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I need some basic Ranger 4x4 info


wooky1971

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I have had Ranger 4x4 sitting for a while. I dont recall if its a 1990 or 91. It has been changed over to the 4.0. I have decided to make it into an off road toy but I have a few questions. This is the first 4x4 I have owned so bear with me. First off how well does the ranger 4x4 running gear hold up. Im not going to do any serious rock crawling. Just go out and get muddy. Im concern that since the ranger is not a full size truck the 4x4 may be more "light duty".

I have no 4x4 experience but I do know mechanics. I also have welders (mig and stick) plasma cutter, tube benders, etc. What upgrades do I need to address first. Im guessing ground clearance it one also skid plates. Is there any inherent problems with the 4x4 ranger I need to know about.

Any info would be great.
 


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Danger #1. Rangers are addictively fun.

Read a bunch of threads here on TRS and you'll start to get a feel for these trucks. Then read through the "how to tech" articles and you'll get more ideas of ways to make the truck do what you want it to do. Many are inexpensive and easy.

Increasing ground clearance is a great step towards making a truck trail-worthy.

This message composed solely of recycled electrons. Go green!
 

pjtoledo

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Danger #2: refer to Danger #1.
 

mudfisher

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My stock 2010 ranger XLT 4x4 has gotten me places I never thought it would. Some of the places I had the feeling I really should not have been there. That was all part of the adventure.

First you gotta figure out what type of off roading you want to do:
- Trail(From smooth dirt roads to rocky passes)
- Desert Jumping
- etc

All my experience is with trail driving and overlanding adventures. You can youtube some of these places that I have taken a mostly stock 4x4 ranger down.
- Death Valley(Mengel Pass, Steel Pass/dedkara canyon, Lippencott Road)
- Mojave Road
- Joshua Tree(Old Dale Mine district)

Best advice is find a group of people who have off-road experience(spotting/picking lines through obstacles). Only do what you feel comfortable doing. Start with places that are easy and work your confidence up at your own pace.

Rangers have an advantage for being a smaller truck when it comes to off-roading compared to bigger trucks
- Maneuverability:
--Some times bigger trucks can't work their way around a big rock so they must go over it. Whereas, a ranger can get around it better then going over.
-- getting through narrow places that bigger trucks can't
- Off Camber:
--Getting up on an angle and not tilting over as easy as a bigger truck or jeep.

Don't go alone and always pack for an overnight stay.
Slow and steady saves your vehicle when working your way up and down rocky paths.
 
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You’ll have a TTB (twin traction beam) front suspension and axle setup. Very tough. Count the bolts on the differential housing. If it has 12 bolts, it’s a Dana 28. If it has 10 bolts is a Dana 35. I have the 35 in mine, 35 is a stronger diff/axle. If you have a 28, maybe be on the lookout for a 35 at a decent price.

Also the rear axle, a limited slip or locker will go a long way in performance, as well as decent tires (obviously). If you have a 7.5 rear end, just upgrade to the 8.8. If you already have an 8.8, get a locker or limited slip and have fun.

The way you tell the difference between those is the 8.8 has flat sides with rounded corners. On a 7.5, the diff housing sides are curved, but the top and bottom are flat. I have a 7.5, but will be upgrading to an explorer 8.8 as soon as it gives out.

Good luck and have fun! :beer:
 

Captain Ledd

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The running gear is actually pretty solid. For a 90/91 it's actually leftover design from the 70's, when trucks were trucks. Lighter duty than a fullsize? sure, but it's still surprisingly strong and will hold up fine so long as you don't do stupid stuff. For that matter, it doesn't matter what it is, if you like doing stupid stuff it won't hold up.

It should be a D35, as mentioned above. As far as major weaknesses, without getting REALLY into things there's only two main weak points, and another that is just a different spec.

1. Full circle snap rings on the u-joints. Since you're competent at mechanics and they're often neglected, pull the shafts, check the u-joints and when re-installing, get the Dremmel out and grind back where the c-clip goes (yes, it can all be done with a Dremmel). There's a full write up here:

https://www.therangerstation.com/how-to/axles/dana-35-u-joint-upgrade/

2. Better hubs. While not necessary, you can run the ones you have until they pop, Warn makes a good upgrade unit. Busted lockouts/hubs generally disappear with this upgrade:

https://www.therangerstation.com/how-to/axles/warn-jeep-hubs-for-the-dana-35/

3. Spindle nuts. Sometimes they work themselves loose, side effect of being so close together. The answer? Tighten them more. No really. Spec for the outer nut is something like 160-170 lb/ft? Instead torque them to 200 or if you can muster, 220lb/ft. That keeps things going better/longer. Alternatively, there are these options if that proves to be a problem:

https://www.therangerstation.com/how-to/axles/wheel-bearings-lock-nuts/

or

https://www.therangerstation.com/how-to/axles/dana-35-jeep-locknut-upgrade/

But for right now, I'd just do the circlip mod. Gives a good check of the front end and is fairly cheap with the exception of replacing joints and time.

As for the transfer case, they're pretty strong. Known to hold up to V8 abuse. The electric shift ones are prone to having their electronics contaminated and stop working. As far as I know, there hasn't been any solutions as to a shield or cover to keep the motor clean. The manual shift cases are sound and all are mechanically good to go though.

Edit: Oh yeah, and welcome to the world of Rangers. They're awesome little trucks.
 
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wooky1971

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Thanks everyone for the information. This gives me a good place to start. I tried to do a search of the forums but my questions were so general I did not have any luck. I now know I need to spend some time searching the tech articles. Thanks again.
 

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