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Project Eco-Mod rat, sleeper, 4-banger, thing


Isk Stark

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U.S. Military - Veteran
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Location
The HillBilly
Vehicle Year
2002
Make / Model
Ford Ranger XLT
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Drop
5"
Tire Size
15
Just ordered the DJM lower arms. May need to get shorter shackles for the rear if it goes too low in the front.

Patched up the hole in the firewall left by the heater system with a sheet of metal. May need to tape some heat tape to the surface.

Closed up the truck bed by mounting 2x4s as the new tailgate. Finished it with boiled linseed oil.

Rat truck is coming along nice. I’m still undecided as to how to move forward with power: turbo or V8?

Edit: Turbo would be cheaper to make decent gains, but I always thought they were finicky when it came to tuning. V8 is enticing because as long as it's EFI, it seems like you could set it and forget it. Plus, a newer V8 from an F150 are a dime a dozen at the yard, and may actually be cheaper than all the turbo components needed for success. I'm going for what is called "Lowest Priced, Technically Acceptable."
 
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Busypees

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Toronro
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Ford Ranger
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Just read through your thread, awesome work so far!

The turbo vs V8 is a debate is a good one. A long time ago I wanted to turbo my duratec 2.3 so bad but unless you have the fab skills and tuning knowledge, it just doesnt make sense (in my opinion). A naturally aspirated engine will always be more reliable and I think cheaper in the long run especially if you pick it from a salvage yard or buy a wrecked vehicle and part out what you dont use.
 

Isk Stark

Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
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Messages
84
Reaction score
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Points
18
Location
The HillBilly
Vehicle Year
2002
Make / Model
Ford Ranger XLT
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Drop
5"
Tire Size
15
Just read through your thread, awesome work so far!

The turbo vs V8 is a debate is a good one. A long time ago I wanted to turbo my duratec 2.3 so bad but unless you have the fab skills and tuning knowledge, it just doesnt make sense (in my opinion). A naturally aspirated engine will always be more reliable and I think cheaper in the long run especially if you pick it from a salvage yard or buy a wrecked vehicle and part out what you dont use.
Oh hey, it's you!

I ran into your suspension vids on YouTube, very ASMR, much agreed about the NA engines. Although the sound of boost is attractive, I just want something reliable to hoon around in.
 

Blmpkn

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Southern maine
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2023
Make / Model
Ford Bronco
Engine Type
2.3 EcoBoost
Engine Size
2.3
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
2.5"
Tire Size
285/75/18
My credo
Its probably better to be self deprecating than self defecating.
Go turbo.

There's nothing like walking a vehicle driven by a "tHeReS nO RePlaCeMenT FoR DiSplAceMent" type of person with a vehicle that has a motor with.. half the displacement as theirs.

A turbo 4 can be more efficient than a N/A v8 too.. especially if you size the turbo for all out HP. A big enough turbo won't spool during your daily driving to-from work.. so you could still get 25-26 mpg.. but.. when you wanna take it to the track or whatever and REALLY put your foot down.. your 2.3 could make 2x what a lame ass 5.0 does without a bunch of work done to it.

If you want to do a v8 swap.. just do the right thing and go with an LS.

Sure.. everything is LS swapped.. BUT.. everything is LS swapped because the LS is the absolute undeniable KING for shit people like us (budget minded) like to do. Minimal investment, maximum power.

A junkyard 4.8/5.3 LS can be had for 200$ all day.. AND support 4 digit HP figures.

If you blow the thing up.... get a replacement motor for 200$.... and dial the boost back a hair.

No stupid ford v8 can come close to being in the same league as what those dummys at GM created.

Coyotes sound like Satan belching, sure.... but its still a trash motor compared to the outdated cam in bank nonsense that is the LS.
 

Isk Stark

Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Sep 28, 2017
Messages
84
Reaction score
50
Points
18
Location
The HillBilly
Vehicle Year
2002
Make / Model
Ford Ranger XLT
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Drop
5"
Tire Size
15
-new tie rods inner and outer
-wheel bearings and hubs/rotors
-new lower arms
-new upper arms
-Summit 2 chamber muffler with side exit
-Roush rear sway bar (courtesy of @laser3kw)

Need to lower the rear 2 inches with some lowering blocks.

89F119DE-015E-4D7F-90ED-74F678FDE402.jpeg

6CCFF735-EB7D-4145-8C02-FDB557F3D141.jpeg

120EEAFF-E674-4FA7-8522-736E236C1AD0.jpeg


The sway bar was easy to install. Would’ve been much easier if that darn fuel tank wasn’t in the way.

Got revved at by a lowered S10. It seems people are starting to notice the ‘02 Ford truck (as opposed to the classic ‘32 Ford truck).

I don’t like those mirrors. Not very hot rod. Very modern and gay. I like the 80s Bronco or Ranger mirrors more. The junk yard didn’t have any candidates, unfortunately.
 
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Isk Stark

Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Sep 28, 2017
Messages
84
Reaction score
50
Points
18
Location
The HillBilly
Vehicle Year
2002
Make / Model
Ford Ranger XLT
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Drop
5"
Tire Size
15
I’ve gotten her stance just about the way I like it now with the 2” blocks added. I don’t think I need a notch kit, but it’s too early to tell. I also prefer the tailgate the way Ford intended it to be.

Driver side: F 27.5” / R 27.25”
Pass side: F 28” / R 28”

Measurements are a lot closer than what it started out as.

17AF7B4D-F813-41A0-829F-7BBC35A4B3E1.jpeg


Glory to God!
 

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