No Crank No Start After Stereo Install

[KingOfCatan]

Hello all, I am new to this forum and ranger ownership. If this is the wrong place to post this please let me know where the correct place to post is, thanks

I have installed multiple after market stereos before and never messed up, but this is what I get for moving too fast. So the new wiring harness (Pioneer DMH241-EX) had only one switched power wire, whereas the ford factory harness had two (one, a hot during run. the other, a hot while starting). I assumed, and was promptly made an ass, but I just hooked them all together assuming they were the same. The truck started normal, ran for about 30 seconds while I messed around with audio settings, then died. All of the electronics work however(stereo, lights, speakers, blower) So far, I have disconnected and dead ended the hot in start wire(red/black) and replaced the starter relay. Still no crank, no start, no click, no nothing. I just figured I'd post here before investing in expensive test equipment or digging into the starter. Thank you!

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

Yes the "Hot in START" wire was to MUTE Ford Radios, so you don't use that wire and make sure it can't short to ground

In a 2002 Ranger Fuse 24 in the cab fuse box powers that wire, and starter relay when key is turned to START
7.5amp fuse, check it
Diagram is incorrect, not fuse 28 in 2002, should be fuse 24


In any case the Green/purple wire is full time 12v to keep clock and pre-sets in memory(fuse 29)
The Yellow/black wire is Key On or Key Acc 12v power

Just FYI
There is no Reverse Hot wire in the cab, you need to tap into the Reverse light wire at the transmission or at the rear of the truck

 

[Uncle Gump]

I edited out the F bomb in your first post. The site rules don't allow foul language. Just keep that in mind going forward and enjoy the site.

If you have checked for hot in start power at the relay... does the relay click? No... I would probably pull the starter and have a look. You may have spun it to death.

 

[KingOfCatan]

Thank you for fixing the language, my apologies. I went and double checked all the fuses again and everything is as it should be. No blown fuses and I am getting voltage at the relay. I'll pull the starter and post some updates in the next couple of days.

Since the starter solenoid and the starter are connected are there ways to test them independently? Or do I just replace both and hope i don't waste money. Again, very grateful for this forum and look forward to hopefully paying it forward in the future.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Bench test it once out. Or have it tested at your local parts store.

Before dropping it out... I would test for the crank signal at the solenoid. If good... the battery cable and starter are all that's left.

 

[RonD]

Starter circuit is as follows

Key in START
12v---Fuse 24---------Neutral switch----------starter relay-------PATS Ground

PATS must Ground the starter relay in engine fuse box, or no "click"
Automatic trans must be in Park or Neutral or no "click"
Try Neutral

12v--starter relay----starter solenoid----grounded to engine

12v---starter solenoid----starter motor--grounded to engine

On the starter solenoid the battery positive cable is connected to a larger post
Starter motor Positive is connected to another larger post
Example here: https://www.huntparts.ca/cdn/shop/products/1-03272-2_87235f57-ff9c-4d8a-881c-c9e8a0c5e864.jpg?v=1679686869

The larger post on the lower right is the positive wire for starter motor
Other larger post on the left is where battery positive cable would be connected

Smaller post on the top is the wire from the starter relay in the engine fuse box
When the smaller post has 12volts it does 2 things, because it's a "solenoid", which means it moves something, like a valve or a rod, in this case it moves the starter motor's gear OUT to engage the ring gear on the engine
But it ALSO connects the 2 larger posts together activating the starter motor AFTER the gear is engaged

Diagram here: http://www.uspickup.com/Content/upload/2017182304/201709050840552879415.png

Jumper cables are good for these tests
If you ground the case of the starter motor to battery negative
And then give small post 12volts the solenoid should click closed and gear should move out, repeat a few times

If you then give the starter motor's large post 12volts starter should spin, be careful it has a lot of torque, lol, it will jump, repeat a few times

That's the way you test both