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Rear brakeline nightmare on a 1995 Extended Cab 2WD. In a serious bind. Any help is appreciated.


Cyb3rst0rm

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So all of 4 days before I'm supposed to be moving, my rear brakeline on my 1995 4.0 Extended Cab 2WD has failed at this (very rusty) junction on the metal line side.




Since I'm nearly broke from moving expenses I need to get this truck up and running as cheaply as possible so I've decided to disconnect the line to the rear brakes from the main cylinder and cap it off. I can restore the rear brakes later.




I just need to know which of these 3 ports goes to the rear, and what size it is. I also need to know if its a double flare fitting or a bubble flair. I checked my Hanes manual but I can't find anything useful.

Another post said that they believe it's a 3/4th inch double flared fitting but they hadn't verified. Can anyone confirm this? or tell me which of those 3 goes to the rear end? I apologize if these are stupid questions but I'm fairly mechnically uninclined. I just know that if I plug the leak in a hydraulic system, it should work. I'm planning to plug it with a brake line terminator like this: https://www.belmetric.com/inch-c-17_564_566/ble105b-brake-end-316-tube-3824-thread-p-3073.html?zenid=iej3r87lomofb1gpiahg69erh6

Thanks in advance. I'm in a pretty serious bind right now so any help on identifying what parts I need to cap that off is appreciated.
 


adsm08

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This is a terrible idea on many levels. Let me start with the biggest problem. The part you linked to is not a "line terminator" it is a line nut, it is hollow, and won't plug anything because it has a great big hole through it for a piece of brake line to pass through.

Next big problem is that while it is true the front brakes do most of the work, this is because most of the weight is over the front axle. If you are moving, hauling, towing, carrying things in the bed, that ratio can shift until the rear is doing up to 50% of the work. The rear brakes also play a huge role in the vehicle's longitudinal stability during braking. The rear brakes engage first to put drag on the rear, before the front starts engaging. This helps keep it from flipping end over end. For a safe experiment to demonstrate this principle get a kid's wagon and take it down a hill twice. Do it the first time walking in front of it trying to control it, and then again with the wagon in front of you, with the handle at the back. Which is easier to control?

You need to get the rear hose, some line, and repair this correctly from the first available joint in the line. Ford generally uses double flares everywhere except the ABS unit, and on some vehicles at the master cylinder. You are probably looking at a bubble flare in that second picture.


The only thing I can find about your plan that isn't horribly concerning to me is that you don't appear to live anywhere near me or anyone I care about who you might kill.
 

Cyb3rst0rm

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I plan to fix it correctly as soon as I'm able. But I have $20 to my name right now, and I'm moving 45 miles in 4 days. I don't have the skill to perform those repairs either and I can't afford outright to pay someone to do it at the moment because of moving expenses.

Also, I did call the company that makes those fittings and they confirmed it is a solid cap-type fitting with no pass through hole. Its also worth noting I don't haul or tow anything. This truck is just a commuter I bought for $500 (which arguebaly hasn't been worth $5, given that it leaks every fluid possible, burns oil, runs like shit, has no functional brakelights, has a broken off rear shock mount, has a shattered windshield, stalls at idle...... the list goes on)
 
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adsm08

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If you are moving, and not hauling anything in the truck itself how important is it that this truck makes this trip right now, under its own power?
 

Cyb3rst0rm

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If you are moving, and not hauling anything in the truck itself how important is it that this truck makes this trip right now, under its own power?

It still my only ride. Anywhere. I don't get paid for another week and a half, I just want it fixed enough to bum around at 35-55MPH on my 5-6 mile drive to work until I get paid, then I'll let Plaza Tire sort it out from there. The eBrake is still there if shit hits the fan. I just wanted to clarify I'm not actually using it to haul stuff currently. My understanding is that it will probably cost around $150 to get it fixed. I was told the tube nut needs to be replaced, and the metal line reflared and the rubber line on the other side replaced entirely. I guess its supposedly not that hard or time consuming of a job if you actually know what your doing.
 

adsm08

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All of that is correct.

If you are very careful you may get away with it.
 

Lanciadave

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Wouldn't a compression fitting be just as cheap as a cap for the line? And a little safer while moving
 

Cyb3rst0rm

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So I actually ended up wrecking the truck and killing two people in a rainstorm because the rear end kicked out sideways.

Naw, just kidding. Contrary to everyone telling me capping the rear brakes off was stupid, I drove it for 5000 miles after this and messed the driveshaft up and several damaged the motor overheating it because it idled so high. I even drove it through a terrible snowstorm without the rear brakes using the ebrake to actuate the rear drums. Sold it to some dude for parts for $250.

Currently looking for another $500 Ranger to beat the tar out of. That's two I've more or less killed. Arguably both were absolute pieces of junk so I don't care.
 
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JMF661

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Hahaha, you’re wild man.
 

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