Sport trac 8.8


fastpakr

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I have a line on an 8.8/4.10 limited slip out of a 2002 Sport Trac. I know it's got drum brakes. Is it the same as the 91-94 Explorer axles? Trying to make sure what I'm getting into if swapping it into my 99. Thanks!
 
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Mac

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Found this at Explorerfroum. Doesn't mention width or other items.
What year ford explorers do I look for as a donor for 31 spline and disc brakes? To get rear disc brakes and 31-spline axle, you need to look for a 1995 to 2001 Explorer or Mountaineer. Earlier years use drum brakes and may be 28-spline. Different vehicles may have the wrong bolt pattern, width, spline count, or brakes. A 2-door Sport Explorer may be a donor past the 2001 cut off. Also, Explorer SportTracs with production dates of August 19, 2002 through June 29, 2005 are equipped with 31-spline axles and rear disc brakes and are exactly what was in the previously listed 95-2001 Explorer. Before Aug 19, 2002, the Sport Tracs were equipped with the smaller 28-spline 8.8 axle shafts and used drum brakes. After June 29, 2005, Sport Tracs were produced with an Independent rear as found on 2002 regular Explorers.* Sport-Trac
 

fastpakr

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Crap. Didn't realize it was 28 spline. Thanks for digging that up. More than I found in a quick search on my phone.
 

fastpakr

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Hmm. Everything I'm looking up is mixed on the 28/31 spline question. I think I'm going to chance it. The price for the axle plus springs is hard to refuse.
 

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I think that quote has more errors in it than it has accurate information. :rolleyes:

It should be 31 spline unless someone replaced it with a Ranger axle (which I s'pose could be a possibility if someone did a SOA conversion and was too lazy to find someone who could move the perches on the original axle). I've never seen credible info myself that a 28 spline 8.8 was ever used in Explorers.

But for your own comfort you can identify it as 31 spline just by examining the axle tubes.

A 31-spline axle will have 3.25" diameter tubes all the way until about 2" before the backing plate bracket where it then tapers down to approx 2-7/8".

A 28 spline axle has 3" tubes at the pumpkin... At the mid-point before the spring perch it tapers down to just over 2-3/4", and then right before the backing plate it tapers again to approx 2-5/8".
 

fastpakr

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Picked it up today.
Rear axle drum to drum, leaf springs, driveshaft, two front leather seats, center floor console, white instrument cluster, shifter, and two switches for $220.
 

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Looks like it's been sitting awhile with water-contaminated oil in it.

If the gear itself and the bearings seem OK, I'd say get some old junky flat-head screwdrivers or something and chip & scrape as much of it off as you can, then maybe follow with a stiff-bristled wire brush or wire wheel.

Turn the axle over the other way so the debris doesn't fall down inside the housing.
 

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why isn't the ring gear rusted too? they were attached and submerged in the same lube??? any rust on the diff cover plate? I would thoroughly clean and inspect everything.

that looks like a job for the liquid rust removers, but that requires removing the tone ring for soaking. maybe some of the jelly type rust removers if you don't want to take it apart.
 

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I'll give it a more thorough inspection tomorrow but that was the only major corrosion I noticed. Anything on the ring gear looked very minor and everything rolled very smoothly.
 

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Question...
The article on our tech pages about rebuilding a Traction Lok involves removing the carrier (the second section that discusses the carbon fiber kit, which I ordered for this axle).
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/rebuild_tractionlock.shtml

1) Why is this necessary?
2) Regardless of the necessity... If I can pull it out and trust that the position won't change since I'll be reinstalling the same gears and carrier, couldn't I just yank it and clean the ring on a bench (or just install a new ring)?
 

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That's a good question. I just read through that procedure and it looks to me like you can do it with the carrier in the housing. Just pull the axles so you can get the side gears out.

Give it a try.

edit; I just read that again and saw a line talking about getting the S-spring out. Apparently, that may not come out past the ring gear, depending on gear ratio. With 4.10 gears, I'm pretty sure that will be an issue for you. Of course, you never know until you open it up and look.
 
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fastpakr

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You can definitely remove the side gears and spiders from the carrier with it installed in the axle. Did that last night before reading through everything. Unless that changes with new components vs worn clutch plates, I don't understand why you'd need to have the carrier out. That said, it might simplify my issue with the tone ring.
 

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I went ahead and pulled the carrier last night. Hoping to get a chance to clean the ring over the next couple of days. Worst case I'll try to remove it from the ring gear and clean it separately (and/or replace as needed).
 

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typical on the tone ring for rust belt. since you yanked it may as well wire wheel it.

the shit steel the tone ring is made of rots like that when exposed to the air sitting for long periods.

hard to even find usable ttb parts these days. but 8.8 stuff is plentiful.
 


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