How to spend my tailgate money. Need locker/gear advice.

[Dirtman]

Ok so im definitely buying a locker/lsd with my new found tailgate money. I had my eyes on the powertrax lock right for a while because it's cheap and doesn't require taking the ring and pinion out.

BUT you can't use a notched cross pin on it and anything over 3.73 REQUIRES the notched pin so the "fix" is to grind the edge of a couple teeth on the ring gear. This has always made me iffy but I'm cheap so I was willing to do it. Now that I have 600 extra bucks I'm now considering other options.

I have 4.10s now but if I have to remove the ring and pinion and redo all that I'm going to 4.56 gears. I do not go off reading in my truck except for hard pack sand trails with the occasional sugar sand pit. It's a daily driver but I'm looking to make it more reliable in the snow. (Already have awesome snow tires and bed weight).

What lsd/locker fits the bill here? Gotta be tame on the street but help out a little with the one wheel peels in the snow. And I've now got about 1,100 to spend between gears and the locker.

 

[Shran]

Removing the carrier and ring gear is not really a big deal nor is grinding the teeth. I had to remove my front ring gear to install my Lock-right. Clean it up, put new lock-tite on the ring gear bolts, torque everything correctly, reassemble, no big deal. You don't have to set up gears or anything. If you're regearing the axle, there is ZERO reason to put a lock-right or other lunchbox locker in at all - get something better. Full carrier replacement is best, I'd be tempted to go with a factory trac-lock, or other limited slip in your case. I do not like driving mine on the street with a locker and it's even worse since it's in the front. Even in 2wd with the hubs locked, it is a bear to steer.

 

[scotts90ranger]

If you had a 31 spline 8.8 I'd say go Aussie, I love mine, forget it's there until I need it or on the rare occasion it ratchets that is noticeable...

For what it's worth I've ground out part of the tooth on a 4.10 geared 7.5" axle and on my new 5.13 gears for the 31 spline 8.8, the tooth grinding doesn't even touch the contact patch of the teeth so do NOT worry about that, I was weary but am WAY over it...

 

[19Walt93]

A Powertrax is god awful noisy, one of my former techs put one is his 4 cylinder 97 Ranger and it sounded like it was grinding itself to pieces turning corners in the parking lot but he ran it 160,000 miles. Detroit locker is similar. My Auburn Pro has good grip- breakaway torque with a Traction Lok is 20-40 lb/ft, the Pro is 140- but it's a metal cup and cone clutch that sheds fine metal particles in the gear oil so it has to be changed frequently. I just used a Yukon "aggressive" clutch type limited slip in the rear I'm building for my truck and I've heard good things about Torsen rears. An E locker would work great at low speeds but not for road use.

 

[Dirtman]

Yea I've decided against the powertrax lock rite since I can afford better now. I had an Auburn in my ramcharger and it worked great. Zero noise. If they make them for a 7.5 that would be my choice along with Yukon 4.56 gears.

 

[fastpakr]

Buy a used axle and swap in a full carrier unit while you're there. You can buy a Torsen for a 31 spline 8.8 for $325. Not a full locker, but it should last just about forever and be very mild on the street.

 

[Dirtman]

The thought crossed my mind but my rear is in beautiful shape, not a spec of rust and brand new brakes. I really dont wanna swap it out with a questionable JY axle and I have zero need for an 8.8 31 spline with a 2wd 4 cylinder truck. Plus I'd still be buying gears and an install/rebuild kit because there's no 4.56 factory gears.

So that's 300+ for gears, 300+ for the carrier, 150+ for a rebuild, probably need to rebuild the brakes on the JY axle so another 150. Plus 150 for the axle itself... that's over a grand. Where if I keep my axle all I need is a LSD carrier and gears.

 

[snoranger]

4.56s... What size tire are you running?

 

[Dirtman]

225/70/15 now with 4.10s. Going to 235/75/15.

Using the gear calculator 4.32 gears would be the equivalent gear needed with the new tires to keep the same overall ratio. (obviously 4.32 doesnt exist). 4.56 isn't that much bigger than 4.32 and I could use the extra umphf. Truck sees little highway use anyway.

 

[Shran]

I can totally relate, I have 235-75-15s on my daily driver ('88 4x4 4 cylinder) with 3.73's. It's less than ideal. 4.56's would be awesome, they would really help keep that little turd singing right along in its power band.

 

[snoranger]

225/70/15 now with 4.10s. Going to 235/75/15.

Using the gear calculator 4.32 gears would be the equivalent gear needed with the new tires to keep the same overall ratio. (obviously 4.32 doesnt exist). 4.56 isn't that much bigger than 4.32 and I could use the extra umphf. Truck sees little highway use anyway.

That makes sense... I think an Eaton M90 might be a better idea, but that’s just me.

 

[Dirtman]

I uhh have no idea what that is.

 

[Dirtman]

Ok googles, what's a supercharger gotta do with anything. I have a duratec... if anything I'd just turn it into an EcoBoost. Same engine.

 

[Ranger850]

I uhh have no idea what that is.

I think it is a contraption that forces spun air into the intake at a much higher volumes than factory intake.

 

[Dirtman]

Same thing an ecoboost head and turbo would do... 110 horsepower gain..


I think I could just steal parts off my moms edge.