Only 1 of 2 bolts holding Alternator...

[rogerranger2122]

2006 Honda pilot (sorry I know this is a ford forum but hoping for some insight anyway, not my car.).

I have a 20" breaker bar that couldn't even budge the OEM torque so I tapped it with a hammer and they came out. They were surprisingly tight compared to things I've removed on my ford ranger (which is plagued with rust and seized bolts etc). The Pilot has cables and hoses in the way of the 2 bolts that hold the alternator and I could only get about 1/8 turn before I had to remove the socket and breaker bar and reposition it (plus I had to pull the socket off and rotate it because it was a 6-point and wouldn't line up).

I had the new alternator installed and just needed to tighten down the 2 main bolts using the 20" breaker bar. Since it was such a short travel of the breaker bar (1/8th turn) I couldn't really get a feel for how tight the bolts were, but they certainly didn't feel nearly as tight as the OEM installation so I kept on tightening them - then one cracked. I nearly flipped when I realized there's probably no clearance to drill out the remaining cracked bolt in order to get an extractor bit on it and even if I did it would be a nightmare of an angle - was thinking it would need to be towed to shop and have engine hoisted and bolt extracted.

But I think it's fine, do you? :::
The bottom bolt is installed fine as it should be, it's the upper bolt that cracked.
As shown in picture, there's a small gap RED LINE between the alternator's bracket (BLUE CIRCLE) and I don't know what the other part is called on the left of the red line. The alternator is the YELLOW STAR.
Basically when the serpentine belt is installed and car is running, the alternator hinges towards the red line because of the pressure, BUT now it's simply being held by the part on the left of the red line. That part is metal even though it has a black plastic cover. So now the alternator can not just pivot/hinge back because this part is thankfully right there. The gap in the red line is only about 1/4" when installed without a cracked bolt but now the alternator is hinged back about only 1/4", so I think it's fine.

Here's the video I took this screenshot from if needed. Thanks

I mean, I would like to remove the cracked bolt but doesn't seem practical.

 

[snoranger]

I watched part of the video... did you break the upper alt bolt that attaches the alt to the bracket or the bolt that attaches the bracket to the engine? (There are 2 "upper" bolts he removed.)

 

[rogerranger2122]

Luckily the bolt that cracked is the one that connects the bracket (BLUE CIRCLE) to the frame. So, as mentioned the plate which is holding the alternator is pressing forward and being held in place by the part on the left of the red line. The bolt that connects the alternator to that bracket is not broke.

I really lucked out that that part is there on the left of the red line.

 

[91stranger]

Gotta love when an "easy" job turns out to be much worse. I'm still trying to figure out how to get a rounded 13mm oil drain plug out. I think drilling it out will be my best bet..... yay holding a drill at an awkward angle on the ground for long periods of time while more than likely breaking every 1/8th drill bit.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Gotta love when an "easy" job turns out to be much worse. I'm still trying to figure out how to get a rounded 13mm oil drain plug out. I think drilling it out will be my best bet..... yay holding a drill at an awkward angle on the ground for long periods of time while more than likely breaking every 1/8th drill bit.

Have you tried an easy out meant for bolts, its a socket.

 

[rogerranger2122]

it's too far down to reach with a regular ratchet. I just recently bought this 20" breaker bar, normally I would have used a ratchet with a pipe over it to reach this but that's awkward and could break the ratchet considering how tight they were.
Forgot to mention though, yes the correct way would have been a ratchet with a foot pounds limiter set, which I could have borrowed I just found out, but anyway I'm not worried about the overall alternator situation though so it's all good.


91stanger, I used a grinder to make 2 flat sides of rounded bolts and then got a wrench on them. My ranger is plagued with rust and taking some bolts out is a nightmare and needed this since they rounded off. ..If you could fit the angle grinder. Lots of other ways for stuck bolts though, welding, drilling, torching, tapping, soaking with liquid wrench etc. but yes could be a nightmare....

 

[pjtoledo]

Gotta love when an "easy" job turns out to be much worse. I'm still trying to figure out how to get a rounded 13mm oil drain plug out. I think drilling it out will be my best bet..... yay holding a drill at an awkward angle on the ground for long periods of time while more than likely breaking every 1/8th drill bit.

try a small pipe wrench. get the bolt head as far into the jaws as possible.

 

[black_demon69]

https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-BOLT-GRIP-5-Pack-Bolt-Extractor-Set/1000363541

Or this

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Yeah, that's what I was trying to describe.