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More Dana 35 bullsh*t


Dirtman

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Looks like a cast aluminum bronze to me. Not fun to weld. Need ER-AlCu a1 rod, AC frequency with heavy cleaning, and a good pre and post heat. Brazing will just crack off by the time it cools.
 


kunar

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Wire wheel the pumpkin where the beam and pinch bolt touch it. Put it back together and forget about it. Seriously, i've run one like this many years and many miles, no worries. The pinch bolt still does its job.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Cleaned it up. Nice big pinhole right in the bottom. it was still holding fluid, though.

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_20191203_200556.JPG
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Drill and tap the pin hole for a pipe plug?
 

sgtsandman

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Looks like you bought yourself a nice, big old paper weight...

EDIT: The tapping for a drain plug isn't a bad idea. Make lemon Aid out of lemons.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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At this point, I'm hoping someone counterattacks my trebuchet barrages with D35 housings. This is some serious bullsh*t.

Paid $150 for a frame section and engine. So far, the only good part is the new clutch that was on the 4.0
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Looks like you bought yourself a nice, big old paper weight...

EDIT: The tapping for a drain plug isn't a bad idea. Make lemon Aid out of lemons.
I believe the pin hole is on top.
When I took a pre-app diesel mech course, one of the ways to repair a cracked block was to drill and tap for pipe plugs. Each succeeding plug cut into the one beside it locking it in place. I don't remember what was done to lock the last one in place.
 

sgtsandman

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I believe the pin hole is on top.
When I took a pre-app diesel mech course, one of the ways to repair a cracked block was to drill and tap for pipe plugs. Each succeeding plug cut into the one beside it locking it in place. I don't remember what was done to lock the last one in place.
Damn it! I was hoping that was the bottom. Thanks for the explanation though. That makes sense.
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Yeah... wait... I thought that was the bottom as well...

FlOoReD, did you get into my stash or something??
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Hmm, I have been feeling a little woozy. Maybe the pain pills are finally kicking in.... I was positive I read in your post that the pin hole was on top, but I just checked and nope, you said bottom. Oh well, let me crawl back into bed and I'll shut my pie hole....
 

sgtsandman

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It goes into the bolt hole for the diff cover. I call no joy. Unless you really shorten the bolt to allow the plug to fit.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Use a brass plug then. Carefully dremel the part sticking into the bolt hole and then tap it. Maybe at the same time elongate the bolt hole so it can be used as a drain?
 

Dirtman

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I poop in the furnace.
Grind that thing into powder and turn it into thermite.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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At this point, I'm hoping someone counterattacks my trebuchet barrages with D35 housings. This is some serious bullsh*t
I can only counter attack with D28 chunks...

I guess I would try to find a way to stabilize the oxidation, goober a little JB weld in the hole so it doesn't collect stuff and continue doing its thing and go. It might have been a casting defect from day 1, it seems like an odd way for something to rot out. Do run a pinch bolt though, there have been reports of people running without them and cracking axle beams. I don't see one missing flange for the pinch bolt being a big deal.
 

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