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I got some dumb questions


Ozwynn

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what kind of transfer case would you have to run if your front axle was offset to the driver side and the rear axle was off set to the pass side?


Ok the desired set up is in black, the optional is that purplish color (was supposed to be red)

Is there a Transfer case that will give me my desired set up? if not, can a fixed yoke and a CV style joint be used for the optional?
 


Sevensecondsuv

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What, are you trying to put a front axle in the rear? For 4-wheel steering or what? Sounds kind of interesting...
 

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If you do that, beef up your transmission and engine mounts.

You'll be torquing the whole drivetrain on take-off, a LOT more than you would with a centered rear driveshaft.
 

Ozwynn

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What, are you trying to put a front axle in the rear? For 4-wheel steering or what? Sounds kind of interesting...

kinda .......... I don't want to give it away yet, may not be able to get the parts together. If it was a matter of just using a front axle in the back I would just use a Ford D60 in the back to get the offset to pass side and a GM D60 in the front to get the offset to the pass side and use a spicer model 18 or even my stock yota T-case. The axle I want to use front and back is only available as a driverside offset and there is no substitute front axle to put drop on the pass. side.

My next question, ofcource, whats the best ratio to set up the rear steering.
 
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Loanranger

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Crazy man. To answer your offset rear dif question, guys do it all the time in samurais running toyota axles, or at least they did before everybody started making the cut down versions. As for the transfercase with a ds front and a ps rear, I'm at a loss.
 

Mutant Pony

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I've always said "the only dumb question is one that isn't asked"
I don't have an answer though.
If you have a heavy equipment salvage yard in your area, you might try there. I've. seen something like that before, I just don't remember what.
 

Ozwynn

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If you can't go through it or around it, then go over it.

Wicked_Sludge

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theres a mid 90's chevy 1500 somewhere around here locally that is four steer. the rear was full hydro (only option really). i had a bunch of pics of it but my lady accidentally deleted them. next time i see it ill try to get some more (he only brings it out a few times a year for car shows.)
 

Ozwynn

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I don't really want to go full hydro, I don't really trust it, and I don't think it would work that well with an articulated rear axle. I have seen set-ups for 5 axle dump trucks with 2 steering axles and it was a mechanical linkage. these are 1:1 ratio though, I was thinking 4:1 front to back would be better for a tippy trail rig that occasionally sees the street.
 

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the good thing about full hydro is you can turn off the rear axle anytime you want (and the hydraulics will "lock" it). you could also create some type of mechanical lock if you dont trust the hydro going down the highway (if you blow a hose on the trail, no biggie, right?).

running a mechanical linkage all the way from the front of a truck, making a u-turn and running it back to the rear axle doesnt sound any safer or easier then full hydro (which lots of 4x4'ers run on the front with no problems), to me..but maybe thats just me.
 

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I don't really want to go full hydro, I don't really trust it, and I don't think it would work that well with an articulated rear axle. I have seen set-ups for 5 axle dump trucks with 2 steering axles and it was a mechanical linkage. these are 1:1 ratio though, I was thinking 4:1 front to back would be better for a tippy trail rig that occasionally sees the street.
If you're looking for a linkage to the rear, I would think something along the lines of a straight axle toyota or old dodge steering setup would be your ticket, with the draglink being parallel with the framerail. This would be quite the tough setup though to run from the front to rear. In my oppinion, the full hydro would be the best route for steering the rear axle, just mount the ram to the housing. You wouldn't have any problems this way with an articulated axle, this is the way the majority of the serious rockcrawlers and monster trucks run rear steer. Another option, though I don't know how strong it would be, would be to use one of the new Denali rear axles with its electronic rear steer.
 

Ozwynn

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If you can't go through it or around it, then go over it.
Another option, though I don't know how strong it would be, would be to use one of the new Denali rear axles with its electronic rear steer.
I thought of that. and it would solve my t-case problem. but thats a straight axle, and really difficult to get, I could build my whole set up for that axle costs around here.

I am not completely opposed to hydro. My problem with it is getting it back to center before turning it off and locking it.

If I do this, I will be using a modified K-Link front and back. so I guess full hydro could work, but I would need a serious steering box and power steering pump up-grade.

Wicked....... or anybody else for tat matter ........ if you have guessed what I am trying to do, then PM me instead of posting it.
 

Ozwynn

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Can sombody tell me why I couldn't use a model 18 behind (both outputs are to the pass side) a doubled 13-54? Then i would have a driver side drop for the front and a pass side drop for the back...... I could also shift the rear case into neutral and disengage the rear.
 

Loanranger

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Can sombody tell me why I couldn't use a model 18 behind (both outputs are to the pass side) a doubled 13-54? Then i would have a driver side drop for the front and a pass side drop for the back...... I could also shift the rear case into neutral and disengage the rear.
If you're saying what I think you're saying, you want to run the front driveline off the 1354 and the rear driveline off the 18? You're gearing would be all messed up, because you'd be running the front off just the 1354 gearing, and the rear off both the 1354 and 18 gearing. And if the 1354 were doubled, you'd just be compounding the problem.
 

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