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2.3L ('83-'97) Need Help Picking Out Turbo Setup Parts


REDtheIII

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Jan 30, 2024
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Location
Graham, WA
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Hey there, I need some help understanding/deciding on a few things. I have a 93 with the 2.3, dual spark head. Bone stock as of posting.

Now I'll be the first to admit I'm in a little over my head, but what I stand to gain is worth the effort.

I'm looking to get a standalone ECU going as it will make a turbo setup 900% easier. I have been eyeing up the PIMPx from Stinger (PIMPx link), but I don't know how/if I can keep my stock gauge cluster working. I'm also unsure if I need to, or will need to, use the replacement harness for it (Harness link).

I have 2 different turbo kits in mind, just not sure which would be the best option. I also don't know where to tap for feed/drain lines. Turbo Kit 1 Turbo Kit 2

For right now, just looking to run 5-7 psi to break into the triple digits, like 140ish. Later, once I've ironed out the kinks in my setup, I'll be throwing in pistons and rods, and pushing 12-14 psi for 200ish hp.

I have a 7.5 L/S, will be swapping to an 8.8 before I do big power.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 


scotts90ranger

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Location
Dayton Oregon
Vehicle Year
1990, 1997
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.3 Turbo
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6
Tire Size
35"
No idea on standalone, it's on the list but not high up...

Kit likely doesn't matter much, the manifold matters most if you are trying to use A/C or not...

For supply the stock tees in for oil at the oil pressure sender on the back of the head so that should be fine, for drain you could drill the block just above the pan rail under the exhaust manifold or the top of the oil pan, either will work.

Pistons are going to be your weak spot, turbo rods are the same as N/A, they were all the same up until the 2.5 with the longer stroke... and the crank and rods will support into the 300hp range. Pistons are spendy, I didn't find any in my price range 5 or so years ago when I put my last one together...

the 7.5 will be fine, they ran those in V8 mustangs for many years... I'm running an 8.8 since I'm running 35" tires and 5.13 gears...
 

REDtheIII

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Joined
Jan 30, 2024
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Graham, WA
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
No idea on standalone, it's on the list but not high up...
What do you mean by not high up?

Kit likely doesn't matter much, the manifold matters most if you are trying to use A/C or not...
Both kits I'm looking at have the turbo header, and I don't have A/C to begin with. The intake manifold should be fine, yeah?

Thank you for the info on oil routing. And I forgot about the rods/crank being stout, I'm used to 3v stuff where the rods go under any boost and the pistons crack at 450ish.
Gonna be a lot cheaper to only need pistons this time around. Keeping my 7.5 will be nice, just got a limited slip one so that will save some headache.

Thanks for all the info man, helps a bunch.
 

scotts90ranger

Well-Known Member
RBV's on Boost
Joined
Feb 28, 2001
Messages
8,038
Reaction score
4,372
Points
113
Location
Dayton Oregon
Vehicle Year
1990, 1997
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.3 Turbo
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6
Tire Size
35"
Not high on my list of to do's :), it's about 3 miles long/tall and it runs now so no reason to change it...

Intake doesn't matter, they were basically the same other than what they changed between intake pattern changes. For mild boost you might be ok with stock injectors but a size or two bigger wouldn't hurt...
 

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