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Pimped out parts washer


Everlearn

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So as I started taking the Ranger apart it became obvious I'd need a bigger parts washer. Have a little tiny one I bought years ago, I think it's a 5 gallon or something like that. Not big enough for things like intakes and other cruddy stuff I'm having to re-use for the long block, so I picked up a 20gal Harbor Freight special with a 20% off coupon. Ended up costing right at $80 with tax. Started looking around and found lots of postings showing various mods, which got the creative juices flowing. I intend to run a non-aqueous solvent, PSC-1000, available at Tractor Supply, so the pond pump that comes with the parts washer was the first to go. A solvent compatible Little Giant will go in the sump. I also wanted to have a brush as well as the regular flex nozzle that comes with the parts washer. I wanted to be able to heat the solvent to 100 degrees F or so to enhance the action. Also on the list of mods was to install some kind of filter to keep the solvent clean. I should have paid more attention to the size of the filter I got on Amazon. It's HUGE, but its a 10 micron hydraulic filter, came with the head, $58 for the whole thing. I want to be able to hold 4-5" of solvent for extended soak, and be able to circulate solvent in the wash tank from the holding sump and back. Between Lowes, Amazon and eBay, I put together a bunch of bits and pieces to get where I want to go. First task, get it up on wheels so I can move it around. A piece of 3/4 plywood and some salvaged casters got it up and mobile. The shelf that came with the washer was dropped down to cover the plywood. Next was a reservoir for holding solvent. After a couple of tries, found that a Rubbermaid Roughneck 20 gallon tub just fits inside the legs. It's also made of a plastic that's solvent resistant. Got a Little Giant solvent pump, a 1200w stick heater, electronic thermostat, float switch, power switches, a couple of bulkhead fittings, and other bits together. Today, I started the mods. The rest of the bits will be here Tuesday. Stick heater will go in the sump thru a stainless bulkhead fitting. The float switch will keep the heater from coming on if the sump level gets too low. The electronic thermostat will be backed up by a 110v lower thermostat off a 10 gallon water heater to keep the system from overheating. An explosion proof sealed LED flood light is going on the underside of the lid. Three switches will control heat, light, and pump.
IMG_5922.JPG


3/4 bulkhead fitting will have a 5" tall 3/4" copper standpipe so I can soak and circulate the solvent.

IMG_5921.JPG


Ball valve on the existing drain. Bulkhead drain and tank drain are T'eed together, will drain into the sump.

IMG_5920.JPG


20 gallon Rubbermaid Brute sump.

IMG_5918.JPG

Nozzle that came with the washer mounted on one side, manifold in the middle, brush goes on the other side

IMG_5917.JPG

Manifold lets me run nozzle, brush, or both.


IMG_5919 (1).jpg


Giant filter. It'll be mounted sideways between the tank and the sump
 
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PetroleumJunkie412

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I did the oil.filter thing with mine. Changed it out for a water filter; FL1A seemed to let too many fines through.
 

Everlearn

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One thing that’ll happen in the sump are a couple of staggered height (6” then 5”) weirs that create a couple of settling areas for sludge & fines. Those I’ll make out of some polyethylene 1/2” stock I have on hand. The pump will be in the chamber opposite the drain into the sump to let stuff settle. There’s gonna be 10 gallons of solvent held in the sump. I think the 10 micron filter will be ok. It’s a resin bonded media. If not they make cartridges down to 1 micron. That filter holds almost 1/2 gallon by itself.
 

scotts90ranger

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I've been running Naptha in my HFT parts washer with stock pump for like 6 years... It's supposed to be a magnetic drive pump capable of doing it but for liability reasons they say non flammable unless something has changed...

That said, your setup will be far superior! I don't run the pump too often just dip a brush then run the pump to rinse, the stock filter does leave a LOT to be desired and if you try to add more to the inlet side it won't pull through it... I might go a bit more crazy when I get my shop built...
 

Everlearn

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I can’t leave anything the way it is. Almost a sickness. But it’ll be the last parts washer I’ll ever own, so might as well have what I want. I finally, after 50 years, have the shop I want. Next little project is a small parts tumbler......?
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Look for a used Branson or Omega ultrasonic cleaner. I bought a used Branson 5 gallon on eBay a few years ago. It's such a vast improvement over manual cleaning of small parts that it changes the way you work.
 

Josh B

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I did the oil.filter thing with mine. Changed it out for a water filter; FL1A seemed to let too many fines through.
FL1A is for the motor in my truck! The 96 has that and another number, maybe I'd better switch
 

Josh B

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One thing that’ll happen in the sump are a couple of staggered height (6” then 5”) weirs that create a couple of settling areas for sludge & fines. Those I’ll make out of some polyethylene 1/2” stock I have on hand. The pump will be in the chamber opposite the drain into the sump to let stuff settle. There’s gonna be 10 gallons of solvent held in the sump. I think the 10 micron filter will be ok. It’s a resin bonded media. If not they make cartridges down to 1 micron. That filter holds almost 1/2 gallon by itself.
That's a very slick setup there Ever
 

Everlearn

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Got all of the bits and pieces in for the parts washer project, got to spend a couple of hours on it this morning. My age, coupled with various maladies like arthritis, isn't being kind, especially now that cold weather is here. Anyway.......
I've built the controls, using relays to handle the high wattage loads like the pump and heater. I epoxied the project box that houses all the electricals to the bottom of the tank. Waiting for it to cure. I finished up the plumbing. Welded up a mounting bracket for the filter, installed the stick heater and the float switch. Made the weirs and bonded them in place with some solvent based caulk made for polyethylene. Just to be sure it was going to be OK to use and whether it would stand up to the solvent long term, I've had a bead smeared on a poly scrap soaking in the solvent for two weeks. It's held so far, no degradation.


pumpheaterfloat.JPG

Pump, stick heater and float switch. I used solvent resistant sealer around all penetrations, in addition to the gasketing that came with the bulkheads.


weirs2.JPG


Here are the weirs, made from polyethylene. I used a solvent based caulk to bond the weirs in place.





filter bracket.JPG


I welded up a bracket from 1" angle stock and some plate scrap. The filter is heavy enough, once it has solvent in it I wanted it to be secure and not flopping around.

filter front view.JPG


There's just enough clearance to take the sump lid off. A strap wrench will fit so I can change the filter, which I hope won't be any time soon........;-)
 
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adsm08

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When spring comes I may very well find myself doing this.


I did the oil.filter thing with mine. Changed it out for a water filter; FL1A seemed to let too many fines through.
Did you try a PL3001 or a PBL3001? Same threads, gasket, and case, but more media.
 

Everlearn

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When spring comes I may very well find myself doing this.
Ya, I wanted a full featured parts washer, but I didn't want to spend $700-1200. Even used ones with these features are really too expensive. I'll post a list of parts and sources when I'm done. When all is said and done, I'll have maybe $250 tops in it. Cool thing is if I should ever decide to upsize to a 40 gallon, all the stuff is easily taken off and moved.
 
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sgtsandman

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I like what you did.
 

Everlearn

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OK folks!! Pimped Out Parts Washer is done!! Got some time this morning to wrap up the control wiring and install the light. Filled it up with solvent, and man it's the SH*TZZZ!!!!! If my rotator cuff weren't screwed up, I'd give myself a pat on the back....:LOL: Everything works as anticipated. The float switch functions, cuts the heater off if the solvent is too low, and the stick heater took about 15 minutes to heat the solvent from 55 degrees to 100. Photos below:

IMG_5966.JPG


Here's the control box. Left to right the switches are Heater, Pump, and Light

IMG_5967.JPG


The rack at the bottom is out of the food service industry, it's a bun rack from Amazon

IMG_5968.JPG


Here's the LED flood light. 10w, off eBay. Left over from another project.

IMG_5972.JPG


Here's the wiring for the light. Used plastic split loom to neaten things up.

IMG_5970.JPG


Split loom covers the wires for the float switch and the stick heater.

IMG_5971.JPG


Drain and supply plumbing. Gonna put some P clamps on some of the lines to neaten them up.

IMG_5973.JPG


Heater works!! The temp controller is an Inkbird, under $20 on Amazon.......
 
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PetroleumJunkie412

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Ha! I use that exact controller to run my grow room. (carnivorous plants, btw)
 

roberob2025

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Would you mind posted a parts list of the parts you used? I really like this build and I'd like to copy it if you don't mind.
 

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