Rear Brake Line Leak

[RangerJoey]

Thanks! I'm ordering some line wrenches now off Amazon. I'm on the fence about flaring the lines myself. I want to do it, but for the price of a decent tool kit, I think Napa or whoever really might be the way to go.

Odd question, but how heavy is the bed without the tailgate? Just wondering if it's something the wife wouldn't mind helping with or if I need a buddy to help out.

 

[Denisefwd93]

The double flare is made with a little insert in the end of the tubing. They come with new automotive flaring tool sets. but the inserts can be obtained separately I have one for 3/16" never used it. It's just easy to get pre-made sections.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/k-tool-international-3-16-in-flaring-tool-adapter-kti70061/25960303-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=25960303-P&adtype=pla&gclid=CjwKCAjwg_fZBRAoEiwAppvp-WELhCHumG9f3DBDrnKhamyAwokDAey4Y-sbYCA4vCKcHm6GM_9nyRoCJHMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[adsm08]

The bed can be picked up and moved around with just two people pretty readily, but three or four makes it better.

Definitely take the tailgate off, it is almost half the weight of the stripped bed.

 

[RangerJoey]

Hi Guys!

Sorry I haven't followed up, but it's not for lack of effort. I really wanted to remove the bed to see what I'm dealing with here, (and likely lead to a frame restore). I got off the saddle box. Then I took out the drop-in liner. I removed the tailgate. I took out the taillights. Then I started on those 6 bolts. Ouch. I'm not He-Man, but seriously? I have a 18" breaker bar with a 30" pipe. I removed 3 so far after letting a acetone/ATF solution soak for a bit. It's not just the force to "break" them, but each turn is a joke. I'm actually concerned about how I can manage to torque them back down.

So...supposed one was removing one of these bolts and heard a snap. How bad is this? Asking for a friend

 

[pjtoledo]

clean the threads up, they are 12mm x 1.75 if you use a die. once the bed is lifted off it will be easy to deal with the broken bolt.

 

[RangerJoey]

Well this is turning into a nightmare I have one bolt let near the front of the bed, (above the gas tank), and nothing I throw at it is budging. I'm fearing that one will snap too. So now from brake fluid on the axle to a leak by the tank to the bed issue. I've never used a die before, but would it make more sense to just buy 6 new bolts? And what's the best way to deal with the broken bolt? I have some of those cheap extractor things, but I'm not confident they'll be able to back out the detached piece.

Staying positive... seriously.

 

[Denisefwd93]

You probably aren't aware you have front brakes even if the back brakes leak.

You can you bolts drill new holes, you can use bolts with nuts, inconvenient but not impossible, It is a truck bed it's not a dining room table if you have a couple holes you can plug them up with sealer if you have to drill new holes.

you really should try just getting under the truck and looking at the leak I keep thinking it's loose connection, save taking the bed off for a bigger job.

 

[pjtoledo]

I broke 4 bolts taking a bed off this week. once the bolts are broken you can lift then bed straight up and remove it. then cut the speed nuts at the frame and the bolt remnants will simple fall out.

the speed nuts are hardened steel. most saw blades and files won't even scratch them, use a grinder or cut-off wheel.

 

[RangerJoey]

Hi All

Never meant to take a hiatus, but life…getting in the way of getting my baby up and running!

Anyway, this weekend, I jumped back into the swing of things and removed the bed, (still have a broken bolt in the frame). Immediately after removing it, I confirmed you guys were right about the steel brake line that runs over the driver’s side rear axle. It leaks, but only when pressure is applied. That is, it’s not sealed and fluid comes out the top of where the flange should meet up to the section that takes it over the rear axle:

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I tried tightening the coupler as much as possible, but the problem remains.


I really like the idea of your previous suggestions in terms of just buying a new piece and bending it, but from what I'm seeing, I suspect this line runs up to the master. So short of buying a kit and trying my hand at flanging, (never afraid to learn a new skill), should I just try and pull this line and replace the whole thing or simply try to remove a section and link a new line in?

Also, while the bed was off, I noticed something. It's like a cut line that runs along the driver's side of the frame. First photo shows the cut but the second photo shows how it hooks onto the frame.




Is that the original brake line or something?

 

[cstarbard]

That rusty line along the frame is definitely the original brake line that ran to the splitter hose, where you are showing the leak above.

It's an annoyance to fish the original broken line out because its clipped on in a few places as I recall so people always leave it. Every ranger I've had has had that main brake line replaced and I have always found the old, original rusty line still there next to the gas tank, plumbed to nothing

FYI, I have not found a replacement speed nut for the bed bolts in a hardware store yet, I assume it's metric. You can use long grade 8 bolts and nuts + washers with tons of anti-sieze to remount the bed. That's what I did since most of my bolts broke and I'd rather have a hex head than a torx bit to deal with in the bed anyway. There are lots of things for a wrench to bottom out on underneath the bed, removing my bed bolts (and nuts) is practically as easy as the stock setup

I'm sure a salvage yard would charge you next to nothing for bed bolts if you wanted to take some

You can usually remove the broken off end of bed bolt from the speed nut at the frame with vise grips and even a plumbers torch or penetrating fluid. The bolts rot away in the middle of their length, get weak, then snap off when you try to apply torque to them

Slather new bolts in never seize on the whole length of bolt, I know that sounds stupid but it really does slow the corrosion down.

Brake line repairs are not as scary as you'd think. I got a flaring tool and practiced on junk sections of 3/16" line and got good at making double flares before I attempted one, but it is definitely not rocket science

I would probably unthread the leaky fitting and inspect the threads to see if they are all cross threaded and messed up. If so you may have to replace the splitter hose- I'm sure all that will be obvious when you undo the fittings to get a look. You will also be able to see the flare on the line and see if it was poorly done. Maybe get piece of 3/16" line with 3/8 SAE fitting for 3/16" brake line at an auto parts store and take a look at the flares, will give you reference of what a proper double flare looks like

If you can't tighten the fitting to stop the leak, I wonder if someone used a metric not SAE fitting and it only feels tight because it's cross threading. Even if it has the wrong fitting etc., you don't have to replace that new line all the way up to the master cylinder to fix your issue. If you are going to work on brake lines definitely buy a small tubing cutter suitable for a 3/16" diameter line. Very important. You can then cut the fresh line coming down from the master off wherever its easy to work on, beyond the rear of the gas tank, and re flare with new fittings and even threaded couplers (Do NOT use compression fittings, many states have laws against it and it's not the best idea anyway) to bypass a bad part of the line

 

[RangerJoey]

Hey!

Just wanted to finally follow up and say THANK YOU to all of you! Brake fluid seems to stay in the lines. Mind. Blown!

In short, the best way to do this would've likely been replacing the hole line back to the main unit. But since this was a brand new line and short of rethreading everything, etc, I picked up a little in-line flaring tool, (not sure if I can reference it, but it's on Amazon for like $15). On my very second attempt, I was able to get the flare in there correctly. And there's zero percent chance I'd have any shot at that without a) taking the bed off and b) everyone's help.

Just wanted to say thanks!