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Long bed conversion - compatible frame years


A1957

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I’m interested in adding a long bed to my 2011 2wd Ranger Sport Supercab. I can get a clean 2000 2wd Ranger long bed standard cab pickup complete for $750 with a bad engine.
Are the 2000 and 2011 frames the same width where they split in two? I know I’ll still have to add 6” to the joint. I’m just hoping this donor is compatible so I can jump on it. Any place I can get details on the frames?
Thanks in advance for your help.
 


rusty ol ranger

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I think the frames were all the same from 98-11.

Possibly even 93-11 minus the I beam bracketry.
 

A1957

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Thanks. I think I’ll jump on the deal. I’ve always wanted the Super cab/long bed combo.
 

racsan

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ive always wanted to try that too, but its alot of effort to gain 1 ft of bed space. i am wondering though about combining a sport trac with a longbed ranger, im sure those frame widths would be diffrent though.
 

adsm08

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I think the frames were all the same from 98-11.

Possibly even 93-11 minus the I beam bracketry.
98 to 11 are mostly the same. Major changes happened in 98. Body swapping is possible, if complicated, but the frames are not the same.
 

A1957

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I just want to use the rea section that supports the long bed. And add 6” behind the cab. I’m hoping all the rear suspension bracktry is the same too as I would rather have my 2011 rear ending/suspension rather than the 2000 same. If only for miles and wear and tear.
 

don4331

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Both of mine were 4x4s but I don't think there are any differences to your 4x2 other than brake line and springs.

Run truck until gas tank more/less empty.

Remove both beds; remembering to disconnect wiring and fuel filler (there's a duh moment in there); removing tailgate makes them lighter. I prefer 4 people - one on each corner, but my son and I have done it with just 2 of us, and I have done it myself with help from engine crane. Beds stand nicely front end, using tarp to prevent scratches against driveway during mods.

Remove spare, bumper, trailer hitch (if applicable), disconnect charcoal canister both vapour line and electrical, differential wiring, parking brake cable, brake line* and driveshaft. *On the truck without ABS, I just drained the brake fluid into coke bottle as fluid could use replacement anyways. For the truck with ABS, picked up a brake line plug.

Jack up truck, put front frame on jack stands, remove rivets (I grind an "X" into head, then remove rest of head with cold chisel and BFH. Then using BFH and punch, remove the rest). With frame sections separated, I roll the rear away, carefully threading wires and hoses out.

Repeat for other truck. Cut 6" of the long bed cab frame to extend the SC frame. Now, at this point, you could make a regular cab short bed, but I have never had parts. Trucks I was working with had had a "event" on front of long bed and one on box/rear frame on the SC cab, so I took pieces I needed and hauled rest to Bucks Auto for store credit. Specific pieces I took being wiring and fuel filter.

Driveshaft was dropped off at local shop and they extended it 6". 6" section from LB welded to SC frame with appropriate fish plates as per Ford's frame extension manual. LB rear frame installed on extended SC frame. Bolted together with bolts as per Ford frame repair manual.

Now, I shuffled the gas tank back 6" so it lined up with filler and used a "dummy", aka guts removed, fuel filter to extend the line as that meant the lines for the charcoal canister just "worked". I extended wiring to fuel pump/gauge, rear axle & charcoal canister by 6" and to rear disconnect 12". My 4x4 is lifted 4", so I inserted a 12" extension in brake lines just to be safe, you should be able to get away with 6" extension. I worked with a garage door shop to build the emergency cable (way more work than it was worth, but it looks professional).

Now, the mad scientist part: I replaced the Ranger springs with Chev K-1500 springs. They are ~6-1/4" longer which allows me to leave the front hangers bolted into original holes on the SC frame section - meaning if the welds fail, the truck buckles, but all the pieces stay together while having tire more/less in correct spot in fender wells. The Chevy springs are a lot stiffer, but nothing that can't be solved by strategically pulling a leaf or 2. The Chev 5+1 springs are also only 1/2" greater in curvature, so only raises truck by about 75% of that (the extra 50 lbs on rear axle takes away some)- you have to measure with tape to see delta.

Jack up, remove jack stands and lower onto wheels, bleed brakes. Bolt the box (connect fuel filler and lights), bumper, hitch, etc on, install spare and show off your work.

Hope the above helps.
 

A1957

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Wow! Thanks for this.
Although, like a TV car show, you make it sound like it could be finished by lunch.
 

adsm08

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Wow! Thanks for this.
Although, like a TV car show, you make it sound like it could be finished by lunch.
By lunch? You should be done with all that and an oil change by 10:30.
 

rusty ol ranger

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adsm08

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And not even get dirty!
I went to school with a guy who worked at a BMW dealership and their uniforms were white, and if they got dirty they had to go change.

That always seemed like they must not have been working to me.
 

rusty ol ranger

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My credo
A legend to the old man, a hero to the child...
I went to school with a guy who worked at a BMW dealership and their uniforms were white, and if they got dirty they had to go change.

That always seemed like they must not have been working to me.
How do you work in anything and not get dirty?

I can see if its grease/old oil/whatever thats coating 90% of these old trucks...but surely BMWs get driven thru salt, grime, and mud dont they?
 

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