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Project Papa J


Freshmeat

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Weird about the overflow/washer container.
LMC lists replacements for all except the 1993 / 1994. Wondering if one for a 1995 would work.
They list one on page 114 of their Ranger catalog.
Grumpaw
I saw that. My plan was to get to the yard when I see a 1995 pop up and see how it looks. I've got $20 that says I can make it work... and if not, I have a Hobart 220 that could assist with mounting. Haha
 


Freshmeat

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2WD
Weird about the overflow/washer container.
LMC lists replacements for all except the 1993 / 1994. Wondering if one for a 1995 would work.
They list one on page 114 of their Ranger catalog.
Grumpaw
So after doing some digging, the '95 unit is a lot "fatter", so it'll hit the air box on the '94.

I'm not at all opposed to converting over to the '95 air box so I can run the newer overflow/washer bottle. Just need to catch one at the junk yard. It's been doing fine without the overflow so far and I haven't even had to top it off, really.

Last week I installed the Skyjacker 132X springs up front as well as a set of ProComp 3000 series shocks and that made a HUGE improvement in tightening up the ride, then I drove it to the shop and installed the 31x10.50R15 Toyo AT2s I had stacked in the garage. I also put in a set of Weathertech rain guards so I can have it parked for a few days at a time without getting that "old truck smell" all over again.

The springs gave me 2.75* positive camber, so I ordered the Moog camber bushings to correct them, but I won't be able to get to that until after a big wheeling event we have this coming weekend.
 

Freshmeat

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See if this works... I figure I’m well overdue for an updated pic...

Between the new coils and the 31s it sits pretty much exactly how I wanted. I’m looking into leaf fitment to try to run a newer set of springs, but will simply replace the bushings in these if needed.

Next move is to get the A/C functional, then swap out the 3_54 7.5” with a 4L10 8.8” rear end to make up for the tire size.
 

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Freshmeat

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Made a bit of progress in recent weeks...

We swapped out the 7.5” with 3.45s for a Ranger 8.8” with 4.10s. It’s open diff, 28-spline, and drums, but I’m fine with that. I don’t need 31-splines for a street driver and I’ll toss in a TrueTrac later for better traction in the yard. It’s the much bigger of the two drum options, so it stops way better than before. We also added a 1” block I had laying around to knock out the ever so subtle Cali lean.

Yesterday the personalized antique plate “PAPA J” showed up. I’ve never been one for vanity plates, but this one really fits!

I was hoping to post a couple photos of the work, but I keep getting server errors. Maybe next time!
 

Freshmeat

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Doubt anyone still checks in, but it’s still kicking. Somehow. About 8mo ago I pulled the whole front suspension and replaced all the bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, and brakes. It was all original (except brakes), nearly 30yo and guessing around 240k (we don’t know how many miles were actually on it when my grandfather passed).

It’s been more reliable than my 2017 Yukon which had a new engine installed at 97k and now a new transmission at 132k as well as my 2000 F350 which goes for a 4R100 rebuild this week. In the F350’s defense, it’s clicking in close to 360k and was ready for a rebuild when I bought it over two years ago.

Anyway… last week I cannonballed out to Houston and picked up a’93 Supercab with 3.0, M5OD, and electric BW1354. My initial thinking was to body swap it, but I think I’m going to swap the drivetrain then build the HP D44 and 9” in the shed with 4.88s and swap them in with a bunch of Duff “easy button” parts. I already did coilovers and links on my YJ so I kinda want to keep this simpler.

Today I’ll be repairing things like wheel cylinders on the 93 (so I can fix the drivability issues before swapping the drivetrain) and begin stripping the extras that I plan to keep butwon’t need for drivetrain testing.

I’m thinking I’ll get it all running properly in the ‘93… then pull it out, all new gaskets, seals, clutch kit, etc… drop it in the ‘94… leave the tcase non-functional while I build out the axles… then rip out the suspension and have some fun.

This is the last non-4x4 vehicle I own and I won’t be able to say that for much longer…
 

Shran

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So you're eventually going to solid axle swap the Papa J truck if I'm reading this right? I'm kinda surprised they made a 2wd STX, I haven't seen one of those.

I have my grandpa's F150 - once I get through a couple other projects I am going to do a frame off restoration on it. Your comment on giving your truck back to your dad made me think of when I stored the F150 at my parents house back in around 2007-8... I got it back with bald tires and a bunch of big hail dents. Love my parents but I might not leave vehicles there again 😂
 

Freshmeat

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2WD
So you're eventually going to solid axle swap the Papa J truck if I'm reading this right? I'm kinda surprised they made a 2wd STX, I haven't seen one of those.

I have my grandpa's F150 - once I get through a couple other projects I am going to do a frame off restoration on it. Your comment on giving your truck back to your dad made me think of when I stored the F150 at my parents house back in around 2007-8... I got it back with bald tires and a bunch of big hail dents. Love my parents but I might not leave vehicles there again 😂
Hahahaha! Yeah, it was a similar fate but rat damage for me. Not something they could have controlled. No big deal.

I’ll be converting this to 4x4, yes. I have my personal/emotional reasons for making the change after all these years and I look forward to the “build”. In quotes because I don’t expect to actually need the welder, so it’ll be as much of a build as a typical late model Jeep. Just cooler. 😂
 

Freshmeat

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Went and had the windows tinted this week. It’ll be a while still before I put the A/C back together and trying to daily this in 100*+ temps with clear windows is BRUTAL.
Took advantage of the latest ceramic tint technology that supposedly blocks 95%+ heat (I don’t remember the specifics) and it has helped tremendously. I had them lay some 70% across the windshield to help there as well. You can’t tell it’s tinted, but it is a game changer when driving westbound in the evenings.
Donor wheels and tires have been swapped over since tires are new.
New bed rail caps should arrive Wednesday, then I can put the tie down rails back on.
New spark plugs going in this week.

I also Gorilla taped (don’t worry, this is a patch- this tube is as good as trash once I swap engines) the intake tube on the donor truck since it had countless holes melted through it. That cleaned up the drivability in a big way, but still needs some tweaking before I’m willing to call it good.

I’ll post some updated pics later just for giggles. I’m not a fan of the 15x8 with -30mm offset, but everything clears so it’s good enough until the lug pattern changes.
 

Freshmeat

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Okay, so the tint gave me the itch to get the a/c working again. It’s been torn apart for 13 years, now.
Ordered a kit with condenser, compressor, drier, orifice tube, o-rings, and PAG oil. Added an evaporator core, hoses, switches, and the refrigerant.
I thought the condenser would be the worst part, but the evap kicked my whole ass. I had to pull the driver motor mount to let the engine shift enough to clear the evap cover plate. Scrubbed it down and laid a layer of DEI 010468 self-adhesive heat-reflective tape.
Then the sickness kicked in. Or so I thought. It ended up being a valuable maneuver. I opted to remove the entire a/c box because I needed to patch a significant hole due to a heater resistor fire ages ago… then I DEI taped the entire box because what better things are there to do on a Saturday night beyond spending five hours trimming pieces of tape to cover an whole a/c box.
Then I had the thought… the box came out easier than the cover plate. So I tested it, and I will 100% pull the entire box before I try to tackle that cover plate in place again. I’ll reassemble the unit w/ evap core and heater resistor, install it, then bolt the fan back up.
All the work I’m putting into this, I better be getting ice cubes out of my vents. 🤣
 

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Freshmeat

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(Ignore this post.)
 

PetroleumJunkie412

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Give 'yer balls a tug. Fight me.
Okay, so the tint gave me the itch to get the a/c working again. It’s been torn apart for 13 years, now.
Ordered a kit with condenser, compressor, drier, orifice tube, o-rings, and PAG oil. Added an evaporator core, hoses, switches, and the refrigerant.
I thought the condenser would be the worst part, but the evap kicked my whole ass. I had to pull the driver motor mount to let the engine shift enough to clear the evap cover plate. Scrubbed it down and laid a layer of DEI 010468 self-adhesive heat-reflective tape.
Then the sickness kicked in. Or so I thought. It ended up being a valuable maneuver. I opted to remove the entire a/c box because I needed to patch a significant hole due to a heater resistor fire ages ago… then I DEI taped the entire box because what better things are there to do on a Saturday night beyond spending five hours trimming pieces of tape to cover an whole a/c box.
Then I had the thought… the box came out easier than the cover plate. So I tested it, and I will 100% pull the entire box before I try to tackle that cover plate in place again. I’ll reassemble the unit w/ evap core and heater resistor, install it, then bolt the fan back up.
All the work I’m putting into this, I better be getting ice cubes out of my vents. 🤣
Screenshot_20230709_110927.jpg




Furthermore, what uh.... what exactly am I looking at here?
 

Uncle Gump

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I'm not sure we really want to know...
 

Freshmeat

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2WD
Furthermore, what uh.... what exactly am I looking at here?
That’s the floor of my garage. It originally had carpet, but with my grinding and welding, it was a fire hazard so I pulled it, then didn’t care rnough to strip the glue.
 

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