Pilot Bearing Removal

[Josh B]

I recently pulled my transmission (after the throw-out bearing dismantled itself in front of a store, and having to get a friend to pull me home, about 10 or 12 miles on mostly dirt back roads, thankfully all the pieces were already in place, but this was supposed to been just "one more trip to town"). Anywho, I had the kits all ready for the clutch and slave cylinder, but wound up having to get another friend to bring a master cylinder. Had already got the loaner tools for whatever it was, including a pilot bearing removal tool, which did not work, it was just too thick to fit in there and grab the bearing, so I completed that episode by leaving the old pilot in place.

It turned out that wasn't the only problem, because after getting it apart and replacing the clutch, master cylinder and slave cylinder, it still had problems, likely a bad bearing inside the transmission, most likely a forward bearing because it has problems through 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears, noises, friction, and boggs, but into 4th and 5th it rides smooth at highway speeds.
I purchased a rebuilt transmission from a company in Mn and it has arrived (that's another "short:" story in itself) so I am getting ready to pull it down again to install the rebuilt one.

After searching for info the best I found was this article at https://www.therangerstation.com/how-to/transmission-transfer-case-driveshaft/pilot-bearing-replacement/ which stated only this for the option of "other options" ( I had just today seen the 1st option at a parts store which has loaner tools, but the one they both noted was about $90, and is not available as a "loaner" )

"Another option:
Put the flywheel on two wood blocks and tap the bearing out with a socket and a light hammer (no bigger than a standard claw hammer) from the backside of the flywheel. Use the largest size socket that is smaller than the bearing ‘s outer diameter. "

"From the Backside of the flywheel" ?
That's my question, it probably wouldn't been mentioned had it not meant something, I'm just wondering what it meant.
Is the Back side of the flywheel pointed towards the Rear axle when installed, or is the backside of the flywheel towards the engine as you remove it from the crankshaft?
I'm guessing it's the side that the bearing is farthest from, namely the front side, pointed towards the front axle.

I replaced the original flywheel with a new one 12 or 14 years and over 100,000 miles ago(picture in my profile). I'm somewhat aware of the resurfacing/&shimming route, which is why I chose to just replace it then. (I've kept the original, so I suppose if I went that route would likely use that one with the shims, although machine shops aren't nearly as common where I live now)
Should I replace it again with another new one(pushing that clutch so far into the floor isn't quite as easy as it used to be) or get the original resurfaced and shim it?

Thank you all in advance for any helpful suggestions

 

[Bird76Mojo]

If the flywheel surface isn't glazed, then I'd reuse it as-is. It's probably best to have it resurfaced though because it's bound to be glazed over. You shouldn't have to shim anything.

The pilot bearing/bushing can often be removed by packing the hole with grease and using a tool that fits the hole (where the input shaft would normally go) tightly and driving it in. The grease drives out the pilot bearing via hydraulic pressure. If that doesn't work then Harbor freight has a decent internal bearing puller slide hammer that works well. I've used mine for pilot bearings and stubborn rear axle bearings as well, so it's worth having..

 

[Josh B]

Thanks Bird. The man helping to order the parts yesterday also suggested that method, I told him I had seen it done on a tv show once but couldn't remember any details of that "how-to" but you just cleared it up and I thank you for that.

Now at least there's another option to try when I get in there, and think I could make that work, maybe even forego pulling the flywheel

I had it down a few weeks ago and put a new clutch, pressure plate, and slave cylinder in but still found it to have deeper problems, hence the rebuilt transmission that got here Friday, plus a wrecking yard special which turned out to have the wrong output shaft but appears to have been rebuilt and looks good inside. I'm thinking it will make a decent donor when I get the original out and prepare it as a spare

 

[ericbphoto]

You can whittle a stick to use as the "tool" that you hammer in to hydraulicly push out the pilot bearing. I made one from a brass rod. But a wooden dowel should work fine.

 

[Josh B]

Thanks Eric, I'll probly just count on getting it out that way.
I am wondering about force required to get it moving. Although I have numerous hammer options, it will be on jack-stands with possibly limited elbow room, does it require a lot force to get it moving?
I can't remember how it got in there in 2006-early 07. The flywheel was new, likely from Oreilly's if I remember that correctly. I'm not sure if it came preinstalled or what

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

It doesn't take much force with the grease method. I've also used the whittled down wooden dowel trick, it works good.

 

[Dirtman]

Bread works too...

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

But grease has better flavor.

 

[ericbphoto]

Bacon grease tastes good and is environmentally friendly.