Ranger Front wheel bearing 2WD

[Lord Corn]

Hello all, a bit of story time.

Had the 2004 ranger for about 3 weeks now, been running good for less than $1,000 and I'm still happy with the purchase. I was driving to town about 15 miles away, and started to hear a howl at 60mph. Normally the howl doesn't start until 72mph so it was odd but I had been assuming it was a tire issue since they had original balance weights and only 2/32". I wrote it off and continued running errands. On the way back from town I heard an odd sound from, what I thought was the right rear, and I turned down(off) the radio to see if it was music or the car. I heard an intermittent... release of compressed gas? It was like someone trying to use a can of air duster like a semi auto. A few seconds of silence, a halfway thought of maybe it fixed itself, and then a few not good noises, and HARD drag to the right side of the road.

I assumed the tire had popped, no biggie (spare was fixed so that's cool), pulled off, jumped out, looked at the tire and... it's holding pressure. Well shoot. I glance inspected, suspension was good, so I limped it at 25 to the nearest county road. It drove well enough that half mile, so I took gravel back home about 6 miles at 25mph. During this drive I had the occasional squeak and a very rare roaring sound that was as if you were standing at the base of a waterfall with a train going by at the same time. I knew I was doing damage but I was 6 miles from home in nowhere land, a tow would probably have been late late late or the next day and astronomical on the bill. Didn't have time for that.

Got it home, wanted to inspect the tire, bearing, and brakes since suspension was good and the howling was connected to a rotational part somehow. I put the RF up on the jack, grabbed the tire, and had about 1/4" of play in the tire. Ordered new seals and bearings, got them, started work. That outer bearing and washer are welded in there at this point. I am trying everything I can to free them up, no use. Heat, hammer, more heat, nothing. I'm afraid I will have to get the air hammer and grinder out soon. Either way I will start working on it again (I gave up that night when I couldn't get the bearing out) tomorrow morning, so you'll all have an update then.

 

[Dirtman]

Hate to be a bummer but if the bearing is seized in there that bad you probably need a new spindle and rotor anyway so might not really be of any benefit to getting it off. Just remove the whole thing from the ball joints and tie rod end.

 

[pjtoledo]

used spindles are cheap.
car-parts.com

 

[Lord Corn]

Hate to be a bummer but if the bearing is seized in there that bad you probably need a new spindle and rotor anyway so might not really be of any benefit to getting it off. Just remove the whole thing from the ball joints and tie rod end.

Yeah I would like to try one more time but as pjtoledo said, they are cheap. $22 here with $2 entry. $30 bucks with gas, done and done.

 

[Dirtman]

It was probably pre-loaded wrong last time it was serviced, after its seated I believe the torque spec is only 10-15 INCH pounds. I've seen alot of guys run the nuts down like it was a sealed hub assembly.

 

[97RangerXLT]

the quickest way to tell if your bearings are going after you hear the howl is to go feel the hub of the suspect bearing. if you hear a sizzling sound and you leave half of the skin on your hand on the hub, that bearing is likely shot. other than that, it shouldn't feel much more than lukewarm.

AJ

 

[Grumpaw]

the quickest way to tell if your bearings are going after you hear the howl is to go feel the hub of the suspect bearing. if you hear a sizzling sound and you leave half of the skin on your hand on the hub, that bearing is likely shot. other than that, it shouldn't feel much more than lukewarm.

AJ

Make sure you've had at least a 6 pack before you grab that hub.
OUCH!!!
Grumpaw

 

[Dirtman]

To replace the spindle, rotor, and bearings on a 2wd is less than 100 bucks. It's so cheap theres no point guessing.

 

[renton]

The front wheel bearings on the 2wd are the weak point. I’ve had them get fried in less then two years.

 

[8thTon]

It’s hard to imagine the bearing getting hot enough that the washer gets fused on. I think something else is going on.

 

[Lord Corn]

Okay, update. Some part in the wheel bearing assembly had glued the washer to the bearing. After cutting a notch in the hub/rotor, I was able to pry the washer away. I found the outer bearing cage smashed between the washer and bearing (perhaps the gluing material?) and the bearing would not come off. I continued to cut away and chiseled chunks off of the rotor and bearing. Eventually the rollers dropped out and it slid off, but the inner section was welded to the shaft. I decided that, after I marred everything up and gotten nowhere, that a new spindle would be best. I'll be getting that tomorrow and will put it together on Thursday or Monday depending on other things.

I cut into the shaft after to see how secure it was on there, and I could not even tell where the shaft ended and the bearing started.

 

[Dirtman]

And that my friends is how fricton welding works.

 

[Lord Corn]

Well, another update. The spindle I had gotten ahold of... it was for the smaller sized rotors. Major marker is that the brake pad carriage bolts are closer to the shaft center. One bolt will fit, but the carriage will make contact with the rotor. The dust guard 8mm bolt heads also touched the rotor, which was the first indicator it might not fit right. I was planning on replacing tank straps on a dakota today, instead I will finish this and do the other side since I have the rotor/bearings/pads for both sides. In the process of removing it the last time I ruined the tie rod end so I'll be getting two of those on Monday.