at doing this on my 97 so just making sure.

 

[trubbleinmind]

Anyone have a source on that 1/4" plastic spacer for the fuel rail/lower manifold? I cracked mine and can't find any info on a part number or anything. I'd like to put it back together the way I found it.

 

[97RangerXLT]

That might be a dealership part... or a junkyard run. Depending on how bad and where the Crack is, you might be able to seal it with some rtv...good luck!

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 while sitting in my underwear

 

[trubbleinmind]

Thanks, I'll check with the dealership today. I might end up having to go the RTV route. Thanks for the reply and for the excellent write up - made this job way easier than it would have been otherwise.

 

[trubbleinmind]

The guy at the parts counter chuckled and said he'd be very surprised if he could track down the spacer. To his and my surprise, he found it, and they had one on the shelf! my lucky day. For anyone looking for this, it is referred to as a 3mm plastic spacer, part number F6TZ-9E436-C. It comes with the paper gaskets already glued to both sides.

I lucked out, it listed at $46 but he said it had been sitting there so long (probably at least a decade and 3 parts counter warehouse moves) he would sell it to me at net, $32. Better yet though, don't try to get cute with it and wind up breaking it. Remember, the paper gaskets are glued to the original, so be gentle with it when removing them.

 

[97RangerXLT]

Good to know, and thanks for the follow up and part number. And getting a discount is always good.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 while sitting in my underwear

 

[Dangerrangers]

Awesome

You are one smart man , I can't thank you enough?

 

[97RangerXLT]

thanks, and you are welcome

AJ

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 while sitting in my underwear

 

[enginepaul]

From a few posts back:
How do I remove that red wire?
That red line is not a wire, it's a vacuum line - just pull while twisting.

My intake upper on my '95 California 4.0 has a bend in the EGR tube after it goes int the manifold. You need to lift it up; tilt the rear higher and pull forward about 2".

The pic in the excellent instruction shows a straight EGR tube.