Ranger No Crank (Replace Wiring?)

[backporch]

Battery is at 12.3 v and is 2.5 years old

 

[RonD]

Reading like a 5/6 year old battery, is it a "name" brand, or what they had when you needed a battery?

When you get engine started test alternator voltage at battery, should be 14.5-14.9v just after start up
Then after a few minutes of running it should read 13.5-13.8v
If it stays above 14volts then voltage regulator is stuck and is/has "cooked" that battery

Car Batteries are pretty finicky, they have many thin plates so they can release high amps quickly, starter motors need 60-80amps, and they can do it in COLD temps
But because of the thin plates they can't be drained very far before causing damage, or overcharged to long or it will cause damage

Deep cycle batteries have fewer and thicker plates, they can be drained down to almost 0 volts, but can't release high amps as fast, especially COLD, also they don't charge up real fast, they like slow re-charging, but also react poorly to overcharging

 

[Dirtman]

Battery is at 12.3 v and is 2.5 years old

Bad battery. Like ron mentioned, el cheapo brand advance and autozone batteries dont last very long. 2.5 years is about right for one of those. You could have damaged the battery in several ways. Letting it drain down too far, letting it sit drained in cold weather, improper charging etc can all damage a battery. Sometimes you can also have volts and not enough amps if the plates get heavily sulfated.

Bottom line. Get yourself a new battery.

 

[backporch]

I believe it is still under warranty will look to get a replacement, it is a Duracell

 

[Dirtman]

Most parts store batteries are 1 year warranty and pro rated for up to 3. You may get 20-30 bucks back if your lucky.

 

[backporch]

If I do short out the two solenoid posts and the motor cranks, that points to a different problem, right?

I may give that a try before I take anything out of the truck.

 

[RonD]

It would mean the starter activation circuit wasn't working

Battery------ignition switch(in START)------fuse--------neutral switch-----starter relay-------starter solenoid(on starter)

 

[backporch]

I was able to replace the battery under warranty ( although they said it didn't fail a test, just a low charge) and put a new negative wire clamp on. Same thing... Click.

I think I need to look into replacing my new starter.

 

[RonD]

Yes, that would be my next step, new just means "never tested" now-a-days, not "it works", unless you buy a Ford replacement, $$$$, you will get an untested part

 

[backporch]

Took out the starter and it bench tested ok. Any suggestions for replacing the positive battery terminal wire to the starter

 

[RonD]

Did you test the starter relay/solenoid on the starter motor?

Or just the motor part?

 

[backporch]

I put jumper cables from the battery to the starter big lug and case. I jumpeted the large lug to the smaller solenoid connections and it clicked and the starter spun.

 

[RonD]

That reads like relay/solenoid works as well as motor

And have you tested the wire that hooks to the smaller solenoid connection, it should have 12v with key in START position


The Positive(and Negative) battery cable is often specific for the YEAR of the vehicle, for length, and there is often a smaller wire for the Fuse box connection

 

[backporch]

Small wire has power when key is in crank. I think was about 10-11 v.
Wasn’t sure the Large wire’s gauge and if anyone buys aftermarket cables for this. I know the original harness clipped to the motor mount. Would look for an easier route for a replacement/additional wire

 

[RonD]

Should read Battery voltage 12.3 to 12.8volts

Unless you test it when start motor is spinning, which would mean start motor is working so no need to test that wire, lol.

So yes could be bad positive cable or negative cable, both are needed to get full voltage