Radius arm bushing on TTB quick question

[Eddo Rogue]

Hey all,

I am dreading doing the radius arm bushings , and was wondering if instead of taking everything apart at the knuckle end, I could just grind out the rivets on the bushing bracket and pull it off the frame to swap the bushing, and then just replace the rivets with bolts after?

Also if you would like to suggest rubber vs polyurethane I am still torn on this decision as well. Leaning towards poly...

Cheers-Eddo

 

[Shran]

You can definitely do that. I guess I don't think that's the easy way, to me it's easier to pull the spring, loosen both pinch bolts and the radius arm should pull out of the crossmember fairly easily. Being in CA you shouldn't have much rust to deal with, that's the main thing on those pinch bolts. Do one side at a time.

I hate poly bushings. Usually I use the rubber ones from O'Reilly, most parts stores just sell poly.

 

[Josh B]

I've never done it on a 4WD, but once on a 73 E300 one ton van. Once I got done it didn't seem like a big deal.
I had some good heavy rubber too from somewhere, might have been roofing rubber maybe. Installed it between most the rub points and over and under the springs

 

[franklin2]

Someone had drilled the rivets out and put bolts in on a f150 I had long ago. When I went to replace the bushings again, I appreciated that.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

You can definitely do that. I guess I don't think that's the easy way, to me it's easier to pull the spring, loosen both pinch bolts and the radius arm should pull out of the crossmember fairly easily. Being in CA you shouldn't have much rust to deal with, that's the main thing on those pinch bolts. Do one side at a time.

I hate poly bushings. Usually I use the rubber ones from O'Reilly, most parts stores just sell poly.

Meh idk that seems like more work than me, I would rather grind metal than turn big bolts. I grind metal anyways at work, plenty of tool options.

Despite being in CA, things still rust...Its more of a dry rust.

Why do you hate poly bushings? Besides the squeakier and rougher ride...

 

[4x4junkie]

My experience with poly bushings overall has been good, although in the very beginning I did have red color ones that came as part of a suspension lift, which they only lasted about 4 years before starting to crumble. The black poly ones I replaced them with have lasted far longer (I guess the black pigment somehow protects the urethane better from UV rays). I also have extended arms, I don't know if that might play a role in their longevity (them not being flexed up & down quite as far).

I also think it's more work to grind out a bunch of rivets than to remove the coil nut and loosen the radius arm bolts (at least provided the threaded bung inside the beam hasn't broke loose, I did have to deal with that once). But if you're used to grinding steel, then go for it. Either way, it can be done (and if you ever do a suspension lift or something in the future, then removal of the rivets will already be out of the way).

 

[franklin2]

I use poly bushings also, but there is a reason the factory doesn't use them. They are noisy. Nothing objectionable, but you will get a little more road noise, and a little more drivetrain noise through the harder bushings. Everything is a trade-off.

 

[Shran]

Meh idk that seems like more work than me, I would rather grind metal than turn big bolts. I grind metal anyways at work, plenty of tool options.

Despite being in CA, things still rust...Its more of a dry rust.

Why do you hate poly bushings? Besides the squeakier and rougher ride...

I don't feel that they last as long as rubber and they are noisy.

 

[Josh B]

I can't recall how but somehow raised the truck by the coil spring and released everything holding it, then lowered the frame onto a jack stand and then released the coil. Going back was just a reversal. I was actually surprised at how well it went