Ignition Switch Wiring

[Conehead396]

I am helping my father in law with his new project (2003 Mazda B2300) and need help with the ignition switch wiring. I assume it is the same switch as the Ranger. 50 amp fuse under the hood is OK, lights, chimes, blower motor etc. work. Starter will not work with key. There is no power to Fuse #24 which if I read correct should be hot when the key is turned to start. If I jump 12 volts to the red and blue wire coming out of the switch I do get power to fuse #24. With this jumper in place I can jump across the solenoid and the starter will spin.
I have replace both the ignition switch and the key cylinder. I have 4 hot wires coming into the switch, but do not know if that is the right number. Anybody have the wiring diagram or suggestions.

Thanks.

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

Yes, one yellow wire comes from the 50amp fuse(#11) and splits into 4 yellow wires at the ignition switch

Yes, with ignition switched in START position, its sends 12v out to fuse #24 on a red/blue wire
The key cylinder uses a gear and pulls and pushes the Actuator rod inside the steering column to slide the ignition switch into its 4 positions, ACC, OFF, RUN, START

Can you test the ignition switch manually?
You could have a problem with Actuator Rod not moving ignition switch all the way to START position

That same red/blue wire also sends power to fuse #28 which should MUTE the radio for startup

 

[Conehead396]

Tha is for the diagrams. By testing manually are you saying to remove the switch and move the slide rod by hand?

 

[RonD]

Disconnect battery

Yes, you can use an OHM meter to see if red/blue wire and Yellow wire connection have 0 OHMs, direct connection, when switch is in START

After switch is out, you can hook battery back up and test all 4 Yellow wires for 12v, they are live all the time
And also test if fuse 24 gets 12v in START if possible

Unhook battery to put switch back in

 

[Conehead396]

Thanks, I did take the switch back out and manually operate it, at that point I got 12 volts to fuse 24 and to the White/pink at the clutch switch. Had volts on all 4 yellow wires also. Still nothing at battery. Guess next step is to bypass the clutch switch. Any idea on which wire to hook to the white/pink for the bypass. Too darn hot in Virginia to keep messing with it today.

Assuming I get the switch bypassed, I am then back to the key not operating the switch completely, and both are new???
Thanks again for the quick responses.

 

[RonD]

Diagram here: https://ww2-secure.justanswer.com/uploads/xsvectOR/2011-01-26_193046_1a.gif

Pins/wires, at 5 and 6 are connected together when clutch pedal is down all the way

So in 2003 the white/pink and Pink wires are connected to by-pass clutch switch, pink wire "can be" tan/red wire at the clutch switch in 2003

The Pink wire turns to tan/red wire at the firewall and then runs to starter relay in engine fuse box


You know 2003 Ranger has PATS(passive anti-theft system), which disables starter relay in engine fuse box if wrong key is used to try and start engine
You would get rapid flashing "lock light" in the instrument cluster if this happens

 

[Mike92STX]

RonD, is there any chance the wiring diagrams you posted for a 2003 Mazda are the same for a 2004 Ranger?

 

[RonD]

No, 2004 had some big changes, GEM(behind radio) was replaced by SJB(smart junction box) in passenger kick panel, and cab fuse box was relocated to there as well, part of SJB

 

[Mike92STX]

RonD,
Thank you very much sir! My problem isn't as serous as his, everything works when the truck is running but the radio won't work with the key in the acc. position. I replaced the ignition switch and it didn't make a difference.

 

[RonD]

There are 3 2004 radio wiring diagrams here: https://therangerstation.com/tech_library/radio_wiring_diagrams.shtml

Looks like fuse #6 would be where to test, it should have power in RUN and ACC, this turns on the radio

Just FYI, Fuse #21 has power in START and that MUTES the radio, radio would be on but no sound

Fuse #24 has power all the time, it holds correct Clock time and Presets, it doesn't power the radio part

Just looking at the wiring diagrams, looks like fuse #5 and #6 should both have power in ACC
#5 is for wipers, do wipers work in ACC?

 

[Mike92STX]

I had to check and the wipers don't work in acc. I checked fuse #6 a while ago but it's fine. I thought the radio wouldn't work at all if Fuse #6 was bad? I think I checked all the fuses in the box behind the kick panel on the passenger side. The reason I'm confused is everything works in run but nothing works in acc. I even tried both forward and backward of the off or key out position. Hopefully you understand my description of key positions. The clock on the radio maintains the correct time so the power for that is good. Sorry if I'm skipping around but I don't want to forget anything that might make a difference.
Thank again for your help.

 

[RonD]

Fuse #6 is not getting power in ACC so its a wiring issue, since you already replaced ignition switch under the steering column I am not sure what else it could be, it just shows the one wire to fuses 5 and 6

In diagram 1 of 2004 the black/light green stripe wire should have power in RUN or ACC, I guess I would check that 1st and maybe pull out the ignition switch again and test OHMs on the contacts, B5 Yellow is where 12volts comes from in ACC

Or test the old ignition switch first

 

[Mike92STX]

Not sure if I did it correct, I check the old ignition switch with continuity between B5 and A1 and my meter beep so I think that means it's working. I did think to move the switch all the way to the end of the switch. Hopefully that was the right way to test it. Weather is going to get bad enough so I won't be able to test much in the truck. I guess the weather isn't a good excuse because were you are has got to be colder than it is in northern Illinois.

 

[RonD]

Warm up the truck first......................Then


You could pull out the key cylinder, then use a screw driver to turn the gear to ACC position and see if Radio/wipers work
It could be the actuator rod is not pulling the ignition switch far enough to connect B5 and A1

Could just need an adjustment, but I have never tried to adjust one,

The key rotates a gear like this: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/500x274/0996b43f802308b4_190e1617fd005fe45433e864a63d9ee1343a526d.gif

And that slides the actuator rod: https://ww2-secure.justanswer.com/uploads/apjp02/2012-01-16_001934_ford-rack-actuator.jpg

Which moves the ignition switch into its 4 positions

 

[Mike92STX]

I thought about that, I was looking on line and YouTube on how to replace the actuator rod and that looked like a lot of work since most of the things the switch does work. I wonder if there was a way to test the position on the ignition switch. I was going to try taking out the switch and moving it manually but no sure if it was possible. The was you described sounds like it would be easier, don't have to crawl under the dash.
Thanks again
Mike